I went to the track last night after installing a brace since last trip out. It didnt help.

I ran an 11.42 @ 119 with 1.64 60' (all uncorrected) and I STILL got belt slip. I get like 9psi up to 5400 rpms and then it slips and gets like 5 psi @ 6500 where Im shifting.

So today, I got the purchasing guy moving and I have a piece of 1/2" thick 6061 T6 aluminum coming. Im going to pull my vortech supplied bracket off, clamp it to the new piece, and trace it onto the new piece. The vortech supplied piece is only 5/16" thick.

I hope that added meat will at lest resist flexing better than what I have.



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-86 IROC
11.31 @ 120.2 mph
-=ICON Motorsports=-

 

Forgive my ignorance but, I'm wondering why the higher output centrifugal chargers don't come with Gilmer belt drives? Expense? Noise?

It seems to me that you could run much less tension on the belt (less strain on bearings and brackets) and not worry about slipping. You could probably run a more narrow belt too.

[This message has been edited by Brent (edited September 06, 2001).]

 

The 1/2" aluminum bracket will help,but you will still get some deflection.I made mine and Tory's out of 1/2" aluminum,and the blower still has some flex.You will still need a brace.Are you going to use the power steering?That will be the most dificult part about making the bracket(stand off's need to be just right for proper belt alignment).Now is the time to start thinking about the Flaming River steering box!You may also want to consider Cogs.I know you don't want to hear it,but that may be the ticket to your 10.?? time slip.Just my .02

 

Gee,I cant keep the belt on ,and you cant keep it from slipping.You are running the 6 rib right?If you are going to make a bracket use at least 3/4 inch.And a call to ASP to get you some 8 rib drive pullys.Im as this moment contemplating going to a 8 rib to solve my problems since a 12 rib is much to much headaches right now for me to get it working like I want.Make your own studs,with a thicker bracket and more ribs will most likly do the trick.Although how many belt ribs you have doesnt really help you in getting more tracktion,what does is belt wrap of the drive and driven pullys.Maybe an addition of another idler might help if properly placed

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Check out my Hompage,or the beginnings of one.355 dynoed at 400HP at 5800RPM & 410LBFT of TQ,on Motorhttp://www.procharged89z.cz28.com/index.html

 

I already have 8 rib belts.


I think 1/2" is about as thick as you can go with a vortech because there are bosses on the blower for the tensioner to bolt onto and the bracket slides behind those and 1/2" is about as much room as there is to squeeze a bracket in there.

Don, I dont have power steering. It is not an issue for me. I havent had it for quite some time. I sent a check the other day for an S10 manual steering box. $50 compared to the craziness that flaming river wants for their bega box and kit.

When I have some "extra money" I will do the flaming river kit but that probably wont be for a while.

Here is my 8-rib

 

I agree with Supercharged89Z,I have a 12 rib system and the belt starts slipping around 12lbs of boost and actually bent the bracket.I called ASP (1-281-261-8845,ask for lee) and they can design a pulley system for you,cog or serpentine.I had a 50mm cog set designed that should be here today.I did have to fabricate a 3/4" piece of aluminum rod using heim joints,one that threads into one of the 3/8-16 threaded holes on the bottom of the supercharger to the side of the core support.The system is set up for 28lbs of boost,hopefully this will cure it.Hope this helps you too.Good luck.

 

I cant put cogs on this blower. It is a normal s-trim. It does not have the heavy duty bearings with Vortech recomends having to use cogs on an s-trim.

I also dont want to spend the money to upgrade to HD bearings, then spend another 5 bills on a cog setup.

Ive already bought the materials for a turbo conversion this winter...

No expensive cog belts or flexing brackets with a turbo.

 

Damn Right!

 

Looks good,keep us updated on the new combo and if you break into the 10's with your supercharger. P.S.How many cubes are you running?

 

P.P.S. Do you know anyone wanting a brand new H.D. R-Trim supercharger unit?

 

I'll trade you my S-trim!

Check out my webpage for my mods.

http://home.webworks2000.net/guido

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-86 IROC
11.31 @ 120.2 mph
-=ICON Motorsports=-

 

Actually,I bought the R-Trim and wanted to make more power,so I swapped it out for a YS-trim V-7.The only run time on it is about 10 min.,enough to seat the piston rings.I'll keep my ears open for you.

 

Man, my brother's D-1 on his Iroc has never had a belt throwing issue, and does not slip. Most likely due to the newer 3/4 thick bracket and 5 mounting holes. Gets a pretty good wrap on the compressor pulley too. Good luck at the track.

 

How the heck does that bracket have 5 mounting holes?The utmost you can possible get is 4.I had 3 with the P600B,and the new D1SC brackets have 3 also,but may be redesigned to 4.I have never heard of an ATI Iroc bracket with 5 mounting holes,unless it is not by ATI.I say this cause Ive been on the phone the past week with Dorian going over everything with him.Its easy to throw a 12 rib belt compared to a 6 or 8 rib,the belt is so dam stiff there is no compromise at all if it is off by a hair it will throw,but I have had the 8 rib on my P600B,it had some slip but the belt wrap wasent even as half as good as the new SC model setup.I am seriously leaning towards the 8 rib.Guido,adding some well placed idlers do wonders for the traction of the belt.ATI sells them with the mounting spacer,and it will work out for what you need to do.


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Check out my Hompage,or the beginnings of one.355 dynoed at 400HP at 5800RPM & 410LBFT of TQ,on Motorhttp://www.procharged89z.cz28.com/index.html

 

I get plenty of wrap.

Another tensioner would make the ribs of the belt touch each other.