I understand all the info about cams, turbos, manifolds, and such. But here is my problem. My project is an 87' (so Maf) TPI 350. I need to know about the stuff no one ever talks about. IE Fuel management, Prom burning, Injectors, oil lines, can my computer process this, fuel pump, pressure regulator,and other things maybe never mentioned that is very important to a successful turbo install.
What do I need to make this project a success?

 

You are very correct. The items you mentioned are some of the most important items, and are not commonly discussed. I can't help you with custom computer tuning (I have never done it- yet).

Here's what I did for my TT IROC, which I feel was a successful project. It is not a super fast car (Best 1/4 mile ET 12.40, best MPH 117.0), but it was a budget project using junkyard turbos, and was my first turbo build. It is an 89 IROC L98 (so it is MAF):

*Oil feeds- T'd off at 3/8"NPT fiitting just above the filter, retaining the oil sending unit. I then ran -4 AN line and T'd off again to each turbo
*Oil drains- the oil return is even more prone to mistakes than the feeds. Make sure the drain is as near to vertical as possible, enters the oil pan above the oil level, and maintains an ID of no less then 7/16" (larger is prefereable). Even a turbine oil seal in perfect condition will leak oil if the oil cannot drain away from teh bearing housing quickly enough.
*Fuel system- stock MAF, computer, and PROM. Upgraded to 24pph Ford SVO fuel injectors, and installed a Votech Super FMU (rising rate fuel pressure regulator- ramps fuel pressure quickly as boost comes in to maintain proper AF ratio). Also added a Vortech 50/70 in-line fuel pump to help the stock pump feed the fuel at the high pressures/flow rates the RRFPR requires (I'm around 90psi fuel pressure at 6psi boost)
*Ignition- MSD BTM (boost retard), and MSD 6AL for spark. Adjusted base timing to stock 6°BTDC.
*Tuning- I used a WB O2 sensor to measure the AFR, and used my ear and a data-recording scan tool to make sure it stayed out of detonation.

Certainly nothing fancy, but a relatively easy and inexpensive route to take if you are going for a mild turbo build. In the future I want to learn PROM burning to hopefully take full advantage of my system.

 

Ok, so I have alot of questions for you.
1) did you have a problems or see restrictions from the MAF?
2) any mods to the engine(like roller rockers,springs,valves, and such)
3)TPI mods (removing the walls behind TB, air foil, porting, runners, and such)
4) did you use a boost controller
5) your best time.. Auto or Manuel? any tire spin?

 

A:

1) No. I actually put the MAF on the pressure side of the intake so I could 'blow' through it. A restriction on the pressure side is easier to overcome than on the turbo inlet. It may have a very small pressure drop across the MAF at full load, but I'm betting it is very small. I have not tested the MAF specifically, but my entire system has only 2-2.5psi pressure drop from the compressor outlets to the intake manifold, including the two Ford Probe intercoolers.

2) Those times and power figures I quoted were on a stock engine- stock heads, valve/springs, and rockers. Stock camshaft even. I have since upgraded the valvesprings and installed 1.6 ratio roller rockers, but still using the stock camshaft. I also upgraded to T3/T4 turbos (T04E 57 trim compressor, Stage III .63A/R turbine), but I do not have any figures for those additions, as I just finished the upgrade this fall.

3) I removed the EGR shroud walls, and my car had an air-foil in it before the turbo install, so I used it. Other than that just some polishing and painting to make it look pretty.

4) No- just stock internal WG's that came with the Volvo turbos, set to 6psi. I plan to make my own 2 Stage boost controller in the future (6psi stage I, 10+psi for stage II). It is very easy, and cheap to make a remote controlled boost controller like TurboXS sells. I did it on my Turbocharged Z24- it's fun to flip the switch and feel the extra boost come in (just like a nitrous button)!

5) Tremec TKO 5 speed. The first time at the track was very cool (60°f), and was on street tires. I ran a few high 12's and low 13's with some tire spin. Most trap speeds were around115-116, my best was a very high 116, so I just rounded up. I was also shifting into 5th gear, because I was very near to 6k+ rpm in 4th gear with a 3.73 rear axle ratio (wasn't trusting the stock lower end at those speeds). My second time at the track was mid-late summer, and was a warm, humid day. I had BFG drag radials, and ran a 12.7, a 12.5, and the 12.4. The fourth run I goofed on the line (spun), so I just drove through. I held 4th gear this time, as the MPH wasn't as high as the previous runs due to the hot weather (the 12.4 was at 113mph). You had to be careful or even the drag radials would break loose (I thought they would grip a little better than they did). I can't wait to see what the new combo will do. I should buy taller tires as well, so I don't get the RPMs quite so high near the stripe.

Here are some links to pictures of my car and the engine if you want to get some ideas.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=269666

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...ght=twin+turbo

 

Check out the DIY-PROM board, there is lots of discussion on the tuning topic