Looking good.

Quick question. How are you going to mount your trans dipstick tube? I have the same one. Maybe a bracket or spacer?

 

The .68 is too small for a 350. It would be better for a 305. For a 350 the ideal size would be something around .81 or similar but I would not go with anything smaller. With the .96 I am expecting decent spool times

 

Hey great build thread. I'm loving all the pics. Couple of questions:

1. Maybe I missed it, but how exactly does the crossover pipe route from the driver side header to the turbo?

2. What size is your downpipe? Looks like maybe 3"?

3. Where is your wastegate mounted? Do you have any more header pics?

Thanks, I'm thinking of starting a turbo project on my car too, so just doing some research.

 

The crossover is 2.5" and it goes from the driver header under the oil pan. The downpipe im using now is a 3". The wastegate is under the turbo.

 

I finally got the carburetor back from csu oh man does it look good. I already made the fuel lines to the regulator, bottom radiator hose. Ill post more pics when i get home.

 

its pretty much done except for a couple of wires that i still have to run here and there, a couple of parts waiting to come in to be installed and some minor details, like painting all the pipes black and wrapping the crossover pipe but here it is.

The tuning of this thing will be fun

 

oh yeah i forgot i need to get some HAIRSPRAY!!!

 

That stuff works wonders. We used to use it all the time on the freestyle bike rims to get the brakes to lock.

Your build came out excellent. Very clean and neat.

 

Thanks..

You know i have never in my life bought hairspray, what should i look for? any brand better than others or it is all just hairspray? lol

 

Nice man, looks great! Hope the tuning goes smoothly

 

I am not sure. We used to snag it from the array of junk on top of a sister's bureau. Any kind seemed to work.

 

How did you find the room to fit the crossover pipe and DP back by the heater box/firewall? I guess I'm still confused how the crossover pipe goes from under the oil pan to the pass side header. I would think the starter would be right in the way.

 

Theres alot more room down there than you think...especially with ministarter. BBS designs turbo header was a similar design with downpipe and crossover pipe coming up onthe passenger side.

 

This setup would not work if you have a stock kmember and a larger than stock oil pan, like 6or7 qrt, but since all my stuff is basically stock i fabricated a crossover pipe from the hugger style driver side header in between the kmember and oil pan up by the starter and to the header. In reality the crossover pipe is kind of in the middle of cylinder 8 and cylinder 6. I have a Hitachi mini starter. The way my setup turned out it would not fit with a stock starter.
If you look at your engine in the bay, number 8 header primary sits about 4-5" from the firewall without the heater box, with the heater box its alot closer and my setup may will not work. The downpipe as you see from the pics goes down between the engine and firewall and still has about 1/2-3/4 of an inch on each side which gives me room for improvement when i need it. After it passes the headers it makes another turn through where the stock y-pipe was originaly ran.

I will try and take a couple of shot for you.

 

here are the crossover pipe pics.

 

So i got the car started, and it fired right up. I had a defective oil pressure gauge, it worked fine at first but then the oil pressure dropped to 5psi and stayed there. Scared the crap out of me so i tried a couple other mechanical gauges and it was up in the 50psi range. I guess the sender unit went bad so fri. i went and bought a new mechanical one. No more elctronic gauges for me. Another problem was the shifter cable, man that thing me made so mad i spent at least 6hrs trying to adjust it and nothing i was starting to think the shifter was bad but then i used another cable i had at home and tah dah. I havent done any driving yet just idlen and stuff, engine hasnt seen any boost yet.
I still need to finish the exhaust as its too loud right now and the interior.

 

Great looking setup!!! Hope you would decide to do the final tune on a chassis dyno, it 'd be very interesting to see what kind of numbers the engine makes!

 

That's pretty much exactly how my crossover pipe runs. It follows the factory Y pipe but turns up just ahead of the starter. Plenty of room for the down pipe behind that, even with a factory starter and the AC box in place, depending on the design of the log. Without the AC box as Noboostnogo's is even a 4 inch downpipe is possible, especially with the ministarter. BTW anyone planning to do this setup, just go ahead and spend the money on a mini-starter or LT1 starter. There is a lot of heat radiating from the close proximity of the dp, crossover and manifold above. A stock starter won't be happy for long!

Here is a pic with the stock starter when I was building the dp:

 

Awsome build!! Subscribing

 

Hey thanks for all the pics and info about the crossover pipe and DP. Hmm.... I'm getting a mini starter either way, maybe I will try going this route too. I was thinking about bringing the crossover pipe around the front of the engine but now I'm not sure. Does the driver side header get a lot hotter feeding into a turbo than it does N/A? I know everyone recommends using beefier materials for turbo headers but I wonder if the drivers side header would get any hotter since the turbo is a couple of pipe-feet away from the turbine. It'd be nice to keep my existing drivers side header if I could.

 

Here's a video of the car idling. This is my first time recording with this camera so please excuse me
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jfR1TiIkFS0 It is a full HD 1080p clip. It took forever and a day to upload.

 

heres a cool vide of my car.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bOtAJ9F8l3w

I need to enrichen it a bit @ wot, the carb out of the box got me a 12.5:1 @ wot. im shooting for 11.5:1 @ wot @ 7psi.

oh and i need a much larger BOV. My turbo is surging at only 7psi with the bov at the softest setting. I will get a 50mm bov

 

good job cant wait to see what kind of performance u get r u goin to run it on the dyno? whats the cr on your engine ? do u plan to run a water/meth injection?

 

Surging, i dont get it? My pressure jumps around sorta around 9-11psi and i have a tiny blowoff with super light spring(actually cut the spring down a little.) Is that surging?

 

i dont remember exactly where my cr was at but iirc it was 9.2:1 or somethin like that, i do plan on hittin the dyno for fine tunning. no water/ meth yet.

 

i have a knock off type rs BOV which works great but its tiny for my setup. At only 7psi the bov opens but does not releif pressure fast enough therefore causing turbo surge. Turbo surge souds like a fluttering noise coming from the actual turbo basically all the pressure that is in the IC pipe and IC has no where to go when you let off the gas and the only way out is through the turbo which is spooling in the opposite direction therefore it makes that fluttering noise. Turbo surge is not good and could damage the compressor. Not only that but on a blow thru if you dont have a BOV big enough and still have pressure in the pipes it could cause all sort of lean/rich problems too.

Hows your tunning coming?

 

ohh **** that sucks! i have the same dang blow off valve, and i was wondering what that sound was. Im running 10psi with a t76.
I wonder if i put another one(have 2 total), if it would fix the problem?

 

Well its coming ok, but still cant richen up my WOT. I put vent tube extensions on today but didnt get to try them out because it started snowing. My cruise and idle are really good. Still have part throttle lean problems. Hopefully these hard vent tubes work. Ill keep u updated, how well did that carb u bought work out? How much tweaking did u have to do?

 

Yeah 2 bovs will deff do it. Luckily I didn't have to do any tweakin at all. Out of the box I got 12.5 to 1 @ wot and idle and cruise seem fine Kevin said to not tweak it and just up the rear jets a bit I'm at 68 front and 72 rear I'm gonna try 76 in the rear and see what happenes. I have 31 squirter in the front and 35 in the rear.

Good luck with ur tunning ive read great things about vent tube extensions. have you tried enlarging pvcrs?

 

Awesome..cant wait to see what it does

 

hey sorry for the late response i never saw this reply. I fabricated a small bracket that looks like a squared C one side mounts to the firewall the other is where the dipstick mounts too.

 

haha me neither this turbo v8 world is much different than what im used to (v6 and L4) i cant wait to see what itll do. Around me all the tracks are closed now so im debating on if i want to go to a dyno $100/hr sounds kinda high for some dyno pulls. So im still thinking about just waiting until test and tune or just bite the bullet and go to the dyno

 

Yeah, thats what I had in mind.

You wouldnt happen to have a pic of it installed?

 

Dyno is a great tool to fine tune the setup. I wouldnt go until I had a pretty good street tune so you dont have to spend much time on the dyno

100 bucks /hr is pretty good. its usually 100-120 an hour at most places around me. 60-70 bucks for 3 pulls sometimes.

 

Sorry for the late response i havent had much time to get on here. Here are some pics i took the other day

 

I ran across some metal brackets I had in the garage that will work just perfect. Now I just need to bend it to the right shape and drill some mounting holes.

Thanks man!

 

Hope you guys had a great christmas. I did. I got some parts for my car. i got a 50mm BOV because mine kept on surgin at the lightest setting with a cut spring, i got a turbo blanket, i bought me a set of 200cc heads with 2.02/1.60 valves, i got some eagle rods and a scat 3.750 crank. My birthday is coming up so hopefully ill got some JE/SRP pistons... I havent even had time to play with my current combo and im already looking to make it better. I will not take my engine apart until something happenes or until next winter but i will have all the part ready for a 383 single turbo. Anyone know of any decent affordable 72-74mm turbos?

 

im running a master power t76 with a .96 a/r on a 355..........so far so good with 14 lbs boost..........i am changing my manifolds to a different setup and fabbing up my own crossover and a 3.5" down pipe.........what heads did you get? im using dart iron eagle platinum 200's on my setup..........i also have a new blow thru carb in the works too

 

what rpm are you getting full spool at ?

 

The heads are dart/world products 200cc 64cc heads they are like the sportsman 2 and iron eagle heads but a bit older flow is very similar so whith some port and polishing this heads will do great.

Could u do me a huge favor and take a measurement for me I just need to know what the diameter is of your t76 turbo compressor. I would really appreciate it I just know my t709 is gonna be too small for the new engine so i m lookin for somethin that will fit under the hood without redoin the headers.

 

i love the handy dandy radiator tool tray.

 

subscribed

 

haha the radiator is big enough for sockets, wrenches sharpies screwdrives etc. it came in handy LOL

 

Car ran a 11.89 @ 112mph with a 1.64 60foot.

 

Nice... and I like the way the build turned out. not sure that i'm excited by your filter location (doing it like that gives you a lot of space to work with, but I'm not sure about how sucking in the hot air from that location, though I don't know that anyone has ever done a conclusive test with how much that effects power...

how are you supporting the front end/keeping it lined up with the hood/keeping it from flapping around?

Any more details than that on how the dragstrip pass went?

 

wow i havent updated this in a long time.

The filter setup i wasnt a huge fan of and will not be reusing it. I did cut out a huge hole in he hood and the filter sat right in front of the ram air piece.

For the hood the new upper radiator support is the same height as the factory one and the hood rests on there like it did before, i am holding it down with two hood pins.

So i left off where i ran 11.89. I did start a new thread talking about the time out at the track i ended up blowing a headgasket that day but was still very happy. I pulled the engine out and took the heads off, both gaskets were blown, cylinders 6 and 8 and cylinder 5 into water coolant. I am gessing either the stock hardware failed to do the job and both heads lifter or too much timing. I had the dizzy locked at 36* and brought it down to 20* at 7psi.

I had picked up a set of world sportsman 2 200cc iron heads off craigslist with springs for a roller cam for 350bucks, after about 20hrs of hand porting and polishing i am very happy with the outcome. I thought about getting MLS gaskets and putting in arp head studs and the new heads on but decided not too since the block was begging me for an overbore. piston to wall clearance was too loose.

i took everything apart, none of the pistons had any sign of detonation or any unusual signs of damage but one of them was missing a good portion of the tabs on the bottom which i ended up finding in the oil pan later, im guessing piston slap caused this.

So i bought all new parts to build a forged 383 stroker, everything is at the machine shop being put together, im getting the block checked out, squared, cleaned, new cam bearings and water plugs I have a scat crank, eagle h beam rods, srp -31 cc forged pistons, arp main studs, arp head studs, new milodon 6qt oil pan with baffles and windage tray. mellin select 10% higher oil volume pump, etc

Heads are being shaved, new valve jobs, CCd, etc and will post pics later
Cam is a hydraulic roller comp cams 234/234 .541/.541 114lsa custom grind. compression will be around 8.5:1 and im hoping this setup will make around 400hp at the flywheel.

I have sold the master power turbo 70mm and picked up a PT88. I will have to modify my turbo headers for this change or might sell it and start from scratch.

While i wait for the engine to be put together i have started doing some body work on the car since my front end was primed black after a fender bender.


i added some body filler to the radiator support to make it look better


enlarged these holes and used some more body filler


picture of the K-member and solid mounts


mounted my co-pilot, My borther has Luigi mounted in his race car and i have Mario

 

i should have it painted by the end of this week


and should have the engine ready by this week as well

 

heres is a pic of the wreck, this happened before i went to the track


what did i learn from this??? DONT LET POPS DRIVE YOUR TURBO TRANS AM

at the frame shop


and this is what it looked like before


Here is a couple pics of the car at the track



I also have a video fo the 11.89 pass but not on this computer, i will upload it later

 

I am hoping to hit ~700whp with no more than 15psi but i dont know if i will need some meth/water to get there

 

I figured that you did something like that with the hood, I was wondering what you did to keep the nose from flapping around since that is usually lined up with the brace mounted to the front of the core support and the flat panel over that, which you don't have...

I'm a bit surprised that you're convinced that you're running out of turbo so soon, people have gone a lot faster with even old school 76mm turbos. I'm considering trying a holset HX52 that has a 68mm inducer that I hope to run faster than that...