shawnc16

So this is where your project thread is hiding! Looks good so far! Get the wallet out!

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

seems like lately the money hasnt even made it to my wallet LOL. Pretty well blew my budget 2 months ago. Spending all that OT before I have daycare bills to pay. I think im down to only needing the fuel pump, trans rebuilt and converter.....but im sure I'll find a bunch more lol.

Jay

Chris Etemadi

Awesome, that gives me hope about possibly mounting mine in that location.

If you are daring you could go through the 4L80E for about $500 in parts. I built mine in a third story apartment that I was living in at the time. It was the best way to stay warm and keep things clean, plus the LS Swap was done in the single car detached garage, so not much room for anything else.

If you still decide to have the builder go through it I would suggest using the Jake's valve body kit or similar which includes instructions for dual feeding the direct drum directly, rather than dual feeding through the valve body like the HD2 kit does. This alone should save you some more cash. These really are simple transmissions to go through.

Are you dead set on locking up the converter? A good converter should only slip 5-8% on the big end.You would likely want some upgraded hard parts if you were wanting to lock it up. In my research, the single disc 258mm converters (Preferred for turbo cars) are in the $750-$900 Range. You may look into the PTC as they are less expensive and highly regarded. I got my converter from North Texas Converter, a newer place that was founded by some Ex Jakes Performance workers for under $750 Shipped. They also know there way inside the 4L80E's as well, so they may have a DIY kit that you could check out.

You may try using rocker panel or sub frames to base your angles off of.

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

I was thinking about going through it myself and have watched many videos, it seems simple enough but with the cost of a rebuild kit ($500ish USD) then converting it to cdn and paying taxes im probably around $700. There is a guy local that was high up at GM transmission her in Windsor back in the day and he build the on the side. Told him what I was building and around 650hp and he quoted me $800 for the rebuild (new clutches,seals,bushings) Any hard parts that may be damaged would cost extra.

I have talked with PTC and CircleD, circleD of course he pushing me towards a multidisk. PTC said a single disk which is $750ish. I also have heard good about the edge street converters for around $585. But im leaning towards the PTC single disk.

Not set on locking WOT anyways. The car is more or less something I drive once a week if that and attend local car shows. I don't race as much as I use to anymore. Especially with a newborn. So I'm sure the car will see the dragstrip maybe twice a year if that

You may have a tough time with a T6 in that location. it is do-able im sure. I would be willing to bet you would need a shorter rad and stand it up. Im still debating it as I only have around 3-4" from the inlet to the rad cap area.

Jay

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

Well picked up the rest of my fuel fittings and plumbed the rails/regulator to a Y fitting. Hoping to get some work done on the gauge panel this week.

Speedhut 3 3/8 260kph speedo (integrated signals and high-beams)
Speedhut 3 3/8 8000rpm tach (integrated shift light)
Speedhut 2 1/16 Fuel Pressure 1-100psi
Speedhut Fuel level
Speedhut Voltage
Innovate SCG-1 (wideband/boost controller/boostgauge/shift light with fail safe)
Maxigauge Display (EGT,Coolant temp, oil temp, oil pressure, trans temp, intake temp, boost in kpa, and TPS)

Needless to say a lot will be going on in my dash lol


Jay

BDR

Looks good. I really like the gauge setup and the panel. I havent bought gauges and those look different compared to Autometer. Might just go a diff route instead of the usual Autometer stuff.

Also what is the maxigauge display? Or..where can I read about it?

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

http://translate.google.ca/translate...m/&prev=search

Its a google translate page since it is all in turkish. I emailed the owner/maker direct and delt with him. He has pretty good english skills..

Basically the screen hooks into a box that has 8 inputs then power/ground. All boxes are standard with EGT input. so it gives you 7 user defined inputs and he builds them to your spec. You could have it do RPM also but I didnt want to waste an input on that since I have a tach. He can also calibrate it to work off of most GM sensors. He only require you use his pressure sensors. I think it was around $450ish shipped to my door for what I got. Which was...

Maxi display ($290)(the 2nd biggest, which fits in a 1Din slot)
EGT Sensor ($80?)
2 Temp sensors (free with the purchase)
1 Pressure sensor ($70)

So what i did was have him calibrate to some of my sensors

TPS (stock, just tap into it)
IAT (stock sensor, I bought a GM one that will be in the charge pipe next to the other stock one that will be for the PCM)
Coolant temp (stock sensor, I will run one in both heads, one for this, and one for the PCM)
Oil Temp (using one of the free sensors he suppies, which is a small 1/8npt)
Trans Temp (using one of the free sensors he suppies, which is a small 1/8npt)
Oil pressure (bought his sensor, so its calibrated to that)
MAP- Tap into the stock sensor and he calibrated it for a GM 3 bar
EGT- Bought his EGT, calibrated for that

Jay

Chris Etemadi

Jay,

When do you hope to have the maxi display in? I am very interested in seeing what it will end up like. I have looked into Arduino for a custom display panel in the past, and I am trying to weight the pros and con's of this system.

Do you have some more detailed process on the manifold welding? what kind of wire did you use? I have been playing around with the "Worst case" process of MIG welding with ER70-S wire and no heat treat, peening or post heat. I am getting some small cracking, likely due to no peening and post heat. Just trying to see what you had good luck with.

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

I started making the gauge panel last weekend and it was so cold out it snapped in half. So needless to say I gotta start over. Im hoping by the weekend I have the panel done and I can start wiring it. But I also dont have any wiring in the engine bay currently so it may be a while before I fire it up. Did you watch any of the youtube videos of it?

For welding the Mani's I ground them down until it was bare shinney metal, then heated them with a propane torch until they would start to brown a tad. Welded around a 1" strip, put the heat back on them, then cooled it in sand/glass bead. Just went back and forth between the 2 manifolds. I just used S6 wire and migstar gas (75/25 mix) Its what I use for everthing. I had my welder set to I think D-2 (110v Lincoln 140). I made sure to bevel the manifolds good to so I could get good penetration. I hope they hold up! My buddy didnt preheat his and has 2 summer on them. Same welder as me.

Jay

cheesehomer

iTrader: (2)

Great Job EH !
Gotta see how this turns out !
subscribed

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

As per usual its still cold as F in Canada lol. Didn’t get far on the car this weekend. I did however get all the plugs in and gapped, then the plug wires all modified. I put some sleeves on tall the plugs from Squeeze performance and also modified the passender side for downpipe clearance. I ended up taking the 45 degree boots off of the stock wires for the coil side then put those on my 8.5mm wires. Looks like it should work out decent. I may get some 45 degree spark plug side boots do they fit more snug to the plugs though. Last thing I want is spark jumping around.

For reference that is a 3.5” pipe. My downpipe will go from 4” for around 8 inches down to 3.5” all the way back. Im hoping to work on the downpipe this week/weekend and my trans mount. Then maybe get my gauges in since I have many people contacting me about the Innovate SCG1 and my Maxigauge.

Jay

Chris Etemadi

Nice progress! That is a really good idea with the spark plug boots. Did you even attempt to snake a 4" down pipe through there? I assume you are running the non/ac airbox correct? I am hoping to run a 4" dp in that location as the rest of my exhaust is 4", but it is not looking promising without some extensive work to the pipe or modification/removal of the air box completely.

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

I didnt bother trying a 4". It would work if I took the heater box (ac delete box) out and notched it I bet. I figured its 3.5" all the way back anyways. I dont think it will hold me back with the current combo.

Jay

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

Nice. So much room in the engine bay with the LS engine. I ran 3" to 4" at the firewall and 4" all the way back. Finally got my ignition setup fixed and now I have oil leaking on both sides of the turbo. WTF""" I hope I can just buy a rebuild kit for it instead of another turbo.

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

Despite being freezing last night I got the downpipe made. Currently stops right at about the ear on the trans. Im hoping I can get some time by the weekend to finish it off with a V-band.

Still need to clean up the intake and swap injectors. Got a bit dusty in the garage working on the gauge cluster last week.Sorry for the shitty pics lol.

Also for those wondering....at the turbo it is around 4 3/16 (4" slip), necks to 4" then reduces down to 3.5" all the way out.

Jay

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

We just got 34" of snow here

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

Did you run set back or stock location engine mounts? I hate the wording they use for them. In other words, is the transmission in the stock location or did you move it forward?

What kind of turbo is it? How many miles on it? Sounds like coking or worn rings. You can buy just the rings piece parts for Garrett.

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

No pics to update but I got the Walbro 450lph pump in the tank. Hoping I can finish making my trap door this week. Was a bit disappointed to find out my 87 doesnt have the electronic helper pump for a carbed car. From what I have read 1987 was the first year. Maybe mine was an early model or bc its canadian. Ended up modifying the carb pickup for the fuel pump by adding a 3/8's feed, using the old feed as a return.

The lines are also ran halfway up the car, just need to pickup some self tapers and I can finish up the lines.

I also somewhat started working on a trans mount but ran out of gas for my welder. Hoping I can finish up both projects next weekend and get back on the gauges.

Jay

zz17iroc

iTrader: (4)

One step at a time to achieve perfection, no need to rush!!! Looking good.

cam-

Norwood car? My 87 e-carb had no lift pump either.

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

I think it was a norwood car. Ill check again when I run the pump wiring. I have the mint build sheet still down there.

Really wasnt much work to put an pump on anyways. I debated buying a EFI sender but figured I would have to hack it up for the 450 pump anyways. Ended up double hose clamping it do the side of the old feed then used that as the return so the fuel would return basically right on top of the filter.

Jay

** I actually had to move the pump UP a tad more once I put the filter sock on to check since it was bottoming out somewhere. Also left the old 5/16 evap line untouched (plugged it) for when the time comes to add a second pump.
I also welded a nut to the top of the sender to ground the pump.

cheesehomer

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE=Jay_rich;5875891]I think it was a norwood car. Ill check again when I run the pump wiring. I have the mint build sheet still down there.

Where did you say that build sheet is ???? Are they all in the same place ?
Thanks George

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

Rear floor behind the driver seat under the carpet is where mine was.

Jay

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

Gauges are ready to be popped in and wired. I will get some pics of the panel and the gauges set in later tonight. I think it turned out decent. I really wish I would have went with a 5" speedo/tach like my last camaro and just mounted the volts/fuel level elsewhere though. Not a fan of the 3 3/8's. I feel they are too small. But im also not waiting another 2 months to custom order new ones!

Jay

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

Well the panel is basically done. (i added a warning LED above the display that is linked to the display for high/low warnings) Also added the display buttons down on the bottom right.

I put off wiring it until I get my trans mount, and my fuel pump trap door finished up. Hoping I can get into wiring it sometime this weekend.

The Fuel level and volts are the none visible ones by a quick look but its not like I stare at those while driving anyways.

I took another look into the trans mount this morning, I should be able to wrap that up pretty quickly next time I go out there.

Jay

zz17iroc

iTrader: (4)

Turned out pretty good, keep up the good work.

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

It looks like you are using stock feed and return lines. Both are known too small for the pump flow. It will "work", but shortens pump life and special tuning needs to be done for the overpressure at low engine fuel consumption.

I talked to Walbro about the acceptable voltage range the pump can handle. I think it is easier to in some cases to PWM the pump to vary the output. That is what i am doing in a sense. How are you managing the pump over fuel at low fuel consumption?

Where did you get the submersible electric wire and and that grommet in the sending unit?

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

I actually used a 3/8 feed that I made, and used the old stock 3/8 feed as a return. Connected to the sending unit is -8an feed and -6an for return. The Pump itself has a 5/16 Feed on it.

I will be running 14awg from the alternator back to a relay for the pump, then a 16awg for the relay trigger from the PCM.

Also the wire is regular wire but only the top inch maybe. It wont be submerged at that point of the tank. The pump came with the connector and about 4 inches of wire on it. Also its just a generic grommet and I used some gas safe goop on it (after the pic was taken)

Jay

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

You should be fine with the feed & return line. I thought it was 3/8 and 5/16.

Any non-fuel rated wire wire deteriorate when in contact with any fuel. Not sure about the grommet you used. There are sending unit bulkheads designed especially for what you did, but not sure why you didn't just use the existing wires at the sending unit.

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

There is no existing wires, this was a carb sending unit. There is only the wire for the fuel level.

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

Well dispite the cold I got out there saturday for a few hours until I couldnt feel my feet anymore lol.

I got the 4L80e Mount finished up. Just gotta finish grinding it up and paint it. Also pretty well have my fuel lines sorted out. Just need to cut the return to length, put a fitting on it and its all ready to go.

Hopefully I will get the trans ripped out this week and send it off to the builders, order a single disk converter and new flexplate (possible a billet one) within the next couple weeks and I decided to not bother having the stock PCM control the trans. I am going to order the TCI Trans controller.

I am also on the fence right now between just going all out and buying a MS3-PRO or the Eficource plug and play gold box. Both 1200usd one being a plug and play and saving me some wiring time the other being a DIY harness but has some badass features.. Figure if im droping like 3000cdn this week whats another 1600cdn lol. I should just hook up th stock pcm since my friend is loaning me his and his EFI live until his car runs. but once his car runs I will be stuck buying both.

Jay

Chris Etemadi

The trans crossmember looks great! Makes mine look like a pig!
What torque arm are you planning on running?

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

LOL Keep getting this question, shoulda snapped a pic. I Actually built one last winter. Basically a BMR track pack. I picked my dad up a UMI bolt in unit that comes with the trans crossmember for his 700r4 car and copied the design, machined my own brackets for the rear end then built my own for around $200 in material. I bought a BMR trak pack cross bar off grifter on here and welded that to the subframes. Next time im under the car Ill get a photo of it.

Jay

Chris Etemadi

Good deal, just wondering where it was mounting, as the crossmember would need to be a bit beefier if given the torque arm loading as well. Any plans to branch the D/S safety loop off of it in the future?

Honestly I am a impressed with the progress. I am surprised you are getting anything done with the weather you have had up there. I hope you have a good heater in the shop! Any general ETA for completion at this point?

I went a little overboard on mine including fishing some threaded plates in the sub frame to support the cross member better. Also I tried mocking the my turbo latitudinal in the front and I am not sure it is going to leave me much room for fans. So it looks like I will be exploring mounting the turbo in the general area that you did yours.

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

I have a DS loop also connected to the crossbar.

Surprisingly this year i havnt even used a heater just my flood light lol. I plan on putting a heater in for next winter and keeping it on a thermostat. Been brutal the last couple years. My old house I used a giant 285k btu propane heater but with the new house being attached garage and a newborn its probably not a good idea lol

Yours looks pretty overkill but for a good reason. I debated adding my Tq arm to it as well. I may do that in the future but will have to double up the crossbar.. I 1/8 thick for the 1" crossbar and used 3/16 thick angle iron on mine.

Ya T6 stuff is a pita to fit. I may end up going with a T6 next year though. Debating it since my last car I had to cut it up a lot!

Jay

Im aiming for the car to be done in May. Now that im adding a bunch of expensive parts to the list of stuff it may take that long!

Chris Etemadi

After looking at exactly where you have yours mounted I do not believe there is any way that the T6 475 will fit. You will likely have to modify the cross over when you decide to go bigger. I will try and get a picture for you with the S475 in that position.

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

Ya im banking on a t4 version to fit there. T6 would require me to move it....a lot LOL.

Well just bit the bullet on a Precision Industries Triple Disk 3800 stall and a TCI SFI flexplate!

Jay

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

Also I am picking up a 2006 4l80e instead of sending mine out for a rebuild. Im gonna get the 06 and install the HD2 kit in it and go.

Jay

Chris Etemadi

You won't be disappointed in either. The hardest part about building a car is waiting on the parts to be delivered. The while it was hard for me to justify the expense of the TCI plate, it is very beefy!

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

One of those deals I could not pass. Both brand new, the guy had them mocked in his projected and crashed his motorcycle so was parting his projects out. $1000 Shipped for both.

Jay

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

Well scratch the 06 trans. i picked it up thinking it was a simple swap from 4wd to 2wd. More work than I wanna do so Mine is going out on Saturday to the builders. Probably best off that way anyways. Sets me back a tad so the car may have to come out this season on the stock PCM which isnt horrible.

Jay

Chris Etemadi

Bummer on the transmission. While it is not difficult to swap out the output shaft, it does require some time. If the price was right, you may consider just buying it and doing it in your spare time. The output shafts can be had for less than $50 ebay.

How long do you expect the builder to have it?

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

Well I told him I dont need it for a month or so. But I doubt he will have it that long. I started wiring in my fuse panel so I think the motor should be wired 100% by next weekend if I get some free time. Gauges should be done around the same too. So more or less waiting on the trans and the car runs!

Just paid the insurance for the year today too! Looks like i could possibly have it done before may.

Converter and flex plate are ready for me to pick up in detroit, just trying to figure out EVERYTHING else I need and make 1 summit order and go over and pick everything up. Still debating which Yoke to buy.

Jay

Chris Etemadi

I would recommend that you have the builder throw a full spline output shaft if you don't have one already. I just turned the o-ring groove down and regretted it after seeing how much more spline engagement I could have gotten otherwise.

Looks like we may both be on the road about the same time! I find myself rarely making payments on the car, insurance, tags etc. when the car is actually roadworthy or even capable for that matter.

Just curious here; does Summit have a warehouse in Detroit that you can go pick it up from directly, or do you just have a location there to have it shipped to save time and money on shipping?

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

ya I was looking at that last night and checking what yoke I would need. Ill talk with him and see if he can track one down quick enough.

There is one in Akron Ohio which i have been to a around 5 or 6 times. Like a candy store! Its only a 3h drive but in the end not worth it bc I have to pay ohio sales tax. I ship to a place called "detroitmailbox.com" A guy in my town in Canada owns it. $5 to ship a package under 70lbs and $12 for bigger. They are litterally 3 blocks from the Tunnel/Border so its usually a 30min ordeal for me to get a package. I got sick of paying UPS Duty and brokerage fee's. To give an idea I made a $1200usd summit order around 6 years back, Paid $65 to ship it from summit. It showed up at my door and I have to pay $270cdn in taxes and fee's.

Jay

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

Trans and shift kit are at the builders. He is gonna check his sources for a full spline output shaft. Seems pretty confident in getting one. Hopefully the damage isnt too bad. He told me 2 weeks if that was good with me. So im hoping in the next 2 weeks I can get the trans tunnel all painted up, finish wiring the Harness and Wire all my gauges in. Then I basically should be ready to fire the car. A few small odds and ends then intercooler plumbing after the trans is in. Finally getting some positive temps around here so I need to get movin!

Jay

BDR

Damn I missed some updates! That dash and gauges look BAD ***!!!

BDR

Nice work on the trans crossmember! Also, whats holding up the turbo?

EDIT: nvm..no bracket, right? just being supported by the log/tubing.. ?

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

Thanks!

I bolted a bracket to the head. When I built my T4 flange I tapped the side and bolted on a bracket. I thought I added a pic earlier in the build. Ill check tomorrow for some pics.

Jay

BDR

cool. I'd like to see it. I'm going to fab up a turbo kit for my friend's truck..but wanted to see if anyone has made a bracket for it. Looks like another idea I'll pirate from you. :-)