I've been thinking about mounting my fuel injectors under my blower. I brought the idea up and a machinist (not an engines guy) said that the only thing that cools the blower is the fuel going thru it.

I then asked him why all the Ford Super Coupes and Grand Prix GTP's don't melt blowers left and right. Of course he didn't have an answer for me.

BUT that raises the question I have now. Is there any shread of validity to this? I would think not but I'm not pulling my favors at the machine shop for a pipe dream...

thanks!

 

I've seen it done

 

My buddy has a supercoupe. That's a much different blower than a weiand 142 isn't it? I forget the type, Eaton? Why is that the brand that comes to mind? Anyway, it's not a roots type is it?
Ok, main point was that supercoupes have factory intercoolers as well. Oh yea, and they use a separate oiling system, maybe it has provisions to be cooled?

 

It's not a direct comparison between the 142 and the Eaton. The Eaton has helical 3-lobe rotors, mine are straight 2-lobe. The intercooler is after the blower so that wouldn't make a difference in blower heat itself...I suppose.

sleepybu, any specifics on the setup you saw?

 

It was in a car mag

 

Supposedly the fuel makes the "seal" better between the rotors, but at the same time Detroit Diesels that ran 6 or 8-71 blowers didn't have the luxury of running fuel/air mix into their roots blowers. That being said I'd be curious as to if the B&Ms are manufactured tighter because the rotors wouldn't heat as much due to the fuel cooling them and the metal wouldn't expand as much. Just some random thoughts.

 

I plan on getting the rotors coated with an abradable coating. Once lapped in I should have a .002" rotor/case clearance

I don't think the seal will get any better than that!

 

The blower sits so damned low on the manifold I can't imagine how you'd get them angled significantly towards the intake valve. If you could figure your way around that I'm sure it would work.

The two times I had rotor-to-case contact with my 142 was when it got severely heat-soaked and then restarted- and that's even with the carb sitting on top spraying things down with fuel. Out of the box the 142 uses a tight fit between the (metal) tips of the rotors and the case. Apparently when things get real hot the clearance goes to zero and you tear it up (And no, I didn't over-tighten the bolts. And yes, I did check clearance with feeler gagues per instructions before starting it up). Since having it rebuilt with teflon tips I've experienced no such problems. If it gets tight it just wears the teflon down a bit more without causing damage to the metal components.

 

Wasting time on the internet, saw this thought it looked interesting




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Although that's not what the opening between the blower and manifold looks like on a 142 that's probably roughly like what you would have to do to make it work. And again, injectors not individually pointed directly down the intake ports- just spraying into the plenum area.