Anyone run a separate oiling system for a blower or turbo-s?

They don't use allot of oil or need allot of PSI so it shouldn't cost a bunch ehy?

Tips, directions?

I could then run the blower on the high mile engine and not share oil, and need not to worry as thats the only chance of damage for the blower is sharing oil on a motor still goin strong but over 220,000miles. I can drive while the low mile one I got to build gets done right. Which means slow to afford the good stuff.

If it won't kill me to run its own mini oiling system, I fear not.

 

the hardest part is putting the drain fitting in your pan usually you have to remove the pan to drill the hole and NOT let the fitting get wiped out by the crank ive seen some guys do that and ended up buyin a new pan casue the fitting was clipped by the crank and it wiped out the pan

 

i dont see why u couldnt. some of the prochargers are self contained oil systems i/e drain and fill plugs on the unit itself. for a turbo, the subarus use a seperate coolant resivor, i imagine you could use a small pump and resivor for an oiling system.

 

I've thought about this before aswell. I even thought about using a small power steering pump to push the oil all the way back to my remote turbo settup. I think I might use an electric pump. Maybe one that can handle oil. A small oil cooler before the pump and temp shouldn't be an issue...

 

finnally a reply i feel like an overly expert on, im running 4 turbos on my 496 block and in the rear im running an sts setup but custom to my needs and im running an stand alone oil system...these are the guys you need to talk about for an oil pump, dont go cheap on this part....

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htm

now for the oil tank, i got a 1 gallon air tank off of amazon of amazon for 35 bucks and the plumbing is self explained...and the turbos do need about 30 psi....any more questions love to help...

 

If you drive it on the street then I highly recommend an oil temp. sensor in that tank and an oil cooler. I think you will be surprised how hot that oil is when you don't have the engine coolant bringing the temperature down.

 

heres my suggestion/idea

if you have a manual transmission, get an AT radiator and run the oil through the trans cooler passages in the radiator.

seems like a win win to me unless i am missing something

a) no contamination of turbo oil
b) oil stays around 20* warmer than coolant, in my case, would be 190*
c) no tapping into stock oil system, so if your turbo fails or a connection goes, you don't loose engine oil
d) you can use different weight oil for your turbo and engine if your needs require it
...

 

And what guarantee do you have that the trans cooler is rated for engine oil pressures? The tans line only sees low pressures.

 

Huh? GM auto trans operate at pretty high pressures compared to most transmissions. Also, turbos need very little oil pressure 5 psi, 10 max.

 

i thought trans pressure was in the 200 psi range, which should be more than sufficient for a turbo at 10 psi.
then again, i dont have the "years of experience" that you claim to have on every topic so i am sure you are right...

 

A very good idea and probably the only way to do it without over heating the turbo oil. A heat exchanger is required for a street app.

 

You will destroy the turbo running it at that low of a pressure.

Yes, the pressure internal to the transmission is pretty high.

 

The trans oil cooler line does not see full pump pressure, it's a lowered pressure not at all at engine oil levels

 

The entire pressure issue doesn't matter here. The trans. fluid pressure is very low going to the cooler. The turbo oil pressure out of the turbo should be low. The pressure into the turbo may be up to 60 psi, but the outlet pressure is very low. An appropriate return pump should be used along with the appropriate feed pump. Overall, a complicated setup and doesn't make much sense to use.

Running a complicated setup like this will probably destroy the power adder much sooner than just using the engine oil. The engine has an oil filter on it.

 

you can not plumb the turbo outlet through a cooler any restriction or even an upward section of drain line will cause the oil to bypass the turbo bearing housing seals, the turbo oil drain is by gravity only. Added to that, the oil coming out of the turbo is whipped up a lot, that's why you need large diameter drain lines. the only feasible way would be to fab a drain tank below the turbo that is scavenged by a remote pump, the tank needs to be open to atmosphere or you'll be sucking the oil out of the turbo bearings. A lot of work for no gain, a regular oil cooler setup should be sufficient. The single stage scavenge pump is the way turbos mounted lower than crank case levels are scavenged (the proper ones like callaway's stuff, not the stuff with the little electric water pumps, I mean an actual belt driven single stage scavenge pump, a partial dry sump section often also used as a rear end pump)

 

why cant you run a cooler before the oil pump like follows.....tank....oil cooler...filter...pump...turbo...gravity drain back to the tank...use a cheap pump and see what happens...better spend the money on the pump i suggested...its the same pump STS sells in there kits...

 

The STS pump sits at the tank and pumps oil back to the engine. There is essentially zero inlet restriction so it can pump.

Your setup has the pump trying to suck through a cooler and filter. Too much restriction and it won't pump reliably. If you move the filter and cooler to the other side then it is too much pressure to the cooler depending on the chosen unit. That is what is being talked about here. If you could make it turbo, gravity, cooler, tank then it would be OK. But you need a large diameter pipe cooler and that isn't going to happen with a rear mount with ground clearance already being a problem.

Best bet is to put an inline filter from the engine oil to the turbo if "dirty" oil could be an issue. Run the regular siphon pump back to the oil pan.

 

you dont have a clue what your talking about....before you go and dis my system....1 you can have any restricton in the outlet of the turbo drain so putting any cooler or anything extra in that will cause blow-by in the turbo itself....two yes they use oil pumps just like the ones i showed you on sts systems and they just scavenge the oil back to the pan....but they can produce 40psi...plenty for a turbo on the pressure aspect...so do what you want, i have my system...and i did all the research and called the company...the pump isnt really having to put that much effort in pulling the oil through the cooler when the tank/cooler/pump are all level either....do a tad bit of research....

 

Inline filter from the engine oil, this whole thread is about a stand alone system....woah you are lost...

 

hey Gumby ok this is the system I'm making have a 2 quart tank under the air filter on the passage side and one on the driver side under the battery (sense im running twin turbos) the turbos will be above the value covers and the tank is going to be 1 feet below them. ok so i found belt pump that rated a 10psi to 89psi and 2 electric ones that are rate 5psi to 50psi the belt one is a dry sump and has a remote oil filter and i would just have to put a t fitting on it and it runs when the car is on so no big deal there the problem is that is thing is for a 5-8 quart engine and i think it will run dry pumping 2 qrts to two turbos. now the electric ones have a filter on the sending side, have adjustable psi and not very big and has a fail sensor. but they cost 500 a set and the filter are 40 dollars now with this system im going to not need a cooler because the tank is mounted 5 in behind the air damp so that should be enough air.

 

should look into a mocal or a turbowerx epump. they were made for remote mount turbo scavenge builds.

 

HEY WOW

Lots of talk going on, I forgot about this thread.
And funny since then most have come up with similar ideas.

Though I was just thinking a PS pump should be plenty to supply my blower and be ubar reliable, no ehy?

Id like to put in a manual rack as is.

Though once you all stop laughing keep the chatter going.

The blower in question, livingroom mockup.
[Got it cheap, but rare n worth its weight n gold.]

 

okay first, the reason stand along rear mount turbo systems are easier becuase they run a ton cooler, having just 2/4 quarts of fluid with no air flow and mounted in the engine bay....the oil is going to boil...and power steering pump sounds good off the start...BUT!!!...do you know the volume and pressure they put out? i think an average p/s pump puts out very little volume at maybe say 1200 psi....might want to look into that...why are you guys making this harder then it is i told you what the pump that you needed to use was....id personally get the biggest pump from rbracing thats rated at 40psi constant and run them dual so youll be getting 20psi minimum to both and have them both drain back into the same tank...but heating up is going to be a problem if you dont have nice cooler on there.

 

Your little .... are your breaks for different folks I take?

I would not need 2 pumps & other places around the net say racing pumps won't work for a daily driver.

I get what ya mean on the PS pump but I think like ya said they can push some massive PSI ratings. But only cause it has to, the internals of the steerin box make it do all the work. But free flowing pretty much it should be just right, maybe.

Im looking at long term reliability, longevity and we know they last forever and work flawless almost.

 

Rear end pump, single stage scavenge/pump section!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

have you not read anything about the rbracing pumps, there for everyday use and wear and tear....im seriously done trying to help you idiots

 

your the idiot if you expect everyone to just take everything you say as writen in stone and not question it.

 

we'll see how long your 2 quarts of oil and your plastic electric oil pump or your power steering pump that pushes all the fluid past the seals and out of your muffler lol

 

well if the system is setup well and i can cool the oil before its next cycle to the turbo then im good i may need 2.5 quarts because once the oil is sent to the turbo and tubing its only 1/2 a quart left in the tank and if i push is that may turn to zero
and dont hate on my "plastic electric oil pumps" if it does its job then is fine by me