I have a completely stock 88 iroc with a 350 tpi and I hear these cars have around 230 hp
I was looking to adding power without changing the engine right now (am consitering changing it to a 383) but for now I want to increase my hp overall (no nos suggestions please)
since these engines are real customizeable I'd like to hear what anyone would suggest
THANKS

 

well if you dont want nos or swap the engine all you have left is bolt ons or turbo/supercharger but those aren't cheap.

Do a search alot of people have asked this before.

 

Boy did you open up a can of worms? Your best bang for your bucks, is headers and a good exhaust, preferably 3", and also open up your air intake. After that the HP increase is incremental with all the bolt on's. For big increases you'll have to get inside the motor, but you will want some of the bolt on's anyway. Don't fall for bigger throttle bodies, runners, injectors, etc. until later in your build.

 

i dont want swap the engine or use nos.
i was thinking of a supercharger but it isnt cheap obviously
also i wanted to get a flowermaster or magnaflow exhaust when i get the money but what arent major things i could do in taking apart the engine to give me quite a bit more hp? without the certain upgrade alone costing over 500$?

 

aside from bolting on i/h/e which all cost a pretty penny your not gonna get a lot of free power, a horse here and there from underdive pulleys and the like but at a certain point you have to pay to play. its gonna take time money or talent.

 

Well you can start off with the smaller mods like headers and a catback this will get you setup for when you swap out your intake, heads and cam for some real power gains.

You also should consider getting into prom burning since you will need this down the road.

 

Basically nothing. If you want quite a bit more HP, it cost money.

 

I will probably start with smaller mods but for now I want to try to hit maybe 250-270 horses?

 

headers+ypipe+catback+2800stall+3.42/3.45 gears+ mickey 255 drag radials = best bang for buck.

NOTHING else will give you the feeling you will get with those items for the $$, aside from nitrous.

/thread.

 

How much of a difference will headers, y pipe and the catback make in hp?
Also the 2800 I'm gives more torque am I right? And i'm not to familar with gears so first off what would the gears offer?

 

its safe to say 20hp or so...

2800 converter puts the TPI motor RIGHT where it loves to be, and the rear gears help

think of a 10 speed bike, its alot easier to pedal in 1st gear, then it is 10th gear from a stop right?

its the same principle here

those mods alone, assuming your motors in good running condition as is, should run mid to low 13s VERY easily, id guess high 12s with the sticky tires.

 

can you explain the 2800 stall converter in depth, i hear about it but know nothing...

 

a stall if properly sized and matched, simply allows the engine to get into its powerband near instantaneously off idle..combine that with a little bit lower{higher numerically} gear, and the acceleration is much much MUCH better, and fun as hell.


combine that with some sticky tires, and it makes for one hell of a launch and fun stoplight to stoplight or 1320 car...

Those considering installing a stall converter, i HIGHLY suggest also installing a transmission cooler capable of keeping the trans within reasonable temps.

 

My engine has about 112,000 miles so I think it will be good. I'll really look into these parts thou

 

I checked the price for the stall converter and it's decently priced. Now how much would I be looking to spend on a transmission cooler

 

Does your car have the stock trans cooler in the radiator? That should be plenty for a lock up converter in a 700r4. IF you went aftermarket you'd have to run new lines to the cooler and that all should cost about 150-200 bucks, probably less

 

Stock trans cooler will not be enough to keep a stalled R4 cool thats pushing a 3500+ pound car..

Cut the "return" line from the radiator, and run that into another cooler thats mounted up front, the exit line from that, connect to the factory return line going back to the trans..

this will ensure the trans stays cool, and will still allow it to stay up to correct temp in the colder months.

 

Worked for my car for several years? Never had a problem on 2800 or 3600 stall. Keep the coolant cool, it will cool the tranny fluid. A new cooler wouldnt be a bad idea, but liquid coolers are more efficient than air coolers

 

I agree with 89formula, hooker 2055's (includes y-pipe), magnaflow cat, magnaflow cat back, stall, shift kit, air mods, full tune up, good tires, 3.42's, and weight reductions. Also please make sure your car runs 100% and that your brakes, suspension, etc. are safe.

But i dont belive you would want to chose your stall tell you know if you want to stick with stock tpi or if you want to go hsr, superram, etc.

 

true liquid coolers are more efficient, but..these cars run HOT factory..

195+ is just simply too hot in MY opinion. every little bit helps, a good stacked plate, instead of tube/fin cooler will do wonders to keep the trans temps in check.

2800/3200 converter would work well for either setup honestly..

the above mods i have mentioned, and you mention...along with a 100/150 shot of nitrous...the car would haul ***, i wouldnt be surprised if a high/mid 11 pass was clicked off.

 

Yeah i'd assume a 170 deg stat and keeping temps in the 180 range. Thats where I was with my old 383 and HSR L98

 

That would probably work, id still wanna recomend an aftermarket add on cooler, its cheap insurance...

especially if the car will be street driven/traffic driven alot..thats where the heat buildup REALLY happens.