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Old Nov 11, 2006 | 02:23 AM
  #1  
WaaX's Avatar
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From: Saint Clair Shores, Michigan
Car: 1985 IROC
Engine: 350 TPI (block was swapped)
Transmission: 700r4 w/corvette servo
Axle/Gears: no idea
Turbo noob questions.

Im starting to seriously consider doing a single junkyard turbo setup. I would want to do it as budget friendly as I possibly can, im talking cheap. Whats considered a safe amount of boost to push on a stock 1979 4 bolt main 350? Im running a carb setup and I know I would have to get a blow through carb. What about oil lines, do I just tap into my oil pan? Would my cam affect me adversley? I dont know anything about cams and boost. In fact I dont really know anything about turbos. Im just trying to make my car as fast as possible as cheaply as I can. How much money should I expect to invest into this? I mean I expect to have to spend a good chunk of cash to get this going, but I just want cheap used parts, other than the carburetor. What kind of turbos should I be looking for? I dont really think it will be hard at all to do this. Is it a pain in the rear installing a turbo? I know im asking a lot of questions, I dont know much about turbos at all. I really appreciate any help you guys give me.
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Old Nov 11, 2006 | 06:40 AM
  #2  
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: '85 TA
Engine: 350 turbo
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.70 posi 9bolt
Try reading this thread:
http://www.turbomustangs.com/smf/ind...?topic=38388.0
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Old Nov 11, 2006 | 02:47 PM
  #3  
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From: Saint Clair Shores, Michigan
Car: 1985 IROC
Engine: 350 TPI (block was swapped)
Transmission: 700r4 w/corvette servo
Axle/Gears: no idea
Originally Posted by calebzman
That was very informative.. thanks =]

Ill be checking out turbos in the junkyards I live near.. see what kind of selection I have.
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Old Nov 11, 2006 | 08:08 PM
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From: garage
Engine: 3xx ci tubo
Transmission: 4L60E & 4L80E
I think installing a single is cheaper than a dual setup. If you do an IC setup, the second charge pipes, couplings, T-bolt clamps add up quick.

You are probably better off looking at the diesel truck junkyards before the auto junkyards. At the auto yards you will need two turbos. If you are trying to do it cheap, then don't worry about the cam and everything else. That cam isn't really good for a turbo app, but who really cares because you will have an extra 100+ HP and will be happy with that.
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 03:35 PM
  #5  
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BDR
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From: San Antonio Texas
Car: '91 Camaro
Engine: Mild 283
Transmission: TH400
Originally Posted by junkcltr
I think installing a single is cheaper than a dual setup. If you do an IC setup, the second charge pipes, couplings, T-bolt clamps add up quick.
QFT.

tubing/coupling (alum and silicone)/t-bolt clamps add up... what is expensive as hell is buying all the AN fittings/braided line. Dont ask how much I've spent in the past MONTH for just that.
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 03:58 PM
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From: garage
Engine: 3xx ci tubo
Transmission: 4L60E & 4L80E
The AN and S/S line adds up quick too. The second downpipe can get pretty expensive, but usually one large downpipe costs the same as two smaller downpipes. From my calcs, the single downpipe is cheaper. If two external wastegates are needed then the price goes through the roof.

I priced out AN and S/S for my original twin setup. I ended up with steel and brass SAE fittings for much less than AN and S/S. Using steel line allows for less clamps. I did use -10 AN and S/S line for the oil return lines for reliability (heater hose doesn't like oil). When ever I use AN and S/S I try to use straight AN ends for cheaper cost. I make the bends at the source / destination out of steel or alum so the match up to straight AN hose ends. The "bend" hose ends are usually out of the price range for the engines that I build.

The only time a twin seems worth it is when the turbos are really cheap or when a big single costs far more than two smaller twins (non-race-class 1200+ FWHP projects). That is simply my opinion. Some people claim twins spool faster but I haven't seen any real data showing that it is true or even noticable....like more than 300 RPM difference.
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 05:20 PM
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From: Baltimore, MD
Car: 09 Cobalt SS Sedan. 92 Z28 vert
Engine: 2.0T EFR6758; 5.0TT T3/T4 8psi
Transmission: F40; 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.76 LSD; 3.23 posi
I bought all of my oil lines for my twin setup from McMaster.com. I paid about $86 for EVERYTHING:

At the bottom of page 225 of the online catalog you'll find them.

Smooth-Bore PTFE Hose with Stainless Steel Wire Braid: 37° Flare JIC Swivel Female brass fittings on Both Ends.

ANsize | Threads
-4an = 7/16"-20
-6an = 1/2"-20
-8an = 9/16"-18
-10an = 7/8"-14

These will bolt to any existing AN fittings and you can even get brass/Al/SS fittings from mcmaster (brass for really cheap) if you look for "tube fittings". Also it doesn't really matter if you mix up 37 and 45degree fittings.
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 05:23 PM
  #8  
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A summit cam kit's like $70 and the springs are another $35 or so if you use Z28 springs. It's definitely worth it to do a cam, smog cams don't have much in the way of lift or duration, not to mention that the springs are probably shot and the timing chain's probably worn. Replacing all the above should be under $150. Besides that a big diesel turbo is a good idea, If you want integral wastegates a set of 6.5L diesel or Cummins 5.9L turbochargers would work well. They also have the advantage of an integral waste gate. In single the Powerstroke 7.3L turbocharger is supposedly good for around 550hp, It's cousin the 6.0L powerstroke turbo is what I want for my 305, they're good for ~450hp supposedly.
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Old Nov 22, 2006 | 09:49 AM
  #9  
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From: garage
Engine: 3xx ci tubo
Transmission: 4L60E & 4L80E
Originally Posted by ttypecamaro
I bought all of my oil lines for my twin setup from McMaster.com. I paid about $86 for EVERYTHING:

At the bottom of page 225 of the online catalog you'll find them.

Smooth-Bore PTFE Hose with Stainless Steel Wire Braid: 37° Flare JIC Swivel Female brass fittings on Both Ends.

ANsize | Threads
-4an = 7/16"-20
-6an = 1/2"-20
-8an = 9/16"-18
-10an = 7/8"-14

These will bolt to any existing AN fittings and you can even get brass/Al/SS fittings from mcmaster (brass for really cheap) if you look for "tube fittings". Also it doesn't really matter if you mix up 37 and 45degree fittings.
That sounds about right. It also sounds like you didn't use oil restrictors for the turbos or made your own. The cheapest I found them was $14 each. Basically, a 1/8" NPT fitting with a .060" hole in it. I would have made them but couldn't find brass with a hole less than or equal to .060".
Check out www.fittingsandadapters.com for brass & steel fittings also.
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Old Nov 22, 2006 | 10:37 AM
  #10  
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From: Baltimore, MD
Car: 09 Cobalt SS Sedan. 92 Z28 vert
Engine: 2.0T EFR6758; 5.0TT T3/T4 8psi
Transmission: F40; 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.76 LSD; 3.23 posi
I didn't use restrictors, and I haven't had any problems, yet. I have an old truck block with the 1/8NPT oil hole above the timing cover that I use for the turbos.

That website is really cheap for fittings.
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Old Nov 28, 2006 | 04:08 PM
  #11  
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BDR
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From: San Antonio Texas
Car: '91 Camaro
Engine: Mild 283
Transmission: TH400
$86? wow, you got off cheap.. I'm easily over $300-400..have to check my receipts for a true figure...but it was a couple hundred
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