Well as you all know I removed my sumped tank and my SX fuel system.Well Ive been on the phone with Walbro latly,on the phone with their vendors and have read the Kenne Bell literature about their Boost a Pump.Here is the scoop:I ordered a new intank from Walbro the GSS340M.It flows alot,I mean ALOT,for an intank.I read the specs,talked with the engineer and tech and I am convinced this pump can handle,by itself I might add,no inline booster,over 800hp with a KB Boost A Pump.I got specs from tests done with this pump at 14volts and it flows enough for over 700hp,and the Boost A Pump can go 4 volts more,you do the math and figure out how far this pump can go .I am 100% convinced Walbro has a winner here.Intank is the way to go,sumped tanks on the street are not worth it at all,imho.Custom exhaust is expensive,and some still have problems with heat near the fuel.Here is my opinion,for anyone looking for a pump upgrade look no further,it will handle right up to 600hp on pump alone.I am getting a Boost A Pump and I will tell you why later,but with a Boost a Pump you expand your pumps operating range,no big gigantic inline,vibrating your whole under carrage.And while you are out of the boost,the pump is not pumping so much excess fuel threw the rails,until you do hit boost,the volts stay down as does the flow,a as needed type fuel system,and it isnt loud either,unlike inlines.Everyone knows Cottons Performance,His shop was in article in GMHT mag,I think he replaced the pump on Johnnys Formula.Well he owns a GN shop here in MA. He uses the same system on his GN.What does he run on this little pump and the KB Boost A Pump:10.6 at 127MPH!!With stock lines to boot.He is running over 20lbs of boost im sure.Just that is testimonial enough to convince me.

Well back to the KB disscussion.Ill tell you right now I was not a big fan of the Boost A Pump when I first discovered it.I thought you had to go with a big inline and a sumped tank,and seriously thought,the KB was a band aid for and small pumped car.I was wrong,its a fuel system enhancer. My brother has a KB supercharger on his 94 mustang so he has all the literature.I read it and will say I was very sceptical.From what I was reading he was saying you could take a 220lph pump and boost it to flow 320lph just with this Boost a Pump.And to boot he said there are apsolutly 100% no ill effects to the pump.Kind of hard to swallow I thought right off the bat.But,the big IF flashed in front of my eyes,he said it was tested on Walbro pumps.Tested at days at a time,running pumps to 18 volts,for hours,days on end,and no failures.I did what any car geek would,call up Walbro and question them about the tests.I spoke to the GM emgineer,Jim.Guess what he did,he confirmed that those test are 100% accurate.They spoke to KB,got the Boost A Pump and tried and tested it right at Walbro.Test were confirmed,accurate and truthful.Holy cow!!

I'll say sumped tanks are not bad,for cars that need them,my opinion,most cars dont need them.If you are running so fast you need to sump the tank,you are not street legal.I would have been laughed at had this happened a couple of years ago.There were no intanks on the market that could compete with the big boys,now thats changed.And I know a little secret,Walbros comming out with an even more powerful intank this summer for the 5.0 crowd first,then the GMs get it.

The GSS340M is small,you wouldnt believe how it could flow so much.I was told by Walbro you could take a car into the 9s with this pump and a Boost A Pump.They didnt mention his name but said a well known racer is running this pump with a twin turbo V8


I think the info I found out is a real eye opener,I am very surprised what I found out.Especially what Walbro told me on fuel line size.The say you dont need bit 1/2 inch lines(ID)to feed a EFI motor, with higher FP,unlike carbs,you dont need a big line because as pressure increases,so does flow.Thats why you need big 10AN lines on a big HP carb setup because it only flows at 7psi or so.Unlike EFI which typically flows in the 45-50 psi range.You can make a lot of power with a 3/8 (ID) line on EFI,probably close to 8-900hp.Im running 7/16 (ID)line feed and 5/16(ID) return.

There is one more thing for all you blower and turbo guys.I was told if you isolate the vacume to the regulater you will get a 1psi increase in FP for every lbs of boost.Kind of like a mini fmu.At around 55psi the GSS340M flows about 65-70gph.It flows 70gph at 50psi.But my point is here Ill start off with 45psi and if I run 10lbs on my motor,ill be seeing 55psi under boost,keeping my motor nice and fed.My SX pump in comparison flows 80gph at 45psi and its twice the size of the Walbro. Heres the kicker,the Walbro cost me $120+ the $10 installation kit,compare that with a $300 inline pump,$150 regulater,and $100 filter.I was stupid in my first fuel system endevors.I wont make that mistake again.I learned an expensive lesson.But now I see its worth it cause I learned so much I thought I knew.There are a lot of misconceptions about fuel systems,especially EFI,I want to make people aware that you might be going overboard in you fuel system decisions.Thanks for your time,reply & questions please

 

Wow thats a real eye opener and for someone who has done what I have, a hard pill to swallow.

Good luck with it man! Im anxious to see how it works out on your car.

------------------
-86 IROC
Vortech Supercharged 406
-=ICON Motorsports=-

 

Darren,

Thanks for all the info (and e-mails).

I've said all along that my fuel pressure regulator increases pressure with boost, but no one could confirm this. I believe the reason is because everyone seems to install an FMU with their supercharger. I did not. With the FMU, you don't know that the pressure regulator is adding fuel pressure WITH the FMU. I have seen a 1 psig increase in fuel pressure with every pound of boost for almost three years. Thanks for confirming this fact.

------------------
Willie

Supercharged 1987 305 IROC-Z, Daily-Driver, Emissions-Legal.
Paxton (6-psig): 12.57 @ 111 mph.
Paxton (6-psig) & 50-hp nitrous: 12.04 @ 114 mph.
ATI D1SC (10-psig): ?

http://willie.camaro-firebird.org/

1987 "20th Anniversary Commemorative Edition" Z28 Convertible -- Super Chevy Show Class Winner, 1998.

 

I am running a stock intank pump and a inline boost pump that came with my procharger. I am upgrading to more boost. (searching for that D-1 deal)Does this mean that if I have 15-20 psi. I can support this with my inline boost pump and the intank pump you are referring to? I have stock fuel lines and I was planning on running bigger stainless lines. Is this necessary? Hey Procharged check out the parts for sale and let me know what you think.

 

Well, there are some other things to considered. My S-Trim on an FMU needed 90 +PSI from my fuel system. I added the Walbro in tank pump that flows 55gal/hr@50psi and it could not support 90+pressures. I leaned out big time
with 11 psi S-Trim on my 94 Camaro.

Before I used the Walbro, I had the Kenney Bell Boost A Pump hooked to my stock in tank, and it worked well to 6 PSI.. After that I upgraded to the Walbro.. I was pissed that the pump couldnt handle the high pressures..

I loved the Kenney Bell Boost A Pump, very cool unit. I was soo pissed at the in tank Walbro, I chucked it for a NOS external pump. 15674. It solved my fuel starvation problems at higher pressures
Did the guy from walbro give you flow chart for higher pressures?? Because another friend of mine running 80 PSI pressure with the same Walbro pump had problems also.
BE CAREFUL if you will run high pressures.. The NOS pump I used is rated at 38GAl/Hr@90+psi which I needed... Did he give you info of high pressures with the Walbro??? POS pump form the experiences I had with it...
I think the in tank Walbro would be great for N/A cars, keeping pressures below 60.

 

well, i agree with a lot of things that darren said and i to believe that in tanks are far under-rated, but eventually you need to upgrade to bigger fuel lines. i have said this before. the way you know you need bigger fuel lines is when you have a huge pump and a whole lot of fuel pressure but your fuel pressure starts to lose pressure as rpm's rise, whether it is a boosted application or n/a. when this happens and only when this happens is when you need upgraded lines. also take into account that boosted applications always require more fuel because of the mass amounts of air they are flowing. take for example your SX pump (and soon to be mine hehehe) will flow enough fuel for 1000hp n/a and only about 700hp on a boosted application.
as for the kb boost a pump, yes it does work but only to a point. like i said once you start losing fuel pressure nothing can help you except bigger fuel lines. as many know, as fuel pressure rises pumps lose flow, so if you have tiny fuel lines and a big pump with a lot of pressure....it isn't doing much for your fuel system. where as if you have maxed out your current fuel lines, when you put a bigger pump and lines, you will be able to run lower fuel pressure and be flowing actually more fuel because of two reasons:
1) lower fuel pressure a pump will flow more fuel, look at any flow chart for a pump
2) a bigger fuel line can flow more at the same fuel pressure because of the volume of fuel it is flowing.

 

I'll be ordering the Walbro, who has the best price?

------------------
SUPERCHARGED 87 GTA: Blk/Gld w/Superam, 355cid Trickflows, forged pistons 9.5:1. Auto 2,600 stall, 3.45 9 bolt disc, Best time & mph (Naturally Aspirated): 13.567 @ 101.900 w/ a poor 60ft. Best mph: 104.3 *This car is 100% NYS emissions legal, w/ all emissions controls!* "If you want to have a fast car, hang out w/ those who do!"
http:// www.community.webtv.net/munks87/JustinsGTApage.com
VORTECH S-TRIM, INSTALLATION IN PROGRESS: 10 & 15 LB> PULLEYS, CUSTOM HKS RACE BYPASS, CUSTOM DUCTING W/ COLD AIR, SWAPPING TO SERPENTINE, & MANY EXTRAS! BEST TIME: 11'S I GUESS. WE'LL SEE IN SPRING!

 

Kevin,What pump do you have?The pump I bought is the newest.I asked for a flow in gph right off their chart at the time on the phone.At 50psi it flows 70 gph.If you are neededing to push your system to 90psi your under injected.What size injectors do you have?Walbro and other have confirmed that when you up the psi flow goes down in any pump,injectors will ultimatly shut themselves down no matter what pump you have out back.When I first got my fmu in my ATI kit ,i was like what the hell is this thing?ATI told me the FMU make an injector flow like a bigger one,hence more psi more flow.But just eliminate the FMU and go with bigger injectors.Too much psi makes the pump work hard,90 psi is way to much to run threw any injector,they cant take it.It is recommended to run an EFi system no more that 65 psi.Its been confirmed this pump has powered 10sec turboed vehicles,so yes it can push the fuel,but not at 90psi,why 90?

Willie yes this surprised me when I heard it,and confirmed something I saw on a Vettee at the track in 97.Guy had a ATI on his vette and I was asking him where the fmu was,he said his kit didnt come with one.I was then how the hell do you get more flow to the motor?He said they told him to just isolate the vacume to the fmu and raise your stock pressure to 50 psi.He had a 9lb kit and told me he was seeing 60psi under boost.Now I know why.If you have ever seen regulaters advertised as boost referenced,that is a crap lie,all regulaters are boost referenced,just isolate the vacume to it and wala,increased pressure.But you were way ahead of all of us on this Willie,thanks for the reply.

Tadder,I caint find your email.I want your intake pipe.The best thing to do would be to take out the inline pump.Run the Walbro Gss340M,boost refernce your factory regulter and up your injectors.The boost a pump is a great thing to consider to,with that you are really uping the flow of your pump under bost where you really need it.Email me I want that piping.Oh by the way the stock lines are rated at about 700hp or more.

Justin call that number I gave you ,Jim at Walbro will you a # to call its there distributor.I paid $125 for the pump and like 10 dollars for the install kit.Here is the Part#s you need :the pump Part#GSS340M
instal kit #400-835.

Jim when your ready give me a buzz.

 

I am using the 24# SVO injectors. They work well , and I am near maxing them out for sure. But I have NO problems with these injectors and the NOS pump.Steady 90+ psi and no lean condition.. I actually had a it run too rich at first with the NOS pump. The only thing I changed was the Walbro pump when the car was running lean with it.. It was bought 2 years ago and was rated at 55 gal/hr@50 psi. It didnt work for squat, and my friend running a dry kit on his car chucked his Walbro also, when it couldnt handle the volume for the 85+ PSI he needed.
Good luck with that pump, and definately keep us up to date with the performance of the pump for your car!!!! Hopefully it is different, and improved than the ones me and my friend used 1 1/2 to 2 years ago.

 

Darren,

That is some really good info there....now that my car is up and running...i cant believe how loud that inline pump is from ATI...I want too get rid of it and put a in-tank pump in...did you check into the holley intank pump that is advertised in GMHTP...they claim 255/Lph...just curious.

Did you fire up your car yet???

Where's some pics man???

give me a call sometime...

later
larry

------------------
MÅN¡ÅÇ ©
88 IROC 5.7L,edelbrock TES,random tech cat,borla exhaust,chip,sfc,accel wires,airfoil,k&n's,ETC..
and NOW supercharged!!!
http://maniac.megamania.com

 

Let me ask you all one question... Is Walbro going to pay for your motor if it does lean out and destroys a piston or worse?

A fuel system is nothing worth being cheap on if adding a power adder. Trust me, I leaned one motor out, it blew apart 2 pistons, put a rod out the side of the block, the oil pan looked like someone took a 12 gauge to it, and pieces of piston damaged my aluminum heads. Trust me, I will never have an engine go lean due to a lacking fuel system.

 

My ad for the polished piece is in the parts for sale with a picture.

 

i hear that one, thats why with my new motor i'm running two SX 1000hp one feeding each rail, -10 feed and supply, -8 rails, -6 return. oh and 95lb injectors. never can be too careful. better to run rich a thousand times than lean once


------------------
Big Thumper 400 started!
91mm Turbo
GM raised runner heads
more as money allows
Always a cool place visit
www.mfba.org

 

89prochargedroc, Ever think of going with weldon pumps?

I know you are familiar with Job Spetter Jr, so I figure you know Turbo People then. They use nothing but Weldons for their cars. Just an idea for you. They are noisy pumps, but Steve Casio (car I work with) tested 1160rwhp and runs a single weldon pump.

 

well, i've tried to contact turbo people several times, but nobody answers the phones. yes i am familiar with his car and how jealous i am. i thought about going with a Weldon 2025-A, that would be enough pump for my application but didn't want the hassle of a voltage regulator, because believe me or not, i'm going to attempt to drive it on the street some too and dont want the hassle. so i figured two smaller pumps feeding each rail would work better for my application. but yes i have considered it, but have decided against it.

[This message has been edited by 89ProchargedROC (edited February 21, 2001).]

 

*shrug* Ive just got an aeromotive. There are tons of LT1 guys running the same fuel system I am running with lots more power than I am and not killing their pumps.

I feel pretty safe.

Good luck guys.

 

Maniac,those pumps by Holly are the Walbros,the newest is the 255lph forced induction model they sell it for GN but its the same for our cars.Ill send you the # to call for Walbro.

Now Cobra R,when did this happen,when you blew your motor.I told you about the GN pulling the 10Sec times at 127,how much faster were you.The point of this post is that everyone seems to go overboard on everything.You dont need a big Weldon pump on a ****ing street car pushing 600hp.Like I said if you are pushing that many ponies you arent street legal,no matter what anyone says.If you dont believe me call him he is in Agawam MA,heres his #413-789-0531.Tell him you need to sump your tank and spend over a $1000 dollars to run what he is running.How many street car have I seen running close to 1000hp on the street:none,800:none:700:none600:yes.Lets be realistic here.Those pumps are made for race cars,not street cars,they overpower the rails in idle conditions and are loud as hell.If you can get by with the system I mentioned why not?Just because Job Spetter is running a Weldon pump doesnt mean I have to.Hes at 1200hp,where am I close to 650hp no more.Cmon,this is classic if more is better then to much is just right.Im not at all being cheap,maybe your system was put together years ago,times have changed,technology is much improved.Just a couple of years ago a hot intank was rated at 35gph at 45 psi.LOL Now they have one pushing 70gph at 50 psi.That by itself is enough to flow fuel for 90% of the board members here.Give me a break,probably 1% here is pushing 800+hp.Why would you put a 1000hp system on a 600hp car?It like putting Forged billet bottom end in a rebuilt replacement engine that will never see the other side of 300hp.Im not trying to be ****y,put what Im seeing is a big waste of money,that can be avoided.Call up the pump manufactures,talk to them,dont make assumptions.On the GSS340M,it flows 70gph at 50 psi at 12volts,are you saying that if I boost the voltage to 14 or 16 Im not going to feed my motor under boost?I have 50lb injectors,that pump will turn out over 320lph under the voltage boost,do the math,its more than enough.Yes everyone thinks intanks are a joke,not anymore,yes those big pumps look cool hanging from your bumper,but its not for everyone.Take this for all its worth,My SX regulater as with others like Aeremotive and such,yes the pumps feed threw 10AN lines,yes the filters are also 10AN yes the regulater accepts 10AN,but the controversy starts here,look in side the regulater,the feed side,see that small little hole probably 4an big real small,how come,feed the whole system 10AN only to be cut down right before the motor,like it says the smallest line dictates your system,you can have 10an all to the motor,but that little transfer hole in the regulater is 4an at best,so wheres the advantage of running a 10An line?Im sticking by my guns on this one.This is something new,and Im going for it.

 

Attn: Procharged. I tried to edit my part for sale post. ZFor some reason I can get the picture at work but not at home. Here is my home e-mail - www.smutnewt@aol.com.
Let's make a deal because someone else has already approached me and I heard form you first. thanks.

 

more power to you. I wish you luck on this one. I personally used the Walbro in tank and it was a piece of trash under high pressures.. I chucked it for a better pump. It could not support the volume under high pressures on my car. Some people overdo their fuel systems because they never have to upgrade inthe future if they choose more mods.Cobra-R will be running 750-800RWHP on a street legal car.. A car you say isnt possible being called street legal LOL.. Look at George Baxters car.. Daily driven capable(barely) 9 second car.
I built a 580RWHP emmisions legalT/A with a Weldon pump, which was daily driven. No issues with daily driving with a Weldon pump at all. Noise was a litle louder, oh well, Like someone mentioned earlier, better be over fueled 1000 times than under once.
Everyone does things differently, and my opinion on this in in my experience with Walbro, they were junk . hopefully they have improved these pumps dramatically in the last year or so. I hope your right, and these pumps now perform up to the h.p. levels they are quoteing you, cause it would be truely a great setup to be able to do.




[This message has been edited by Kevin G (edited February 22, 2001).]

 

Cmon this is exactly what Im talking about,I live in an area where rolling emmisions are done,so is safety inspection,George Baxtors car is not legal,no matter how you look at it.It doesnt retain the factory exhaust routing and there is no way in hell he passes emmisons with the blower hooked up,so him passing emmisions in 9 sec trim,I dont think so.I heard stories of high hp cars ,where are they?They are so few and far between it aint funny.What you ran for HP is believable.Not 900HP.You must not have the rolling emmisions dyno.If the one doing the emmisions test was competent and did his job correctly,like inspect the car thoroly,even I might not pass.Some places will not even touch a car in this condition for fear of loosing his buisness licence to do emmisions,thereby having $50,000 worth of emmisons equipment sitting idle.Either the tester is dumb,or you know him real good,the latter is much more believable.Kevin if you are disputing the claims on hp call up Cotton,Ive been emailing him already a couple of times on it,and he confirmed what I said here.What more do you guys want?2years ago is when you bought the Walbro pump?God thats a while ago.The speed at which technology moves is unbelievable.Go back 2 years and look at the computers then and now,get the picture?

Street legal,mmm,that statement skates on very thin ice.If you are going by the mags you read and what you hear on the boards,you better go out and look on the street cause thats where its at.I do know someone who does emmisions testing,and yes I know him real well.but that doesnt give me special privliges.He has told me he has had to turn away some cars,cars like you are talking about,big HP cars comming in like they just came from the strip.This kind of stuff dont fly with the tester,they just dont take chances.If you dont have the rolling emmisions now enjoy it while you can it going to get implemented sooner or later in every state.We copy CA and they get tougher every year.So your examples,street legal pushing 850RWHP,NOT,are you going to run the blower during emmisions testing?

I dont know why Im getting oposition here.You dont believe me fine go about your way Ill talk to people who has an open mind and common sense.You said you had 24lb injectors,on a 580RWHP car!!And your complaining of going lean.I wonder why.

 

Im going to drive my car. Im hoping for at least 500rwhp.

The fact is people do drive these cars on the street. Legal or not it happens and its possible. Because TECHNOLOGY makes it possible to do it.

Turbo cars are especially suseptable.
race boost=25psi
street boost=15psi

make it livable on the street and pump gas. just some thoughts but people do drive them.

------------------
-86 IROC
Vortech Supercharged 406
-=ICON Motorsports=-

 

Man you are really twisting stuff around here. First of, Street legal doesnt have to be emmisions legal. It is a moot point anyway when concerning fuel systems. What is defined for this topic is people RUNNING ON THE STREET with high horsepower on a regular basis, which wouldnt be pulled over for being too radical, or breaking down ect. I know guys who run 700RWHP cars on the street for long drives no problem. These cars will not run with an in tank pump like you mentioned..Weldons can be run on the street no problems. Or lets just say they arent foolish enough to trust a cheap *** pump on a 10k motor. It is like rolling the dice with you on a 650 h.p. motor and the pump you want to run. Most people wont want to "CHANCE" it with a ton of money invested in the drivetrain.. Thats why you see most performance shops push the good proven fuel systems, when spending a ton of money on higher h.p. applications. They wont recommend cutting corners and hopeing for the best to save a couple bucks, and chance ruining thousands.
I personally used a in tank pump that flows the same as they claim and sell today. It was a pice of **** at higher pressures.
2 years ago , but the same flow ratings..hmm..

You are mixing up 2 different cars. The 580 RWHP IM240 dyno emmisions legal car I was talking about was a friends car I put together. If you dont believe it was dyno emmisions, look in April 99 Hot Rod magazine. It is in there.
My car isnt running nearly as much h.p. as my friends car. If you read my post earlier, which I am thinking you didnt, I am running just fine with a NOS pump, no leaning out at all. The Walbro was the reason it leaned out, not the injectors.
Once again, good luck with your pump ideas, and at the 650 h.p. you are estimating from your setup, you will need it. I honestly hope it runs great, and give me some respect for those pumps.. I have damn good reason to stay away from it from my experiences with that product in the past. You make it seems as if it is foolish to spend a few more hundred dollars on an excellent fuel system, when I see it as the smart thing to do.

[This message has been edited by Kevin G (edited February 22, 2001).]

 

Procharged... Ok first of all I never said you needed a weldon pump, I was talking to the other guy building a Turbo 400.

Second, exactly how many high hp cars have you tuned, built or had anything to do with? I think that I would go by the advice of the people building and tuning these cars over any manufacturer. But that is just me.

Third, on your fuel pressure regulator, yes you are right on the fitting sizes... ONE small problem, the regulator is on the return side of the fuel system, not the feed side of a fuel injected car. The Fuel feed line(s) enter the rails before the regulator. The regulator is regulating how much fuel is allowed to return to the tank.

fourth, over pressure fuel rails? I am not sure on GM cars since I mostly deal with Mustangs, and I know that the only draw back to a stock fuel rail is how much it flows. They are suggested not to be used over 550hp. However on cars with less, I have seen hp improvments simply changing the fuel rails and nothing else.

fith, as stated before if you want to be sure to have just enough or just a little extra fuel for the amount of hp that you run that is fine. Personally I will have 6000 just in my shortblock by the time its done, and another 2600 in heads. I personally wont take that kind of chance.

sixth, we have the rolling dyno emissions test, Its not as hard to pass as you think. A properly tuned motor with the proper setup will run clean due to being effecient. My Mustang when I had cam/heads/intake bigger injectors and such passed the test very cleanly. Better than I have seen some new cars.

Either way, you do what you want, I was just giving some insite on what I have learned dealing with some of the fastest Mustangs around. And a fuel system is a fuel system no matter what kind of car its on.

 

geesh...all this bickering and telling PROCHARGED89Z that he needs his SX stuff, wont allow me to buy it you dummies.

Well, i'm already said my peace, but i will add this. i know some herendously fast "street cars" (some dont pass emissions)around my city and suburbs. Different combinations require different pumps. to be quite honest, i would never ever put one of these paxton, aeromotive, or SX pumps on a N/A car.....just too much fuel, period. Any type of blower/turbo/nitrous car DEMANDS a lot of fuel attention. You can never really "over fuel a boosted car." well, maybe you can, but like i said before rich 1000 times your still together, lean once and your motor will say whatever....poof!

Also, you have to know what your limits are going to be. What if you turn your car into a "race car one day?" oops, i have to do the fuel system again. but if you did it the first time well....we've all been there sometime saying that one. i always say:

do it once and do it right


that way you'll be happy and not regret anything

oh yeah and one more thing....what is this thing everyone is talking about called
"emissions? "

[This message has been edited by 89ProchargedROC (edited February 23, 2001).]

 

Okay here calm down.Kevin your intank you bought 2 years ago didnt even come close to what the pumps are moving now.I gave you a example and still no one acknowlages it.Go to the Turbo regal boards this is a hot pump,check out the disscussions,or better yet ask Skulte .My combo is not going to push 900hp,you guys arent seein the point of this post.Why would I need a 1000hp fuel system for a 650hp at best car,and thats under boost,which I will not BE AT 100% OF THE TIME LIKE THE SO CALLED RACE CARS YOU THINK I SHOULD COPY.

CobraR yes I understand what you are saying about emmisions it is not hard to pass,yes but while pushing 900hp??Where is the line drawn here?To tell someone this is within reach of the average enthusiest is a slap in the face of such person.These cars are very few and far between and have close to $70,000 into them or more.My car is not all out drag car,why do I need an all out drag car fuel system?

And about how many cars Ive tuned and to that degree,I dont own a dyno & alot of high dollar equipment,some of you come across as though you do this for a living. And some do.I have worked on many third gens,Im very familer with these cars inside and out.Im not a big tuner,again you 2 are talking down to me as though you 2 are,something I dont appreciate.There is enough **** here on the web that I dont want to start shifting threw it,Who are you 2 anyway?Ive been to the track countless times and first and formost like to pick threw the **** talkers and bull****ters first,then I move on to looking at combos,what works and what doesnt.Im very thourouh,Im very sure this setup will work,so sure,that Im willing to run my motor on it and you can be dam sure you 2 will find out what happens first.No one knows it all ,so dont play the part,its not good for your image.I never said once,not once a sumped car is a bad Idea,just it is a bad Idea on a car that doesnt need it, namely mine.I thought I knew it all when putting my fuel system together,now Im eating those know it all thoughts.I was wrong I can admit that.And by me admitting that,Im sure some here,and some that dont even post,are wondering why.Im not going to follow a trend that says I have to use whats the "pros" do.Im not a pro,Im a regular guy who like these cars with a passion,and take every chance to work on one weather it be mine or someone elses.I know a lot of people,met alot more,I dont take someones word as the law I take many more opinions and make my decision,and only when the most important opinion is in,MINE. I dont know you 2 from a hole in the wall,you can talk until your blue in the face,I dont care.Im the only one that touches my car,and can say I made it this far
Youve built cars, what cars have you personally built?I built mine,thats one,do installing superchargers on a car count for one also?I can play the bolt on performance game to.I bought a laptop and a new engine managment system and this is the big time so you say.Im gonna tune this car myself if it kills me.Ive learned so much just from the software,Im learning,but wont say I know it all.Never will.

You guys have totally ruined my good post,Im pissed and it shows,I dont care.Im trying to get across the good info I found out.Skulte,just on the GSS307 is running 114mph,not bad for twins on a stock motor and he isnt making that much boost.The pump is holding up it seems.And it seems he is going to stay with it for more boost too.Go figure,go warn him about impending doom.

Anyone who is interested in what I found out,post,well anyone who is open minded anyway.I can be subjective,but not steamrolled in to someones opinions.Ill bet the bank on mine before I even consider yours.

And Kevin why the hell do you keep making reference to the 2 flo ratings being the same at higher pressures?Of course they are,but you being so smart cant see these pumps arent designed to work at 90psi Fit the pump to the application,simple.It might not flow big at 90psi,but it flows 70GHP at 50psi.Where does your FP spend most of its time?You are asking the pump to do somehting it wasent designed for,like taking a stock motor with a redline of 5500rpms and spinning it to 9000 and then getting pissed because it wont take it The pump was not designed for that psi end of story.It was desiged for the much, much more common psi ranges.If you would have referenced the flow chart this would have told you all you needed to know and you could have saved yourself some money.Dont come here telling me the pump is trash when you used it not as it was intended,and it didnt live up to YOUR expectations.Most dont want to chance anything because of all the crap read in Mags and read here,thats why 400hp motors have $6000 bottom ends,because they dont want to "chance it".Chance what?If your combo doesnt call for it,why install it.If its working let it work.Obviously from your statements here Kevin they have not at all swayed my opinion to use the pump with the Boost A pump.You have no experience using it the way I would....
Oh well done venting If you want to talk to me on the level do so, dont try to talk down to me,or what just happened will happen again.

Oh one more thing ,this is to Guido,I cant believe you would underestimate your combo so badly.That things gonna be sick

 

I worry about my heads. They are only AFR190's and dont flow much for a 406 IMO. But it will run pretty good I think.


You should at least give a little credit to Cobra R and Kevin. I know Cobra R has built at least 2 Mustangs that went 10's and Kevin has a 94Z that runs good and has an aftercooled S-Trim on it. He is pretty good at working on the cars and has worked on quite a few of them. So has Cobra R.

Good luck Darren. Hope it works out for you.

------------------
-86 IROC
Vortech Supercharged 406
-=ICON Motorsports=-

 

First off, you are stomping your feet about something YOU HAVENT EVEN USED YET.

Lets take a step back to a few things you mentioned earlier

That is a total load of crap. I guess every kit that comes with an FMU is wrong. Or the countless NOS guys who run higher pressures. I guess my car running great at 90 PSI cant happen either. Jeez. Give me a break already. If I had 400 bucks for new injectors and another 500 for a dyno tune, then i would do it, but I DONT HAVE TO.

Another completely wrong comment. Daily driven Weldon pumped cars are commonplace. I even mentioned one car I personally put together daily driven with one. Overpowering the rails?? LOL Now that is funny.

You don’t even know how a regulator works, considering Cobra_r already mentioned it is on the return side, not the feed side like you think it is. It doesn’t effect the flow whatsoever to the injectors. You based your whole idea of junking your previous setup based on wrong info.


Neither will any other cars I mentioned earlier, since I was talking about the 580RWHP daily driver I referred to. All of the other cars I mentioned were forced induction also, which don’t run full boost everywhere either.. Man where are you coming from??

Man every post I wished you luck , and you are the one here getting all bent out of shape. You have numerous errors in your logic about high h.p. fuel setups and regulators, ect, which I pointed out. I have personally used Walbro pump and boost a pump, and commented MY results using them, not someone elses.

Dude, just because someone doesn’t agree with you, you think its about some kind of image?? AHAHAHAHAHA Give me a break already. You are the one who has taken this post to the toilet. I never personally attacked you, and wished you luck on your setup. Now I get your latest response , which is pathetic.

No $hit Sherlock, that’s what I have been stating the whole time in this post. Most guys running poweradders run higher pressures. And you were basing the flow of the Walbro pump totally off h.p. numbers. I made it clear I had problems with the Walbro in higher pressures, and used a different pump. Damn dude, you are way off base here.

Once again you are the one who has taken this post to flameing. To get this defensive over nothing, you must have some issues. Good luck with your setup.

 

i think i'm going to cry
cant we all just get along

 

I've managed to stay out of this discussion, but I follow both sides of this. I've got the Walbro GSS307 intank pump (same as the new GSS340M, with a different pressure relief spring). All that matters is that your fuel system can supply enough volume at the pressure required. I'm keeping this intank pump until it's maxed out (i.e. see fuel pressure start dropping with rpms, because it can't supply enough fuel to the injectors). Working with a high-hp engine forces you to be aware of whats going on. If you see the fp start dropping off, or get leaner 02 numbers as the rpm climbs, then you know you need to upgrade. Ya just have to see it before its a problem (and you hit detonation). As long as the intank meets the published specs, it should be good for most of us here.

On the flip side, I'm a huge fan of overkill. Motto - do it right the first time, and don't do it again. Building a huge fuel system that can support 1000 hp is fine. Sure, its more expensive, but at least you know it won't ever be a concern. Everyone I know can't just do one mod, and leave well enough alone. This year ya might add an intercooler, and run 600 hp. Next year you'll want more power again, and decide to build a stronger engine which might require a larger fuel system. If you've already got the fuel system in place, its one less thing to do.

This is just my reasoning



------------------
Andris Skulte
Skulte Performance Designs
Z28tt-89 IROC T56 DFI Twin Turbo
http://www.skulte.com

 

FINALLY! SOMEONE WHO THINKS LIKE I DO!

But Andris, stop stealing my modo....

 

i was going to say that too LOL

its easy for tempers to flare in conversations like this.



------------------
-86 IROC
Vortech Supercharged 406
-=ICON Motorsports=-

 

I am not sure exactly what you are trying to prove here, and at this point I really dont care. I was suggesting that you go with the SX setup. Sure you can go by your O2 reading, the only problem here is that you are going off information on something that has already occured. No matter, I was just trying to say go with more than you need when it comes to the fuel system. If you dont want to, more power to you.

 

Well again Ill respond Because this is my post.

Kevin first off here Ill say I was mad last post but some of my questions to you wernt answered,you just pick thing out of my post you can reply to.Where is your experience in all this?You built one car with a weldon pump okay,I would have built mine with a SX,had I not taken it out.Id have way more than enough fuel,then I would preach like you how well it worked and was never starved for fuel,blah, blah,blah,big deal.Man if you could care less which approch I take why do you keep responding?You wished me luck about 3 times already after shooting down my idea,you gonna shoot down this post then wish me luck again?You still havent got the point of this post,have you,the heading doesnt read "Sumps suck heres why"I found out good info and tried to share it,you continue to argue with me,who says Im right and who says you are.Just leave it at that,please lets stop arguing,Im just going about feeding my motor a different way then you would.Ill be sure to let you know what happens.

Skulte,will you put a boost a pump on it when you need more flow?Or just swap it out.I will be gettin mine soon,they have 2 the 20 amp and 40 amp version.I have to call on that.I just read the literature.Let me know.One more thing,Walbro recommends removing the pulsater on the sending unit,did you take yours off when You installed it?


Guido what did you have for an intank with the 355?I thought you had a 255lph Holley.Thnks for the replies.

 

Procharged - I'll jump off that bridge when I get to it I'll probably go with a sumped fuel cell by that point. The onlydrawback I see to the boost-a-pump is the increased wear and tear on the pump motor. Sure, everything is built with a safety factor, but upping the voltage removes it. The pump wasn't designed to flow that much fuel at that pressure, and the extra voltage will heat up the motor windings more, spin the pump faster (wear on bearings and impeller), be less efficient, and might cause cavitation of the impeller. I think it's a great temporary solution (and I haven't heard of any failures due to the BAP) but I think the proper pump in the first place would be a better solution. This is an opinion from an engineer who works with nuke plants, so I'm pretty picky about how I do things. For the dollar, the Walbro/BAP system makes sense.

Cobra - Yes, the 02 is after your lean combustion. So is every other way of determining if you're rich or lean. Being vigilant, patient, and cautious when designing and setting up the pump/injectors and fuel/timing maps would let you see that the pump is too small before you break parts. BTW - I also said overkill is better

Andris

[This message has been edited by askulte (edited February 24, 2001).]

 

Andres,This is what I like to hear.Good imput,from and engineer to boot Walbro told me they were skepticle of KB tests but they did them too and said that they dont affect the pump at all in terms of wear.I dont know of the pumps design,but it gerotor design dont know what that means.Im going to do it so all will know . thanks for the reply

 

I never said I could care less. You obviously cannot handle someone who disagrees with you on certain things.

I posted my personal accounts using Walbro, Kenney Bell Boost a pumps, Weldons,SX and other various pumps and why I came up to my conclusions when using them.I have built many cars, and have worked on cars in general for a living for a total of 10 years.. 7 in which were at a GM dealer as a Mastertech, doing many different combos. I was commenting MY experiences with them.

I am not TELLING anyone to do anything, and I never did. If you cannot get what I am saying, you never will. Your logic was flat out wrong in some of your comments, and I pointed them out. Go back to my first post, and it summs up what I have been saying all along. I gave my opinions so others reading can make their own conclusions from it all, thats what a message board is for. For you to sit here and cry like a baby about it is pointless. I do hope you have success with that pump, but I want to make sure people know that h.p. ratings on pumps arent everything, especially if it cannot support the horsepower claimed at higher pressures, where some cars like mine run. There are other pumps out there that are designed to handles those higher pressures, and would work better if those pressures are needed.
If you want to throw a temper trantum some more, go right ahead. Have a nice day




[This message has been edited by Kevin G (edited February 24, 2001).]

 

Wow you really are a jerk I can handle someone who disagrees with me but wheres your proof?You quote 10 years of building cars,you should be a pro then.What many cars have you built? What, bolt on performance?Or full ground up,build and blueprint the motor,and modify the chassis acordingly.Hey I can bolt a blower on any motor same as you,doesnt mean I have built that car.You were 7 years a Gm master tech,big whoop,my father ,has over 20 ,being a GM tech,worked and got sent to school just as you,he doesnet do it anymore,well at the dealships anyway.He is the last person to know anything about performance,he just repaired at a Gm dealership like you,doesnt make him a performance expert

My logic was wrong?Man ,go sit on it and spin will ya.Who the hell says your right to.Of course a big pump will feed most any motor,you mentioned a 580rwhp combo you "built" with what kind of pump?Weldon,ya like the motor was really starving for fuel.Talk about overkill.

Please explain your experiences.You say you built this car and that one.You want to make sure people know about HP ratings on pumps,Im not going by hp rating if thats what you thought,but thanks for looking out for me The pump flows a good gph at what Im going to run for psi.With my combo it is ideal.And you keep explaining that you want people to understand there are pumps out there to support higher pressures,wow good for you.I started this post for the exact same reason,to let people know there are powerful intanks out there and can handle beefy combos without having to spend close to $1000 for a new fuel system.So guess what? You want to let pople know,start your own dam post You used a 2 year old Walbro pump,and are comparing it to the most recent one.You just dont get it.Yet you say Walbros junk it wont handle 90psi,well your the dummy that picked the wrong pump for that task.I asked to end this bickering in my last post but you display horrible board manners,I asked to end it ,you post again insulting me,and your a moderator?You have a nice day And could some one else please post replys besides Kevin,he is turning this post into a comedy.

 

Hey can I throw down something here? I was just curious. You guys are talking about 600rwhp cars here right? What kind of computers are you all running? My car Ran like kaka with stock ecm. I know you guys are boosted and things are different but I run a pretty hefty shot on my street car and needed to go to a speed pro. And I do have a walbro pump and can say I am happy. Other than I paid to much for it under the holley name. I dont have any new numbers yet as for the speed pro, but I got @ 11.22 @ 131.24 w/ 1.90 60ft(dam nitto's) on about 200 shot with stock ecm, fuel pressure never dropped. Just thought since you guys had these high horsepower cars that I would ask how you manage them.

------------------
87z 383,afr 190's, comp hyd roller(242/248-.540/.562,114 sep),Ported and polished mini ram, 30lb inj, 3.42 gears, tremec 5spd, , 1,3/4" slp headers, speed pro bank to bank-wb02.
"Just remember children, no man can beat you once youv'e found the cliterous." 'chef'

 

THanks for the reply.I dont have the stock ecm ,I run a Electromotive Tec II.I didnt even chance it running a chip with stock ecm.My system eliminates the distributor and the motor runs a crank trigger.I had to spend a little bit of money on a new crank pully.I also got a laptop just for the car.I didnt want to go DFI at the time,I heard tuning horror stories,Im not
an expert but dont want to buy a laptop and all and then have to paysomeone to install it.I didnt do Speed Pro,because at the time it wasent out yet,and I really wanted to go didtributorless.I didn inquire about tuning my Tec II before I purchased it and at the time they had just introduced new software,Wintec,which is real user friendly.On the first startup screen you just punch in ci,max rpm,cylinder #,estimated brake hp,an a bunch of little stuff and the computer automatically writes a startup program,setting idle,and warmup charicteristics etc.So that you can get up and running and then start fine tuning.It even tells you what injectors you need,and recomeds them by the 80% duty cycle.All in all Im happy,Im sure the Speed Pro is a great system too.Hope this helps you out.

 

WELDON!!

Don't take any shortcuts on this. I researched this issue.

And as you know, I drive it on the street.

------------------
87 Formula
406
AFR 210
miniram
vortech t-trim
55# injectors
DFI
th400 8"converter
moser 9" 3.73
convo pros

www.homepages.go.com/~thess406/Blown406Bird

 

Explain this statement you made. Your telling me your right about the regulator on the feed side? You want to comment about things you havent even used, and also dont understand how the fuel system even works to begin with. Yeah, I guess I am a jerk for making sure someone doesnt read your post and blow thier motor trying put a regulator on the feed side.

Oh yeah, I am not your father, dont even know why your comparing me to him. Too bad he didnt have any experience with performance, cause maybe then he could have helped you with simple fuel system regulator concepts.

Yeah, you can say that. I am sure plenty of other people are laughing at this post also. Too bad your responses are the punchline Only for the fact that you get upset over a message board post. You really need to get over it, and just deal with other peoples opinions, instead of spending the rest of "your" post crying about it.


Hey 87Z, I mentioned the 580RWHP car that has an article in April 99 HotRod that is about the IM240 emmisions legal T/A I put together for a friend. We used a MOTEC system which 2nd Street in Pa. dyno tuned. It would have been very hard to use stock computer for sure, especially of the large sized injectors that were used, could have fried the stock GM injector drivers Those guys can get some serious numbers out of a tune.

I hear a lot of people talking about Speed Pro. Seems like a decent system, especially for the money considering the cost of some others. hopefully I will get to mess with one when Guido installs his in the near future. You run into any problems with the Speed Pro??




[This message has been edited by Kevin G (edited February 25, 2001).]

 

Kevin,boy dont you ever give up?Well if you cant feed the rails directly threw the regulater then you could only use it to connect the rails.Explain this then,if you are to feed,lets say stock GM rails with 10AN lines,and have a 6AN return,you will raise the FP when idling and low cruising due to overpowering the return lines with an big inline pump.This is something I read about when the Regal guys used the 2 intank pump setups,2 Walbros Gss307s.They had to either lower pump voltage at cruise and idle conditions or have the second pump come on via a Hobbs switch.Factory fuel rails,most all are not even close to being 10AN,5/8 ID,inside.Your fuel system is only as big as the smallest line.If you want to feed your motor with big lines go ahead,but considering the stock lines are good to about 700hp and they are only 3/8 big says alot.Even Lingenfelter where I bought my pump from said the same thing,the lines in late model cars can flow enough fuel,way more than you think.I guess my statement comparing carb to EFI in terms of line size doesnt matter,or you just didnt read it to comment on.You up the FP so goes up the volume.You even confirm this yourself by saying you run 90psi to get more fuel into the motor.Carb runs at ,most fuel systems,7psi.EFI,40-50 psi.This disscusion is as bad as comparing boost to actual CFM #s.Most fast carb cars run 8-10AN lines,BG,Russel,go to their sites,check out their fuel system tips,no where on that site is a mention of EFI in the fuel system tips.Motors will eat almost the same amout of gas weather introduced to the motor via an injector,or a carb,at a the same hp,carb a little more,but pretty dam close.A carb system at 7 psi can only flow so much, so bends,line size matter very much,not much pressure behind that fuel,so bigger lines are needed only because of the psi the fuel is flowed at.Now imagine that same carb system at 7 psi,now up the FP to EFI levels,know what Im getting at?Now take a EFI system,at 45 psi,why would you need the same line size?You are moving more fuel because of the higher FP.FMUs work on the same concept,more fuel under boost allows you to run a smaller injector,but make it flow like a larger one when upping the PSI in the rails.On my ATI kit I ran up to 75 psi with their inline booster pump and fmu and stock intank,ran 12.6 at 111mph.Plenty of fuel.Calculate times and weight and got a rough estimate of 400hp at crank.And when first tuning,the motor spewed black smoke at any higer FP under boost.There was alot left in that system as simple as it was.With 22lb injectors.Do a search on all the car web sites you can find.Especially the turbo regal sites.These guys have a lot of feedback concerning EFI fuel systems.At the hp level Im running I dont need an expensive fuel system,I just need one that works.One other thing to consider for all you guys,a little known fact about running your whole fuel system with braided lines from tank to motor,running this setup instead of aluminum or steel lines,your system will experience a frictional losses,IOW flow restriction, because of the rubber inside and the long length of it used.Not a good Idea,considering how expensive it is to begin with.If you are doing a whole new system lines and all,better and cheaper to go with aluminum or steel.

There is one more good tidbit I found out about the Boost A Pump.Skulte expressed his concern more voltage would shorten the life of the pump,Iv heard of pump faliures with this setup. But the specifics of why i could not find.Since Walbro has used the KB system,and walidated its claims,that as voltage increases so does GPH,up to a certain level.The upper limits of the KB Boost A Pump ,18 volts,is not a voltage you should run the pump at for long periods of times.I read of users eliminating the Hobbs switch in the kit,and hot wiring the boost a pump to the pump for a constant 18volts or the 50% mark on the ****.Not a good idea.This must be some of the failurs Ive heard about.But all in all Ive heard of good experiences with the system.

The main topic behind my post here is the systems most here are commenting on are not required for most if not all street cars.Which mine mostly will be.Blown406 you might drive your car on the street but you are pushing way more hp than me,seeing your sig confirms it.For someone at my level,a healthy motor a moderate boost levels,I can get by and then some,without sumping my tank,and putting a big inline pump on my car,and changing to big fuel lines.Hey if you expect to up the motor next year or soon go ahead and do it now.But be realistic about hp levels so you can pick which system to go with,1000hp late model EFI cars dont roam the streets,at least legally anyway.There are a few here who are going to or are turning serious hp out of there cars,they have the big inline pumps,they have sumps,but they are pushing alot of hp to.Id like to know what everyone drives and their fuel mods.

So Kevin G,who are you anyway?If I pick up that copy of Hotrod 99 issue will I find your name mentioned?You are pretty good at insulting,but your responses to my questions,the ones about your so called experiences are yet to be answered.Are you going to answer them or just ignore them,like you have been doing.Im not flameing you if you can believe that but when somone quotes "built many cars"I would like to know what you actually built,if you have experience like you say you do I could go along with you response much more,and you didnt post any personal accounts about the SX pump,the Weldon pump and Various other pumps.And all you said is that you used the KB Boost a Pump to 6psi,you never said you used it on the Walbro pump,did you?Im just trying to get the full picture here.

 

On my 355 I had a TPIS intank and the NOS 1576 inline fuel pump. I had an 8:1 FMU running 13psi and I was running WAY rich. I think thats what killed my 355. washed rings.

figured I should get rid of the FMU so I did the aeromotive thing since id seen it so much and people are happy with it. I dont have the computer to put large injectors in yet so Im running NA till I can afford to upgrade to speed pro.

No pump is too big for NA if you have your ECM tuned correctly.

------------------
-86 IROC
Vortech Supercharged 406
-=ICON Motorsports=-
"Well, you're equipped to be a prostitute, but you're not one, are you?"

 

very true.....but ANY combo whatever it may be if the fuel system is made TOO BIG can be a pita to tune. that is why every application needs different pumps, fuel line sizes, and injectors.

cant we just leave it at that?


getting tired of this already racing

 

I have never dodged any questions, and I already mentioned I used all of the pumps I mentioned earlier in the post several times.

It is Eric Kangs car. It is in the magazine. If you really want to push this, e-mail him at Eric_Kang@hotmail.com. He can give you more than enough info. If you want his home phone, e-mail me @ toomuchpsi@hotmail, and I will let him know you are going to call.

Ask anyone here about the 383 Superrammed GTA I owned about 4 years ago on this board. Or maybe about the 582 N/A gross h.p. 400 Pontiac motor I built for my 70 GTO Conv. These are just my cars. I already mentined I personally used all of the pumps I talked in this post.... And I worked on many other cars over the years modding them. I worked on Cyclones, GNs, 3rd and 4th gens at the dealer,also doing side work for customers who wanted someone to mod them. What more do you want?? Call Billy Cha @ Altered Atmosphere in Md. and ask him about some work in which I have done with him.
Call Chuck @ Burtonsville Machine Service here in Maryland if you want to ask about the many different motors I had machine work done to for customers, when rebuilding their engines.

I am sure this is enough for you...but who knows, maybe it isnt.

The Weldon pump was used in the 580 RWHP car.
I quit using the Kenney Bell Boost A Pump when one day at MIR at the Tealnet shootout, it failed on me, leaning out my car big time. I had it set to come on after seeing the first 3 PSI of boost. I checked all of the connections on the setup, and all checked out.. It intermittantly didnt work several times. I called Kenney Bell and they said to ship it to them and they would take care of it..They have very good customer service. But I didnt want to take another chance with it. It did work great when it did, and was real easy to install.
Aeromotive was used on a 92 GT, which was not sumped, but had custom lines, and a modified sending unit.. It worked very well.

The Walbro pump I used 2 years ago, really a year and a half, are still being sold today. They did come out with the pump you mentioned after it. Higher pressures, it took a dump.

The NOS pump is a great unit, and made by Bosch. It it very similiar to the Accel pump that was sold a couple years back. It is easy to install, costs around 300 bucks, and will work until I do some more motor work and will upgrade to Aeromotive and bigger lines.

Big pumps overpowering the rails hasnt happened on the cars I have run or anyone elses I know that are using them. They will and are running on the street daily driven no problems. Feel free and call Weldon to ask their opinion on this if you want.

I ran a Weldon pump on Eric Ks car when it was a N/A 383 and it never overpowered the rails. The car only dynoed 382RWHP. If it overpowered the rails, the fuel pressure would rise. As mentioned seversl times in this post.


I run high pressures on my car , so do many others no problem. I upgraded to #24 SVO injectors, due to the GMs locking up. When I finish the 355, I will then upgrade to bigger injectors, aftermarket management system and a dyno tune. Like I mentioned several times already in this post, it works well they way I have it set up now. It is common for people to run FMus and run higher pressures.
Everything I mentioned is from actually using these different part combos, and seeing the results first hand.

You still havent mentioned about your error in thinking that the regulator is on the feed side "blcoking flow before the motor".

It seems you like to read a lot and, and visit message boards. Thats a good thing, but I am going off of what I have actualy used, and giving my opinions on what happened when using them. I pointed out several mistakes you made in your posts, and corrected them. If you want to call that flameing , well, then thats your problem



[This message has been edited by Kevin G (edited February 26, 2001).]

 

Yes if the injectors are big, on a low h.p. application, but fuel pump and lines will not cause huge tuning issues alone. Like I mentioned earlier if there was a rail problem with too much fuel volume, the pressures would rise,causing fits. You can run a Weldon pump on a low h.p. car like the one I mentioned no problems, with no real tuning issues what so ever. I am sure you can find an example like runing a Weldon on a yugo, and come across problem with pressure problems though. LOL I never heard of volume and pressure problems with f-bodys though with bigger pumps.



[This message has been edited by Kevin G (edited February 26, 2001).]

 

Thanks for the info Kevin,one more whats the # of the Walbro pump you have?Did KB fix your BAP?And what happened to the BAP a common faliure.Well about over powering the rails I mean raising the rail pressure under certain conditons like idle and light throttle.When I say over powering I mean the return line,If you have x amount of fuel going into the motor via a 10AN line and the engine is under none or low load, I think you can over power the return,ususally a 6AN ,with an increased fp because of the condition.I say this only because of what I see these companies selling ,like the Brain from Paxton and other simaler voltage reduction devices used to lower pump output at low load and idle conditons,and what I read of the 2 pump setups used by the TR guys,they hooked the second pumps up acordingly because they witness this condition at the load levels I mentioned.

KB service is good when you can get a hold of them,thats the hard part,but they now have a web site,well the start of one anyway.

 

i agree. you basically stated what i already said and this is no flame to you, this is for everyone

EVERY APPLICATION IS DIFFERENT AND WILL REQUIRE SOMETHING DIFFERENT MOST OF THE TIME AND THERE IS ALWAYS WAYS ABOUT GOING ABOUT IT. SOME PEOPLE SUMP IT AND RUN BIG LINES/INJECTORS. OTHERS STICK WITH AN FMU, SMALLER LINES/INJECTORS. I PERSONALLY KNOW OF A 10 SECOND STANG THAT STILL HAS STOCK LINES (BIGGER INJECTORS) AND STILL USES AN FMU

Can we drop this already. this is a tech forum
geesh

 

Hey lets keep this going J/K

89Z The failure I had with the Boost A Pump was not common at all. In fact KB has seen very few problems from what they said with the Boost A Pumps, and also guys like Ray Bohatz uses them, and he swears by the quality of them. I guess I just had some bad luck with it.

The Walbro was 55 G/Hr@50 PSI. I had no flow charts to go off of when buying the pump, and for the price I just tried it. I found out high pressures killed the volume of the pump. The best way to gain experience on something for me is to try it out. I have yanked off many parts which didnt work like I thought, or what they claimed to produce, and I am sure there will be plenty more parts being yanked off in the future.

ROC, I never viewed your last post as a flame, but can we get some people running Vortechs, cause all of these Procharged names are getting quite confusing.. Everyone knows Vortech is better anyway...LOL
Now that last response should keep the post alive..( It was a joke )

 

Well I just want to know a few things before this ends.The part# of the pump is stamped on the housing,either it is a GSS307 or GSS340,I doubt it because my pump and the 307 is rated at right around 70GPH at 50 psi.So im thinking that pump is ancient.

On another note I scraped my idea to go with alumiunum lines and go with SS from inline tube in MI.They can give me oversized lines and Im going to send them the tube nut and sleeves to mate on these line instead of using the factory Gm fittings,so that I can plumb AN lines to these.What Im finding out about the Aluminum line is it dents very easily,and I dont think it is sutible for high psi.It looks kind of sloppy to because it bends so easily,you just cant get it straight.Man am I **** or what?Dont answer that please. Im getting to dam picky with this,this is it Im going this route and thats it.I just feel safer with less connections in the system.