from what i see on the boards i think i might go with the ATI, i think is what it is called, and i have been to thier web sight BUT they dont have any prices. and when i look i dont think that they would have my application...i have an 87 Iroc with the 350tpi...what blower should i get and what are the gains...and of course how much is it? thanks

mike

and yes i have skimmed through some of the posts trying to find some answers bt yet have not found a price on anything.

 

http://www.performancess.com/

go here... do not buy direct from ATI.

you have an 87 so your belt system needs to be changed. I don't know exactly whats different but the kits assume you have an 88 or up. I'm sure it can be changed though.

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88 tpi L98 w/3.27
Aluminum DS
14.1 ET @ 101.7 (gtech) bone stock
Now ati p600b 9#, transgo manual valvebody
B&M mega shifter,24lb svo's,ati fmu, 3 core intercooler, BFG KDW's
No ET yet..

 

87's dont come with L98's, its the B2L, i think its the year before serpentine systems, thts probably the difference in the kits, and if your looking to buy a decent charger, vortech, ati, paxton etc are great, but prochargers the best out there, bit pricier too, but if you wanna go fast man, nothin like it short of a 6-71

 

the only blower you can run without changing over to serpentine is the paxton SN9X/SN2000.

just fyi

 

F those SN paxton piles, go vortech or ATI(if you can stand the whine). If you want to view pricing look at those large colored ads in most magazines, Excessive Motorsports.

www.ExcessiveMotorsports.com

I've never dealt with them, but they always advertise in GMHTP magazine and in others.

ATI: 9PSI kit, $2703
12PSI kit, $2988

Vortech: $2979

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82' Z-28. 327" w/ flat tops. 216/228/112LS. Pocket ported 041 heads 1.94/1.50 SS valves. World Class T-5 from a 91'. Best run? Runs with 2001 vette to 150mph! Soon to be converted over to TPI w/ supercharger.

 

ok thanks for all your help...but i have another question. i am thinking about buying a used 350 and rebuilding it and putting it in my 87 Iroc. now i am looking at the ATI blower. what kind of internals should i get. i have the summit racing catalog. any suggestions? would this set up work?--

summit rebuild kit with forged pistons
stage 2 connecting rods (up to 450 hp)
what crank forged/cast/steel?

what have some of you used...liked... disliked and such. i am basicly looking for low end power not up high and a daily driver. i have fairly good mechanical skills and if i cant do it i work with guys who can. again thanks for your help.

and if you do reply please e-mail me cause i am in the middle of moving out of my parents house and into an apartment and dont have my phone hooked up yet so i only check the board like 1 a week so please mail it to me at BlueRTMan@excite.com thanks again

 

Eagle SIR rods or GM PM rods before those summit rods. The PM rod is about twice as strong as that summit rod, and the Eagle better yet with ARP wavelock bolts.

You got mail!

[This message has been edited by BLOWN85/TA (edited May 31, 2001).]

 

I would stay with a cast crank, sure a steel crank is stronger, but the question is, Do you need it. A cast crank can handle a S-Load of power, but they can not stand up to as high of RPM as a Steel crank. This is because at higher RPM's the crank journals "flex" due to the forces exerted on the Piston/Rod assembly accelerating and decelerating it. Cast iron does not flex hardly at all, it breaks because it is more brittle and does not have a grain that flows with the shape of the crank. Do not get paranoid though, this takes a LOT or RPM to break a cast crank. They will stand up to about 15PSI boost, maybe more if your daring. I know a couple of people running that kind of boost on a cast crank. If you are still worried about it, look at GN's. They have an offset journal cast crank, and get run up into the 20+ PSI boost all the time, the crank is the last thing that goes. If you are going to Up-the-boost, have the machine shop put another keyway in the crank snout, so it does not shear off the single one already there. Might want to get a good steel Damper(Fluiddampr, or ATI-better). The cast iron stock one might break.

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82' Z-28. 327" w/ flat tops. 216/228/112LS. Pocket ported 041 heads 1.94/1.50 SS valves. World Class T-5 from a 91'. Best run? Runs with 2001 vette to 150mph! Soon to be converted over to TPI w/ supercharger.

 

Greenshamrock77 The GN crank comparison is really not very accurate. The GN crank is cast but has hydraulicly rolled fillets on it, so it is kind of a hybrid between cast and forged technologies. The steel crank I use is forged steel and has hydraulicly rolled fillets, thats the best technology GM performance has used yet to build cranks. The stockV8, scat or Eagle or whoever's aftermarket cast crank does NOT roll the fillets in this manner. Rolling the fillets increases the strength drasticly in a casting, thats one reason why the GN crank will live. In a boosted application I would reccommend the best bottom end you can afford.

 

<h1>If you can afford it</h1>
<ul type=circle>[*]Summit ProLine Crank</li>[*]Summit ProLine Rods</li>[*]Ross 2618(?) Forged Pistons</li>[*]Total Seal Gapless Rings</li>[*]ARP Bolts (get the strongest ones that you can afford!)</li>[/list]
Only go this route if you're trying to make SERIOUS HP! If not then you can get away with lesser $$$ parts.

 

ok...WOW...well i just found out that my engine (350tpi) really only makes about 225-245 hp stock (for some reason i was thinking more). Maybe my 500 hp goal was a little high. i still think i would like to run a blower (ATI at about 9psi maybe less or so). SO...if i had this set up with some good heads, headers, (and the usuall bolt ons) what kind of power am i looking at? I know you guys hate these questions cause they are so vauge (sp?). this is what i am looking at...a daily driver that has a kick in the pants when i want to use it (NO N2O!). and with that said what kind of internals should i be looking at? i can do all the work myself that is not a problem.

and you say if i can afford it. do you have prices on this stuff...how expensive is it?
do you guys (girls) have any suggestions on what to use (or not to use). thanks for the help still!

 

i would keep the stock bottom end, at least until it gives. in my opinion, and i think its pretty valid, if you have a set of aluminum heads(either corvette, trick flow, or the like), a full exhaust, some work on the intake, and a blower cam.. you could run 10psi from an intercooled ATI unit and make a very solid 450hp at the wheels. the mods(excluding the SC'er) would give you.. hmm, about 300-325? and the 10psi boost would easily give you 50% more on top of that.. I'm getting closer by the week to getting into SC'ing, i think it is the way to go if you want some serious neck-snapage

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• 83 Z28-- not a pretty site to look at, 200k miles and im sure it was treated like a rental car every day of its sad life(before i got it).. sold, thank the lord
• 74 Z28-- 383/400, green on black. pretty clean. FOR SALE!!!

 

well the only reason why i say change the internals is because i am buying a used 350 and going to rebuild it...so while it is apart might as well put the good stuff in. then take a couple days to swap the motor in. the only reason why i am doing this is because i have to have my car to get to work.

now about heads...i have the summit racing catalog as stated before...what heads would you recomend?

(could you e-mail me i am not going to be able to check the board for like a week---BlueRTMan@excite.com thanks alot)

 

87-bird,

If your looking for a good quailty cylinder at a decent price get a set of AFR's, check'em out at http://www.airflowresearch.com/main.html

And let me say, there's nothing more fun than, nailing the throttle, and gettin' the boost kickin' in...and hang on!!!

blown and lovin it!!!
later
larry



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MÅN¡ÅÇ ©
88 IROC 5.7L,edelbrock TES,random tech cat,borla exhaust,chip,sfc,accel wires,airfoil,k&n's,ETC..
and NOW supercharged!!!
http://maniac.megamania.com