Well, I am going to first convert from CFI to the Holley 2" 670 CFM TBI setup. Then, I am going to try to find a Garrett from a 7.3L Power Stroke, or something, and begin building a single turbo setup.
I need to buy a bonnet from K&N, or somebody, and then hit the junkyards for that turbo I described. I will be running this with the Holley Commander 950.
I am also going to read the "Turbo Charging" book from cover to cover before I do anything.

Has anyone here ever done a SINGLE turbo setup? I know the basic theory of how it all works. I am not asking for an explanation. I just want to see if anyone has done it.

Too bad I don't own an Oldsmobile - Half of my exhaust plumbing problems would be solved!

 

CFI to TBI? That's like going from a Yugo to a Chevette. lmao

 

Oh, it's you...... Never mind. LMAO

[This message has been edited by XFire83 (edited November 26, 2001).]

 

As im sure your well away of jonas's blown crossfire why would you want to toss the induction for another tbi. The crossfire flow only sucks at atmospheric pressure..cram some boost down there and all that goes out the window. Jonas is getting over 300hp out of his vette. It would be simplier and cheaper to retain the stock system. I for one would love to see a turbo crossfire

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1984 Z51 Auto, Ported and polished intake, K&N, MSD, Ram air/Cold air intake, no cat, no AIR, no egr, no swirls plates

 

Believe me, I have thought about doing a twin turbo Cross-Fire.......

 

One major flaw with this plan is the use of injectors that will not flow enough fuel at boost. TBI injectors flow is a function of pressure differential ... when the environment they are in is at say 10 psi and the fuel pressure is at say 18 psi, that equates to an 8 psi differential... the same flow as an injector functioning at 8 psi in atmospheric pressure. So you see as you increase boost, you have to raise fuel pressure to maintain the same flow. Add this to an injector that will only support about 350 hp in naturally aspirated form, a motor that will need to run at a higher BSFC because its now boosted and an injector that cant be run above 18psi, you are looking at enough fuel to support a max of around 210 hp at 10 psi boost with 18psi fuel pressure on a holley 85# injector.

A way around the fueling issue might be to use a GM injector / pod on a holley TBI unit or a GM 454 TBI unit so as to not run up against the 18 PSI barrier... This combined with some kind of FMU that will increase your fuel pressure with boost will probably support the HP you will make (if you give more details on the whole package, we might be able to help figure out that part).

How do you plan on handeling the tuning aspect?

 

talk to jonas, he is running an boost controlled fpr, with vacuum its around 13psi at 10psi boost hes at 18-20psi (i cant remember) he's done no tuning and says it runs well but is very rich at full boost.

 

Nick is right,

I am still using stock TBI's with stock injectors on a stock manifold. (heads and cam is also stock)
I am rich at WOT at 5000 RPM (10 psi boost in the manifold). At that point the fuel pressure over the injector is 23 psi. Without boost the fuel pressure is 13 psi.
When measured with a fuel gauge the fuel pressure goes up from 13 psi to 33 psi. (33 psi = 10 psi boost + 23 psi fuel presure)
I measured close to 300 rwhp at 5000 RPM.



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Jonas Bylund

 

hey jonas, would you condider making an air box like yours for our friend here. I don't have cross-fire, I have a q-jet, but I might follow your lead. any idea how much a box like yours would cost to make, and how much if it was for just one carb/tb.

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neko
'87 trans am
car in the making
angelfire.com/fl2/neko

 

Sorry, but I don't even have enough time to finish my own projects.

I designed the box myself, and made the parts from sheet aluminum.



http://w1.601.telia.com/~u60113742/air_box/air_box.htm

Then I had a metal shop weld the pieces together.

I bought the aluminum at a metal scrap yard ( recycling metal ). It cost me about $20 (more aluminum than I needed), scrap aluminum is not expensive.

The welding costed $50.

You could use your existing air-filter assembly as a template and outline the shape on aluminum sheet metal and use hand tools to create the pieces.

I used 10mm (3/8") thick aluminum for the lid and base, and 5mm (3/16") for the sides.

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Jonas Bylund



[This message has been edited by JoBy (edited December 12, 2001).]