3 stage nitrous control schematic bottem of the page.
People say I had to have 3 buttons, to activate the systems. Then asked how I would hold them all down at the same time.
It is hard to verbally explain how a 3 stage nitrous systems to people who know nothing about nitrous setups but what they learn from and see in the movies.
People watch way to many stupid movies and need to think for them selves for once, like I couldn't engineer a way around only having 2 thumbs. R!(ers .

 

What is the point of a 3 stage nitrous system? The only reason most people run a 2 stage is for traction issues, what would the point of a 3rd stage be?

It would be simple to build a 3 stage nitrous system with 1 button. 3 time delay relays, 3 sets of solenoids, set them to whatever delay you want and use 1 button as the switching means for the 3 relays.

For the money you would spend in time delay relays and nitrous/fuel solenoids for a 3 stage nitrous system, you could buy a nice progressive controller like the NX maximizer. Not to mention you are tripling your chance for solenoid failure.

 

WOT switch and two thumb buttons

 

Not quite.
I guess you didn't look at the schematic, it is made with 2 nitrous and 2 fuel noids. 2 systems controled to make 3 stages.
Nitrous brand name time delays are to expensive, I have rpm switches and a hold in circuit (not shown). 1st off the line or out of the hole and 2nd and 3rd switching between the rest of the way. I could add an inducer or 2 (1 for each system) for several mu seconds of delay when one circuit is closed and a nother opened so the 1-2 transfer isn't as rough.
It is my design and not limited to what some one else has built.
This isn't for you adverage shot. It is very tuneable and has the ability to isolate stages for tuning or different racing situations.
To have a 180+ shot that can only turn on and off, that's not real use full.
This is very basicly how it works:
There are only 2 systems, lets say a plate and a direct port.
First the smaller stage comes on (the plate), second stage hapens when the 1st stage plate cuts OFF and the direct port injection comes ON. Third stage is when the plate and the direct port run at the same time. Did I lose any one?
I can build this for $100's cheaper than I can buy one. It is very basic eletronic stuff, makes it harder for stuff to go wrong.

 

Cool we posted all most the same time.
Not quite it with the 2 thumb switches and WOT switches.
It is designed once armed to be activated and deactivated by the WOT switch, in gear switch and fuel pressure switch. I've got a sweet WOT switch, not some NOS or NX junker but a real high quailty switch with a cute little roller tip and all.

 

Here's your cookie. Good job.

But I doubt buying 2 kits (one being a direct port) w/ all electronics is cheaper than a single direct port w/ a progressive controller. I agree, NX, and NOS controllers are WAY overpriced. I bought one for a motorcycle called Shnitz, and it works great. It was $230. It doesn't have all the timing retard, or digital readout like the others, but I have an iginition box for that.

And I didn't see it advertised that they had a "wait and hold" option of wiring it up. Which means that if you lift on the throttle to shift, then it resets. What happens when you shift into 4th? I want all 100% at the instant I get it into gear. My box remembers where it left off and picks back up there.

 

This is exclusively for the Z28. It has a TH700 auto trans.
If I let off the gas it will shut off, killing power to the system. If I leave it with with RPM actived switchs running the thing it will pick up where it should at what ever RPM the WOT switch recloses at.
This is why I thought I would ask/show you guys, to make sure I didn't miss any thing. I also have a change to replace the light bulbs with a LED and resistor.
I can answer any questions any one might have about this thing.
This is cheap simple and if it breaks I can fix it.
I was going to make it modjular (sp?) all the working switchs, sencors and stuff are going to go through or be in or located on the "Black box".
I went with a plate & direct port because I have a duel plain intake manifold for the Z28 and running over a 150hp worth of plate could be bad. Duel plain and 150hp+ plate is well known for burned pistons.

 

There is still no point to running 3 shots of nitrous. Drag racers have been stacking nitrous plates for years.

 

The most simplistic stepped set-up's are for people who run fuel injection and dry shots with an aftermarket computer like Accel Gen 6/7 with a nitrous control built in and easily configurable with a laptop.

I think the complexity of bulding a three step system in a carb street car would outweigh the benefit.

 

It's not complex at all.
I am just taking 2 systems and makeing them do more.
The reason I don't have 2 plates stacked is I have a duel plain intake mainifold for the Z28. Much over 150 worth of plate power causes mixing problems and burned pistons. This is going to be much more than a 150 shot.
This 2 system nitrous is going to make a lot more power, if I can't control that power it will be use less.

 

Its not complex as much as it is pointless. You run a dual stage or time based progressive controller when you cant hook up out of the hole on your full shot of nitrous. You run an RPM based progressive controller if you are worried about running too much nitrous through the motor during a given rpm range. There is no point to a 3 stage nitrous system other than saying you have one.

 

I donno… I think it’s pretty slick... basically use the hardware that you would use for a 2 stage system and break it into 3 to deal with traction issues and prevent hurting something with a really big shot… Jet one for 75, the second for 150 and have a total of 225 (100, 200, 300… ). I personally went with a progressive controller which probably ended up cheaper but this is simpler and more reliable long term and I’m betting almost works as well.

Any chance you can post a bigger picture of the schematic? I’m curious and I can’t make out all the labels there.

 

Lets see how big it is here...

 

It's full size. If would have known I would have just posted it all here.
Isn't the progressive controler the one that opens and closes the selonoids to limit power?

 

Yes. And it does where them out faster.

 

That had crossed my mind.

 

Yep, that one is readable… thanks

yep and yep on the supposedly wears out the seals faster… OTOH, I’ve yet to see one of my solenoids needing a rebuild so I’m not sure how much faster.

 

PUT THE BIGGEST HIT YOUR GONNA USE ON THERE AND THEN TUNE THE SUSPENSION TO TAKE IT ALL. STOCK SUSPENSION 3RD GENS ARE NOW IN THE TEENS ON 60FT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Caps lock stuck on?