Right now I'm running a 383 with flat top hyper pistons, 72cc Pro Topline heads. I'm looking into putteing a 144 or 177 blower on it and I want to know if my cam will work with it. I know a lot of you guys say that smaller cams work better so...

Here are the specs: Its a CompCam

Advertised Duration: 292/292
Duration @ .050: 244/244

501 lift

What do you guys think?

 

That cam will work.. its not that big.. I am a firm believer of having a duration split though..

I have a cam with 234/244 duration, 112 centerline, and it has 519/537 lift with 1.65 harland shap roller rockers.. it is a crane cam

I dont have a ton of vacume (10lbs)but the car has a nice idle and makes close to 700hp at only 8-9psi of procharger boost

the bigger the engine the bigger the camshaft you can run! that cam would be mild in a 383..

 

sorry to butt in, but I have searched about this, and it's on the same topic. are cams made specifically for blowers really that much more effective than a small cam? Here's my situation; I'm toying with the notion of building a 350 SBC to run on 8 psi from a Weiand 144 blower (eveything else is planned, CR, rotating assembly, fueling, etc). it's gonna be a daily driver and I'm building this engine for a powerband as close to idle-5000 rpm as possible. however I can't seem to find a blower cam that fits that powerband description, should I order a custom grind (worried about costs, don't know how much they are), or just buy a small cam?

 

I would say yes..

Blowers usually add RPMS to a cams profile.. so if your max RPM is 5000.. you might actually spin 5200 or 5300rpms..

In all honistly you want a centerline in the 112-114 range and 224-234 duration and .480-500 lift..

Its not going to hurt your enigne to spin 6000 and it should have a great idle..

Summit racing makes a cheap cam in this range that i have tried that idles like stock and makes great power and would work great with a blower..

 

It will work. It will probabily work better if you advance it a little further. 2 to 4 degrees further than camcard spec.
(earlier exhaust opening point).
It may not be ideal, but its not really that far off. If you already own it and want to use it in your blower motor, go ahead. It will need a high stall converter and a bit of rear gear . 3500rpm stall best.

Picking a cam for a blower as far as the "Size" of it goes ( cam duration) is not much different than picking the right cam for a N/A motor.
Pick it's Duration based on the RPM range you want to use.
A "blower cam" generally, will have less overlap (wider LSA)
than one for a N/A motor, and *can* benefit with extra exhaust duration, especialy if the exhaust is restricted. If the exhaust is not restricted (good port design) then a single pattern cam is fine on a blower motor, especially with open exhaust.
Most people will tell you to get a cam ground on 112 to 114LSA, with extra exhaust duration (dual pattern).
As a general rule they are right. But the cam you now have has two things going for it. 1. you have it already. 2. its not that far off from being a "blower cam" A N/A 383 would want a cam ground on 105 to 108LSA to make max torque. Yours is on 110 so it has reduced overlap (for a 383 cam) making it near idea for a blown 383. Blower motors depend on getting the exhaust out. Blower motors depend more on the exhaust opening point ("blowdown") more than the closing point of the exhaust cycle ( header scavedging) to get rid of the exhaust. By advancing the cam a little further than usual you are increasing the blowdown point and decreasing the scavedging (to prevent any overscavedging)
Thus making the cam you have more blower friendly.
I would degree it in a move it advanced to a 102-104 intake centerline (106in C/L is what the card calls for.)
With 72cc heads and flat top pistons you'll have to go easy on the blower boost and use lots of retard for pump gas, or use high octane fuel. E85 fuel would be ideal. Will allow lots of boost and power with nil or little retard.
Hyper pistons are strong but won't take sever detonation and preignition. So you do not want to $get the tuning wrong$. You cr is high for a "pump gas" blower motor. I would not attempt more than 4PSI and use lots of retard.
High octane E85 fuel or 110octane race gas would allow 10-12PSI boost and make a ton of reliable power. Water/alchol injection is another option.
I'd be looking into E85 thu.

You could: open up the combustion chambers ( deshroud) to 80cc's and switch to a .060" thick head gasket to lower the cr. to a more pump gas friendly 8.5:1 cr. This will allow more boost (about 8PSI) and power, and/or less timing retard with reliability.

The key is to $avoid detonation$.

 

us Crane number 113801 HMV278-2. Its a sweet, sweet street blower cam that's "just right" for your build. 278-290 222-234@.050 .467"-.494" 114LSA. if you like you can run 1.6 rockers on the intake side for near equal valve lift .498"in -.494"ex.