been thinking about a turbo hsr build...
but, about the turbo setup in particular..

what exactly do i need?

was looking at a GT45 turbo..like this one
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GT45R...Q5fAccessories


from what ive gathered, i need:

1. Turbo
2. Turbo manifold
3. Turbo downpipe
4. Turbo wastegate
5. Blow off Valve
6. Intercooler
7. oil Cooler(for transmission)
8. Intercooler piping
9. oil feed drian/return lines
10. oil catch can

what else?

 

fuel is important ! you need a way to control your fuel an timing . dynamic efi is what i'm gonna go with . you need atleast a walboro 255 fuel pump a 1-1 regulater a wideband air fuel gauge . theres alot of info on this site jus study alot find the best turbo for your motor an the way your gonna run the car . good luck

 

what is needed for a turbo build??? $25k for decent turbo street car

 

Money. Time. Knoweldge

Also high pressure fittings, V-band clamps and t-clamps, Wide band o2, necessary gauges boost ect. Most likely low compression forged pistons, heads ext. 8.5:1 comp and lower for boost. MSD timing control, boost retard, Properly gapped plugs. Brackets, relocation for certain parts. Depending on HP, Rebuild trans, New Rear, Driveshaft...Im sure there is more but of the top of my head thats all I can think of right now.

 

Why do you need an oil catch can?

 

High boost pressures and combustion pressure creates blow-by gasses and oil which can gum up valve-train, and dirty the TB/carb. You don't NEED it. Its a nice thing to have if you are running high boost or high compression, if you don't mind it underneath the hood.

If your budget allows for it I would use one. If its not a HP application there is really no need for it.

 

In the many turbo and supercharger installs I've done, I've not used an oil catch can, unless the owner of the car absolutely insisted due what they "read on the internet," and never experienced any issues of blow by or oil being "lost" through the PCV system. The only time there seems to excessive blow by is on a poorly assembled or high milage/worn engine.

 

That's not true at all. The more compression you throw into a combustion chamber equals the more blow-by you will have, it doesnt matter how well the machine was engineered or assembled. Yes tighter clearances will have "less" but blow-by doesn't include just oil. Its also fumes and oil vapor.

Im not sure if you know but oil vapor and mist in the cylinder effectively lowers octane levels, so especially on cars running over 12:1 CR eliminating as much blow-by as possible is better to reduce chances of detonation.

Some motors that maybe aren't 100% up to date and have a turbo system are fine too, not every body has the money to create a nasty expensive high tech system. Some people go with what they can get. In this situation blow-by is usually excessive depending on the motor. Cans can be used to keep oil out of the intercooler and piping as well. Sure it wont happen over night but a year or 2 the inside of the intercooler may become gummed or contaminated causing it to be less efficient.

Ive build many engines, some turbo applications but not as many as NA. I have put catch cans in a few mostly due to customer request. From doing so I have seen they do work. They are not magic tricks and aren't wonder tanks, but for the most part if they are installed properly they do what they are supposed to.

Like I said you don't NEED one. There is also no reason not to have one if you want one. They are not a scam, and they do work.

 

BULLSHIT !

 

I guess my 30+ year old engine is an exception. I get NO oil residue going into the turbo, where I have the PCV fresh air connection made. The other side is a PCV valve that closes when there is boost.

Then there have been other engines of varying ages that also had the same result.

The only time I would ever use an oil catch can is when I wasn't using a baffled cam/rocker cover. I don't ever see that happening though.

 

i didn't use one on my srt but i did have to drain the oil out of the intercooler piping on occasion .

 

Awsome! I wish all my motors could be perfect. Someday.

 

he said decent street car AKA reliable, and if your tack high power (750+rwhp) onto that, starting from a stock car 25k might be a low figure. And junkyard lsx motors at over 600rwhp are not "reliable", they are on borrowed time, i don't care -who on tech has done what with what motor- of course there's always an exception. Those guys always go to a built motor once the stocker pops, or just keep replacing them with new pull out motors.

i'd say if you can do 600+ reliable rwhp for under 10k starting from stock your doing GREAT. Unless you get a stupid amount of used parts, 10k is a low number considering quality fuel, hotside, coldside, built motor, tuning, turbo, oil lines, clamps, fittings, transmission, driveshaft, rear end, tires, gauges, wideband, etc. It can be done reasonably cheaply but your not gonna have a "nice" set up that you don't have to worry about breaking, you get what you pay for 99% of the time. The turbo game is expensive. ask me how i know....

 

i only had about 3 gran invested in a 400 fwhp 4 cylinder car ( srt4 ) not counting the cost of the car ( which i bought new ) you don't have to buy top of the line **** to have a nice car . i'm building a "ebay baby" an i'll bet it's gonna be cheaper an faster than my last car that had top of the line **** on it . my srt ran 12.71 @ 113 mph spinning the rims in the slicks

 

 

what are you gonna control boost an timing with ?

 

Popular option would be either an electronic or mechanical boost control and a MSD 6 BTM.

Mallory makes a BTC that you can use as well although not as accurate.

 

400fwhp, 12.7x and "ebay baby" do not go in the same paragraph as nice fast reliable turbo car sounds like a heads/cam 350 and a ported tpi to me.

 

what exactly are you trying to say ?
the ebay baby is this camaro , the 12.71 was the srt4 with top of the line parts . my point is you don't have to go the top of the line route to be fast . i did before an regrett it now .

 

what i'm saying is you don't get a nice, powerful, turbocharged street car for cheap. fast cheap reliable pick 2. maybe you should learn to read

yes you can go fast for cheap with cheap parts, but your not going to get the dead nuts reliability of a higher end build, especially in a street car that sees a lot of miles.

 

i can sorta understand your point . but i'm gonna try it with this one . like i said before i used all high end stuff on my srt . i had a 350 dollar greddy bov , i had a garrett turbo an so on . i'm gonna do the ebay cheapies on this camaro an seee where i get .lol

 

Lets face it, if you're asking the question you probably don't have the skills to build one...

 

this doesnt exactly count since your car was already turbo from the factory try building a reliable complete drivetrain from end to end for 3g's.

 

what better way to learn than to do it for the first time

 

Problem with turbo builds is once you start...stuff starts adding up quickly because you start changing things and then start looking for more power...etc.

If you are starting from a fresh sbc block, you can make decent power without spending much more than a decent heads/cam type build, you just have to save money on the turbo parts where possible

You figure a n/a motor needs headers...500-600 for them. Put that towards materials and fab time for your turbo headers and it equals out. I built mine for about 500 total but i started with pre-stubbed flanges that cost 170, and paid my buddy to finish tig weld for 120. Everything else wasnt much in material to be honest.

Then main items are just gonna be turbo/wastegate/bov/intercooler...which can be 1000 or so to 4000+ depending on what you get

If you start looking for over 600whp, you'll want to look into aftermarket block and all forged internals for sure. Things start adding up on those builds. under 600whp and moderate rpm use, cast crank/I beam rods with good bolts and forged pistons is all you really need. Just need to watch your tune.

I'd say typically a turbo motor itself with a typical single turbo/log manifold type setup fabricated from mild steel shouldnt run much more than 1000-1500 bucks more than a good n/a only motor build. Or about same as a nitrous motor setup.

Depends on the turbo tho. borg warner S400 stuff for 600-800 bucks is hard to beat for a single turbo... Milder setups can use the T4 T70 or T76 from master power for 550-600.

If you start from a stock car tho, figure all the money that goes into fuel system/motor, drivetrain, suspension and electronics....you can easily be up over 25K. I know I am up there if you total alll the mods from ground up. But suspension/brakes/driveline can be done over time. The actual turbo motor/tranny is probably 15K on my setup. Not all that bad considering the parts I have on the car and doing it all myself. Is it reliable?? fairly so after I get the mild issues worked out, but I dont expect a major parts failure anytime soon and its very driveable

 

If you are thinking of running the China GT45 then it sounds like a budget build. Might as well flip and/or modify some stock manifolds for the exhaust side for cheap. Add a China 24x12x3 aftercooler for a little extra HP and detonation resistance. The do a Nitrous fuel solenoid to add the extra fuel. I would expect about 600 FWHP max out of something like that.

Add the trans cooler, but a stock 700R4 isn't going to last long anyway but you need the cooler for a better trans later on. Overall, doing the budget build will be around $1,000 depending on what you can scavenge. You could go will a better build which would cost up to 25K or better like was mentioned.