I have a 100 wet shot of nitrous and I'm wondering what ngk plugs to get for my car. I want them to give me good performance wether I'm on the spray or not. my stuff is in my sig and soon im gonna be adin some more mods to boost performance.
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Well if you want to use a ngk a tr6 would work good. Personally I like the autolite racing plugs the drawback would be is they don't last very long. The one's I use in my car are a ar133 with a 150 shot and they work awesome. Still the stock motor untouched internally L98. It still got good mileage I didn't really notice a difference.Just my.02
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I don't mean to hijack but sprayed 92 what were your times with the 150 shot? I have an internally stock l98 with spray... haven't yet been to the track but I am worried to spray a big shot like 150.... any advice?
ok well the tr6 are on step colder than stock correct?
Stock Delco plugs will work perfectly.
150+ works just fine on an L98.
150+ works just fine on an L98.
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150+ works just fine on an L98.
DO NOT use stock plugs...they may work a few times, but at under $20 for a new set of plugs that are correct, its really not worth the savings of using stock plugs. Originally Posted by TexasSilhouette
Stock Delco plugs will work perfectly.150+ works just fine on an L98.
And this question has been asked probably a billion times, do a search...
NGK TR-6's or Autolite 103's gapped at .035
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Well with the stock tpi setup it went 12.3@109
Now with the HSR on it it went 11.9@113.
I have also spent alot of time with a wideband in the car leaning out my kit because is was so rich. Currently I've put 10 10lb bottles thru the motor and zero problems. Heck I'm even running 10* initial timing
My advice would be to buy a wideband and weld an o2 bung in your exhaust after the cat and make a pass your target air/fuel ratio would be 11.8-12.0. Now my car on the other hand mine is 12.5 but I don't recommend that because my setup is more of a max effort and if it blows no big deal I'll replace stuff.Also if you hear the motor ping let out lol.
Now with the HSR on it it went 11.9@113.
I have also spent alot of time with a wideband in the car leaning out my kit because is was so rich. Currently I've put 10 10lb bottles thru the motor and zero problems. Heck I'm even running 10* initial timing
My advice would be to buy a wideband and weld an o2 bung in your exhaust after the cat and make a pass your target air/fuel ratio would be 11.8-12.0. Now my car on the other hand mine is 12.5 but I don't recommend that because my setup is more of a max effort and if it blows no big deal I'll replace stuff.Also if you hear the motor ping let out lol.

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Now with the HSR on it it went 11.9@113.
I have also spent alot of time with a wideband in the car leaning out my kit because is was so rich. Currently I've put 10 10lb bottles thru the motor and zero problems. Heck I'm even running 10* initial timing
My advice would be to buy a wideband and weld an o2 bung in your exhaust after the cat and make a pass your target air/fuel ratio would be 11.8-12.0. Now my car on the other hand mine is 12.5 but I don't recommend that because my setup is more of a max effort and if it blows no big deal I'll replace stuff.Also if you hear the motor ping let out lol.
Thanks sprayed! those numbers are pretty decent for stock with a shot..... I have some bolt ons so I am hoping that I come close to your numbers....Originally Posted by Sprayed92
Well with the stock tpi setup it went 12.3@109Now with the HSR on it it went 11.9@113.
I have also spent alot of time with a wideband in the car leaning out my kit because is was so rich. Currently I've put 10 10lb bottles thru the motor and zero problems. Heck I'm even running 10* initial timing
My advice would be to buy a wideband and weld an o2 bung in your exhaust after the cat and make a pass your target air/fuel ratio would be 11.8-12.0. Now my car on the other hand mine is 12.5 but I don't recommend that because my setup is more of a max effort and if it blows no big deal I'll replace stuff.Also if you hear the motor ping let out lol.
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Quote:
And this question has been asked probably a billion times, do a search...
NGK TR-6's or Autolite 103's gapped at .035
What about a colder step of AC Delcos.... I prefer to use them more than the other brands....Originally Posted by WheelsUp84z
DO NOT use stock plugs...they may work a few times, but at under $20 for a new set of plugs that are correct, its really not worth the savings of using stock plugs. And this question has been asked probably a billion times, do a search...
NGK TR-6's or Autolite 103's gapped at .035
i bought the ngk tr6 today. tom. they will go in then ima retime it put in new coil and distributor cap. see how it all goes.
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i cant honestly say, because everyone that i know of that uses nitrous the NGK's or the AL's. They cost about the same as delco plugs and have be tried and trued, so why not go with them?Originally Posted by Imthebriman
What about a colder step of AC Delcos.... I prefer to use them more than the other brands.... oh and the plugs will work good w/o nitrous too right? the ngk tr6
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Yup it will still run just fine N/A with those spark plugs. It may loose a little power from the timing lose but still run fine.
what about a 100-150 shot on a 156K mileage L98 that is running in tip top shape?
lol i want nitrous bad hehe
also with the 150 shot your suppose to retard timing like 6 degrees. Do you do that with the base timing of the motor (turning distributor) or in the chip Spark tables to take out timing everywhere in the motor at all rpms/LV8 values?
Or do you only really need to change the timing in the max LV8 at WOT values in the chip's spark advance table, so you can keep your timing advanced everywhere else for better driving power when off the bottle?
that way when the motor goes WOT and the nitrous comes on, it will still be 6 degrees retarded at all rpms ranges under full engine load. but when you get off the bottle and are driving you have best timing for max power everywhere else
lol i want nitrous bad hehealso with the 150 shot your suppose to retard timing like 6 degrees. Do you do that with the base timing of the motor (turning distributor) or in the chip Spark tables to take out timing everywhere in the motor at all rpms/LV8 values?
Or do you only really need to change the timing in the max LV8 at WOT values in the chip's spark advance table, so you can keep your timing advanced everywhere else for better driving power when off the bottle?
that way when the motor goes WOT and the nitrous comes on, it will still be 6 degrees retarded at all rpms ranges under full engine load. but when you get off the bottle and are driving you have best timing for max power everywhere else
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lol i want nitrous bad hehe
also with the 150 shot your suppose to retard timing like 6 degrees. Do you do that with the base timing of the motor (turning distributor) or in the chip Spark tables to take out timing everywhere in the motor at all rpms/LV8 values?
Or do you only really need to change the timing in the max LV8 at WOT values in the chip's spark advance table, so you can keep your timing advanced everywhere else for better driving power when off the bottle?
that way when the motor goes WOT and the nitrous comes on, it will still be 6 degrees retarded at all rpms ranges under full engine load. but when you get off the bottle and are driving you have best timing for max power everywhere else
well if its at 156k and hasnt been freshened, i would stay with the 100 shot if you want to keep it for a while. If its been rebuilt the 150 should be fine. Nitrous usually like 2* per 50hp shot as a rule of thumb, but every engine is different, so check the plugs after the first use and go from there. The timing should be taken out of total, not initial. Something to look into is like a mallory 685 box or MSD digital 6, They both pull timing automatcially when the nitrous is activated. or you can get a single stage retard box and manually turn it down via a dial, anytime you race with the nitrous.Originally Posted by Orr89RocZ
what about a 100-150 shot on a 156K mileage L98 that is running in tip top shape?
lol i want nitrous bad hehealso with the 150 shot your suppose to retard timing like 6 degrees. Do you do that with the base timing of the motor (turning distributor) or in the chip Spark tables to take out timing everywhere in the motor at all rpms/LV8 values?
Or do you only really need to change the timing in the max LV8 at WOT values in the chip's spark advance table, so you can keep your timing advanced everywhere else for better driving power when off the bottle?
that way when the motor goes WOT and the nitrous comes on, it will still be 6 degrees retarded at all rpms ranges under full engine load. but when you get off the bottle and are driving you have best timing for max power everywhere else
well i can burn my own chips so i could adjust my total timing anyway i want. i have multiple chips so i can put in a n/a tune or a nitrous tune whenever i want. 
i'd rather just do a cam swap right now just for that power thats there all the time. And for that lopey sound lol

i'd rather just do a cam swap right now just for that power thats there all the time. And for that lopey sound lol
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The stock delco is probably the R45TS, a few steps colder would be R43 or R42T or TS.
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Last week I put in the R42TS and I have yet to spray..... I should be okay right?Originally Posted by Sonix
The stock delco is probably the R45TS, a few steps colder would be R43 or R42T or TS. Supreme Member
Yep, that's what i'd do.
I run the R42T ( the S means extended reach IIRC, so it makes it a tad hotter I think). If your ignition system is stock i'd also close up the plug gap as mentioned above, .035" might be best.
I run the R42T ( the S means extended reach IIRC, so it makes it a tad hotter I think). If your ignition system is stock i'd also close up the plug gap as mentioned above, .035" might be best.



