The Procharger tensioner is only made to go to the first line, or between the first and second as you mentioned. That is a predetermined belt tension for most of the dedicated drive systems. You have to remember, that tensioner meant to be used as a two part system with a manual tensioner, as shown in the pictures of the SBC kit and 5.0 Mustang with the bolt protruding above and behind the bracket. It would take quite a bit more work to get the system to bolt up in the manner it was intended, but it appears that your current solution is working quite well.

 

I can try and take some more pictures, but everything is packed in pretty tight. I'lll try and get some pictures posted in the next couple of days.

 

That would be fantastic, as we are getting ready to install this also....would love to see as many pics as possible. Thanks in advance!!

Brian

 

Anybody have any other pics of this?

 

Is there anything particular you want pics of?

 

Hi Tony...sorry for the delay, as i just saw your response....it would be nice to see some close up pics of how the tensioner is clocked..... and just any other pics really....i like to look at alot of pics when doing stuff..it really helps out lot... so anything would be great!

Thanks Tony,

Brian

 

Same here, it is almost impossible to find really clear, comprehensive and detailed pictures of procharger setups on here. There are a lot of "engine bay" pics, thats cool to see to, but when you are building a setup and want some advice the cool pics mean diddly....

 

I have alot of pictures....

my current bracket + holder
http://s373.photobucket.com/user/gta...61152863422746

Tensioner
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/powe...ioner-ati.html

IC "not decided if I'll keep this setup or net"
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/powe...-pictures.html

what would you like to see?

 

I'll have to get some for you in a few weeks then, I'm out of town at the moment for work.

Gta324 did one step farther and made his own bracket, it's a pretty cool setup.

 

That would be awesome Tony!! Thanks in advance...I will be waiting ..... and GTA324, thanks for those great pics! It seems your tensioner is mounted different than Tony's setup....Nice job on the bracket also! We will be using the same setup as Tony has, the factory Procharger bracket along with the Dayco tensioner and 12 rib pulley.....

Brian

 

Is there anyone that has pictures of a bracket not made from sctrach? I love custom stuff just as much as the next guy, but I am in a unique situation right now. My car is in pieces as I am getting ready to do a minitub, my motor was acting crazy last time I had it in the car and I also had wiring issues. With that said, my plan is to do the body and wiring stuff myself, then get the motor dyno tunned with the SC on it. Since I am up to my eyes in work for the body, I want the motor to get a full tune on the dyno with a non-flexing bracket.

gta324 - I appreciate all the pics/links and help, but 1. I don't have the tools to make something like your bracket. 2. I am not sure I even have the skill to be honest.

I know people have said they use ASSC brackets and it works, others have mentioned some place down in RI that makes some sort of bracket and pulley, but no info is ever concrete. Just people saying halfway stuff like, call this guy he will help you out...

I guess just like any other aftermarket product or vendor review I am hoping to find someone that says: I was running an F1 with a 12 rib TPI bracket, got belt slip with the 3.4" pulley, added X from company Y and re ran the car on the dyno and BAM, good booste till redline.

That is what I am looking for... might just be a dream though since there are so many variables and people are running different things based on their skill level of manufacturing.

Thanks for any insight if anyone knows of a car or thread like the one I am describing above.

 

No dream, just takes $$$$. I'm sure that the boys over at House of Boost can build you one, but if they do, and I stress if they do... mainly because everyone seems to focus on just the LSX stuff now, it definitely won't come cheap. Their cog drive setup is the strongest I have ever seen, but for the LSX. Don't see why they can't build one for the SBC, but I can only imagine what the cost would be like, and if they would even do it as a one off. But then again, money definitely talks, and it doesn't hurt to ask them...

 

Beutiful piece.

 

It really is a work of art, and their F2 Corvette that showcases it is a monster...

 

here's the ysi LT1 i've been working on. i made the motor plate, and incorporated the accessories onto the passenger side. the blower bracket is a part of the drivers side motor plate, and ties to the engine block and frame. 3/8" motor plate, 1/2" blower plate, and 3/4" supports. it all fits under the stock z28 hood. still very unfinished, and tons of stuff to fix/complete.
the 30mm cog drive looks puny, and it will be at its limit, which is why i added the 2 idlers. my thought was to keep the belt from slapping around near the blower pulley. there needs to be maximum tooth contact to avoid ripping them off the belt.

 

Nice custom bracket Digger, I take it the alternator is mounted low and to the left side of the engine?

Well I took some more pic's, not sure it will help any but here they are.

 

Thanks Tony!! That helps alot...i appreciate you taking the time to do that for us!!

 

I will be getting back into a third gen. here soon. Considering installing a d1sc when I get the car. This thread is very helpful. Thanks

 

still have not done this yet, but soon... question came to mind, can you remove the belt now with the automatic tensioner? i always seem to have to unbolt the head unit.

ah $hit, i got the 89048 tensioner, i have to mount it the opposite way...

 

Depends, with my 4" pulley the belt is to tight to slip over but with the 3.4" it's no problem. I can't remember if the 3.7" one is or not.

That part number comes up as a pulley for me. If you do have something that swings other other way the reason I picked up the tensioner I did was so I can get the tensioner pulley closer to the blower pulley and I believe it is easier to get access to for a bar/ratchet.

 

yeah, this tensioner is opposite the one you have, i want it closer to the blower pulley, i'm running a 4.0 also, i could not find anyone with the dayco tensioner, so i ordered the gates one instead that is supposed to be the dayco 89401 type, should be here friday.

 

My gates tensioner never worked out so well, it would twist just that little bit and walk the belt off. The dayco has a really solid design with the big plastic bushing between the two halves, there is no way for it to twist unless the big nut thing came loose. Just something to think about, hate to see you waste your time and money if it didn't work out.

 

hmmm, i'll have to check it out when it comes, i can return it if need be, i cannot find a dayco 89401 anywhere under 200 dollars...

i guess i can just use the existing dayco the other way but was hoping for more belt wrap

 

ok, i did some research, looks like the 89401 was replaced with the 89429.

i ordered that one up, i'll send the gates one back.

 

got the 89429 tensioner, it will work! had a late night in the garage. got the bracket drilled, need to get a mounting bolt and nut for the tensioner.

it looks like i need to space out the pulley from the tensioner closer to the main bracket. i believe from earlier post you did this Tony.

i raised mine up a bit more than what you have pictured, my concern also about the spring on the bottom of the tensioner hitting the belt.

also the main bracket bolt thats goes through the alternator is a tad proud of the bracket face, looks like i will have to file down the tensioner housing in a small spot to sit flat.

and for the final test of all, figuring out the upper coolant hose to make sure it doesn't interfere..

 

Yes I used a washer to space it out some but make sure to use some locktite on the bolt so it doesn't come loose.

As for the spring on the bottom I just rotated it enough so if the belt came loose for some reason it would rub the main housing of the tensioner.

For the alternator bolt I gound down the face of it and it works fine, that way you don't have to mess with the tensioner housing.

The upper rad hose I cut off that plastic part sticking out from the upper rad bracket and then cut the end of the hose some that connects into the rad. A simple zip tie to hold it in and worked fine like that for me for years and years. I'm sure the 8 rib guys don't have as much trouble with this part.

 

there is no way i can space out this pulley enough... i think i need to use the pulley that you did, even for the 8 rib... the current one is way to far from the main bracket and does not sit on the belt all the way....

i ordered up the pulley also... did you use the original bolt for the new idler pulley?

 

Yes I did with a fairly thick washer though you could make your own bolt and sleeve setup that would make it fit perfect, just need a lathe lol.

 

alright, i got the tensioner in and working, my biggest concern was the spring tang on the tensioner, i used the original idler bolt hole for the tensioner. i definitely needed the pulley you had listed Tony even with spacers with the 8 rib setup. still need to take it for a test drive..

 

One thing I've noticed after installing the spring tensioner is that I have alot a belt dust on the bottom side of my hood. Both from the my regular acc. belt and blower belt. Anyone else experience this?

 

have not driven the car but once, so i cannot help with the belt dust..

the tensioner does work, i need a bigger blower pulley now, i just pulled 15# in 2nd gear and let off the gas, typically before it would only do about 10# and 14 in 4th...

 

I get nothing on from my regular accessories belt but there is dust from the blower pulley. I did go to the lowest size pulley and I'm trying out a new 12 rib belt from dayco that seams a little different so who knows.

Glad to see its working for you 86Z! Post up a pic or two of your setup, I like to see what it looks like when you use the original idler pulley hole, I wanted to try it on mine but I had few to many holes already from past experiments that didn't make it align very well.

 

hey, i didn't forget, i've been having other issues, i broke an intake valve spring, have to change all the springs out..

now that i have good tension i'm wondering what to do, 15# in 2nd gear would be a lot more in 4th, i'm thinking that's too much boost for my stock bottom

 

well i took the auto tensioner off, i'm tired of playing with it, with the 4.0 pulley it made way too much boost, when i installed a larger pulley with the longer belt, the belt would come in to contact with the spring on the tensioner, and i don't feel like pulling the bracket off again for re drilling.


if anyone is interested in the tensioner with the wider pulley let me know, i will sell.

 

How much?

 

ill do 110.00 shipped depending on where you are located.

 

Is it just the tensioner the bracket and tensioner?

 

just the tensioner with the wider pulley.

 

Think if you readjusted the tensioner you would be all good but if your using that big of a pulley I don't think you have many problems with belt slip anyways.

Also I'm still using my stock bottom end too, and so far it's lasted I think lol.

 

Still have the pulley?

 

I found both the 89401 and the 89429.

http://www.rakuten.com/pr/product.as...ngId=340464282

They seem to have everything. I don't want to buy anything though if someone is trying to get rid of their setup. Prices on that strange site look good too.

 

UPDATE: I think I figured out why I have all the belt dust. During normal driving conditions the tensioner pulley and the idler pulley have enough clearance, but under WOT condition the belt stretches causing the spring tensioner pulley and idler pulley to come in contract (belt to belt). I dont know if moving the spring tensioner farther up on the mount would help or possibly get the next size smaller (length) for the blower belt.

 

I actually removed my idler pulley from the system but kept the same length belt. What size belt are you using for your 3.7" pulley?

 

Any reason why this same belt tensioner wouldn't work on a vortech blower setup?

 

Love all this blower talk

 

I cant remove my idler pulley, Ive got a custom strut rod bracket that the belt will hit. See attached pic.

 

Do you have any more pictures of that bracket you made? Also, is there any possibility of too much tension with one of these spring loaded tensioners installed in the wrong position or will they adjust themselves to the correct tension?

 

I didn't make the support bracket/strut setup, Larry at ASSC over in Chicago actually made it. There are actually two brackets (upper & lower).


1. 5/8 diameter strut rod (upper) - supports the head unit, bolts to header bolt in picture #5, supports the head unit in picture #1
2. Lower support rod - supports the bottom of the procharger bracket from flexing, support rod bolts back to the block.


Hope this helps.

 

With regard to the spring tensioner location, you want to make sure you have it positioned so that tensioner can move in both directions. They do "adjust" themselves (meaning you won't have too much tension on the belt), but you want to make the tensioner will compensate for belt flex under WOT (wide open throttle). The manual tensioner that comes from procharger is "OK" if you are only going to run 7 to 8 pounds of boost. Anything more than that (in my experiences) the belt starts to slip and you have belt dust all over the place. I've found that 13 to 14 is about the limit on a 8 rib belt. I've gone as high as 18 to 19 pounds of boost, but the belt starts to slip again. My next step is to switch everything over to a 12 rib set up hopefully I can run 20 pounds of boost with no belt slip. With the electric fan set up that I run I don't have enough room to go to a cog belt set up.

 

Thanks, the pictures were a big help. I just wonder if the brace that uses a header bolt will have enough clearance for my headers (dyno dons). The bottom one should work fine though if he would be willing to sell just that one. They were the first set of pictures ive seen of those braces actually installed.