Quick Pole : who has what brand of nitrous?
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Supreme Member

Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,466
Likes: 71
From: Alberta, Canada
Car: 1989 Camaro-1LE
Engine: TPI(s)
Transmission: 5 speed (MM5, MK6)
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.73
Quick Pole : who has what brand of nitrous?
I am considering a NO2 setup. So far I have found:
NOS (via holley)
nitrous works
nitrous express
nitrous systems
compucar
Any comments on the "bar" vs the "jet" styles?
I was thinking on a stealth setup and mount the distribution bar inside the upper plenum and then mount the feed lines under the plenum. That way no plate or lines to be seen.
I am rather new to NO2 setups, so forgive the basic questions. I have just decided that I spent too much time polishing my TPI setup that I can't replace it with big stuff. So NO2 is one way to add power and keep the looks.
At what point do you need a timing retard? Or does the ECM retard it enough?
Mark.
NOS (via holley)
nitrous works
nitrous express
nitrous systems
compucar
Any comments on the "bar" vs the "jet" styles?
I was thinking on a stealth setup and mount the distribution bar inside the upper plenum and then mount the feed lines under the plenum. That way no plate or lines to be seen.
I am rather new to NO2 setups, so forgive the basic questions. I have just decided that I spent too much time polishing my TPI setup that I can't replace it with big stuff. So NO2 is one way to add power and keep the looks.
At what point do you need a timing retard? Or does the ECM retard it enough?
Mark.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 727
Likes: 1
From: Charleston, WV, USA
Car: '86 IROC-Z + Misc. project cars.
Engine: Supercharged + Nitrous TPI 355 CID
Transmission: Art Carr built Th700r4
I am using Nitrous Express™ with a single "shark nozzle™" fogger. The nozzle installs in the intake ducting in front of the throttle body. If you want to hide it, it can easily be installed on the bottom of the duct. You can then cover the lines with plasic split loom wire harness cover for more stealth.
I like that setup better than something under the plenum because it would be easier to get to the nozzle to change jets.
I like NX™ kits for several reasons. One is that most other brands use "engineering formulas" to calculate how much nitrous and fuel it takes to make a certain "theoretical" power level. That is the aproximate "crankshaft" horsepower produced. This is then the HP numbers they put on the kits.
NX™ uses actual rear wheel dyno tests and rates there kits at "rear wheel" horsepower levels. They also guarantee Your car will produce at least these rear wheel horsepower numbers minimum!
So if you buy another brand that is rated at 100 crankshaft horsepower and a NX™ kit rated at 100 rear wheel horsepower, the NX™ kit is actually making more power. That doesn't mean the other kits are junk! All the brands you listed are good. It just means they are rated differently and you need to take that into account when purchasing. The NX™ TPI kits come in single stage with jets for 50, 75, 100, 150 horsepower and you can buy addition jets for up to 250 HP. They also have a two stage kit that doubles these numbers. You can leave the line on a smaller jet size and when you get moving hit the second stage with bigger jets. That helps you get rolling without so much tire spin. The NX™ TPI kit comes with big "Iceman™" solenoids, about the size of NOS™ "Cheater™" solenoids. The NOS™ TPI kit comes with smaller "Powershot™" solenoids. That again is because the NX™ kits are actually flowing more nitrous & fuel at the same "rated" power levels.
Also important is the temperature of the bottle! All nirous kits are designed & jetted using a consistent bottle pressure of 900 PSI to 1050 PSI. Bottle temperature has a huge affect on bottle pressure. At room Temperature my bottle pressure can get down to less than 300 PSI. That would make for a very rich burning, black smoking, low power producing system. No matter what brand you buy get a bottle heater for it. A feature I like about the NX™ bottle heater is that it uses bottle pressure to turn the heater on and off. That keeps it at the perfect pressure at all times. Other brands use a thermostat that regulates the temperature of the bottle instead of the actual bottle pressure. That works better than no heater at all but isn't very accurate at holding optimal bottle pressure.
Check them out at Nitrous Express
------------------
EFI Performance Club on Yahoo
I like that setup better than something under the plenum because it would be easier to get to the nozzle to change jets.
I like NX™ kits for several reasons. One is that most other brands use "engineering formulas" to calculate how much nitrous and fuel it takes to make a certain "theoretical" power level. That is the aproximate "crankshaft" horsepower produced. This is then the HP numbers they put on the kits.
NX™ uses actual rear wheel dyno tests and rates there kits at "rear wheel" horsepower levels. They also guarantee Your car will produce at least these rear wheel horsepower numbers minimum!
So if you buy another brand that is rated at 100 crankshaft horsepower and a NX™ kit rated at 100 rear wheel horsepower, the NX™ kit is actually making more power. That doesn't mean the other kits are junk! All the brands you listed are good. It just means they are rated differently and you need to take that into account when purchasing. The NX™ TPI kits come in single stage with jets for 50, 75, 100, 150 horsepower and you can buy addition jets for up to 250 HP. They also have a two stage kit that doubles these numbers. You can leave the line on a smaller jet size and when you get moving hit the second stage with bigger jets. That helps you get rolling without so much tire spin. The NX™ TPI kit comes with big "Iceman™" solenoids, about the size of NOS™ "Cheater™" solenoids. The NOS™ TPI kit comes with smaller "Powershot™" solenoids. That again is because the NX™ kits are actually flowing more nitrous & fuel at the same "rated" power levels.
Also important is the temperature of the bottle! All nirous kits are designed & jetted using a consistent bottle pressure of 900 PSI to 1050 PSI. Bottle temperature has a huge affect on bottle pressure. At room Temperature my bottle pressure can get down to less than 300 PSI. That would make for a very rich burning, black smoking, low power producing system. No matter what brand you buy get a bottle heater for it. A feature I like about the NX™ bottle heater is that it uses bottle pressure to turn the heater on and off. That keeps it at the perfect pressure at all times. Other brands use a thermostat that regulates the temperature of the bottle instead of the actual bottle pressure. That works better than no heater at all but isn't very accurate at holding optimal bottle pressure.
Check them out at Nitrous Express
------------------
- 355 cid
- AFR heads
- Arizona Speed & Marine hydraulic roller cam w/ AFR hydra-rev kit
- modified SLP runners
- TRW forged pistons/ceramic coated
- fully balanced
- Edelbrock headers/ceramic coated
- SLP cat-back
- Paxton supercharger
- Nitrous Express nitrous oxide
EFI Performance Club on Yahoo
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 727
Likes: 1
From: Charleston, WV, USA
Car: '86 IROC-Z + Misc. project cars.
Engine: Supercharged + Nitrous TPI 355 CID
Transmission: Art Carr built Th700r4
Oh yeah...
you usually don't need timing retard until about 125-150 HP or larger. At that point is is a good idea to retard about 1 to 2 degrees for each 50 HP worth of nitrous because the dense nitrous/air/fuel mixture burns quicker.
100 HP = 2°-4° retard
125 HP = 2½°-5° retard
150 HP = 3°-6° retard
200 HP = 4°-8° retard...
Of couse this assumes your timing was already optimized for max power and no detonation.
you usually don't need timing retard until about 125-150 HP or larger. At that point is is a good idea to retard about 1 to 2 degrees for each 50 HP worth of nitrous because the dense nitrous/air/fuel mixture burns quicker.
100 HP = 2°-4° retard
125 HP = 2½°-5° retard
150 HP = 3°-6° retard
200 HP = 4°-8° retard...
Of couse this assumes your timing was already optimized for max power and no detonation.
Last edited by IROCKZ4me; Feb 9, 2002 at 07:17 AM.
in my 4th gen experience with NOS, the solenoids from them have a tendency to lock up and not work. if anything i would go with NX or TNT (Texas Nitrous Technologies). I think that is there name.
Chris
Chris
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