I've been searching, but haven't found an answer to this specific question:

Currently running at -8, 2 degrees off from stock -6. runs pretty good NA, but now I'm going to be adding n2o to the mix. for the sake of argument lets say its a 100 shot. 2 degrees pulled for every 50 so 4 total. do I subtract that from my current timing, or the factory value?

basically, do I subtract 6 total degrees to put me at -2 (additional 2 degrees compensating for my not being at factory -6) or do i subtract ONLY 4 degrees putting me at -4?

Thanks all,

Thunder

 

ECU thinks you are at initial timing of -6d with ESC connector disconnected. With disconnected set timing to -2 which will retard 4 deg globally with ESC connected. If you like check SA with light connected before you make change and again after and you should see the 4d retard unless your idle wanders.

Issue with Stock ECU is that you only use N20 maybe 1% of time. Ideally you would swap to a ECU that can control N20 and timing only when N20 is activated by ECU not a microswitch.

TPS sensitive N20 on at 95% TPS

MPH N2O on at 25.

RPM N2O on at 3200 rpms.

RPM N2O off at 600 rpms under your shift RPM.

 

No timing needs to be pulled on a 100 shot.

pull 2 degrees for a 150 shot, and 2 degrees every 50hp there after.

RPM on should be 2800/3000
RPM off should be 200ish under the rev limiter, unless you dont want to spray through the shifts...then do it 200 under the shift RPM.

 

I have a 375+ ignition box for the timing retard and rpm window switch so that should alleviate the need to modify my prom to account for the timing right now.

so a 100 shot shouldn't require any timing pulled? is that because its not enough to start seeing detonation or because the knock sensor will correct it if detonation occurs?