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Thanks guys. I was going to go with the holley single plane as it was a tad shorter but already had vic jr rails. This combo still hits the stock hood so some trimming will be needed! I planned on pulling the hood for paint this winter anyways.
Next video should be alot better as I bought a SJcam 4000 with wifi. Similar to a gopro at 1/3 the cost!
Well just unloaded on a TIG Welder! May make up a new kit and jig it for and make a few more! Gonna try to make it similar to my current maybe with some sch10 stainless manifolds that will clear all accessories etc
Well just unloaded on a TIG Welder! May make up a new kit and jig it for and make a few more! Gonna try to make it similar to my current maybe with some sch10 stainless manifolds that will clear all accessories etc
Hoping to make some as well! Sadly it dropped to -10*c here and snow. And yet another year goes by where im going to install a heater in my garage and never follow through LOL.
Pretty well all I have left is redo part of the charge piping, install the shifter then pull the trans to get rebuilt. Depending on funds I may send the converter out for a restall as well.
Hoping to make some as well! Sadly it dropped to -10*c here and snow. And yet another year goes by where im going to install a heater in my garage and never follow through LOL.
Pretty well all I have left is redo part of the charge piping, install the shifter then pull the trans to get rebuilt. Depending on funds I may send the converter out for a restall as well.
Jay
No snow here yet and its almost the middle of January. I just freshened up my 355 a little bit and now waiting on funds to get the hot side coated.. I have thought about wrapping it instead but we shall see.
Not much to post about. Pretty well just need to clip the harness on and fire it up. This may be my last summer with the car. Made a deal with the wife that allows me to buy my dream car. Not even sure how much to ask for this car. Im gonna enjoy it as much as I can this year. I will not sell it until I am 100% ready to buy the new car and find the right one.
Gen 1/2 Viper. When I had my 2000 FRC vette that was supposed to be my stepping stone into getting a viper. But I decided to get back into a 3rd gen again.
This may not happen but im going to try my best to get one. Still thinking im going to jig up some turbo kits for third gens though. I pretty well have my garage all setup for it.
Shifter is all adjusted, just need to make a new panel for it and wire up the lights etc.
Charge piping is complete!
All thats left is a couple vacuum lines and bleed the cooling system. I even pulled the hood cleared it for the elbow and repainted it.
Debating picking up a hawks 5", some smoked signals and possible a trans controller. My Trans builder thingks my issue is tune related. I really dont think it is.
Fired it up last night, Seems to be running nice and smooth. I did swap out the IAC as a kinda messed mine up last year and just never replaced it. Of course I had a video on my SJcam and deleted the wrong one! Ill get another this week and maybe get a walk around.
Made a shifter plate. Shifter was a bit higher than I would like but pretty well had to in order to be able the access the reverse lockout easily. Made out of 3/16 aluminum in two pieces. I think I'm going to try to find something that matches the interior a bit better. I just used some satin black I had. Was gonna take it for a spin today but it's been raining all day.
Also I think I still have the cooling issue I had last year. Seems like an air pocket but I can't get it! Even bought one of those funnels for the rad. Unless maybe my water pump is shot?
It is climb into the 200s as soon as a blip the throttle or drive it drops. I have had it drop to like 165 crusing on a cold morning literally 30 seconds after it was a 210+. I may just swap the pump. Cheap enough.
I think I may have figured my cooling issues. Im running a LS1 pump/thermostat. I blocked off the heater ports but with the older style it doesnt allow coolant to flow around the thermostat and cavitates the pump. So I will be hooking up the heater core tonight then rebleeding. I guess the other alternative if you block them off is to drill a small 3/16 hole beside the thermostat so it flows coolant all the time.. Figure hooking up heater hoses is much simpler.
Well at least I hope thats my issue.
Strange that I never had any issues with my last camaro having them blocked off
intersting. I Just tapped and plugged my new procomp high flow mechanical water pump and i hope I won't have your issues. I did drill s 1/8" hole in the Tstat before install as it helps with air pockets and bleeding esp if not using a byapss.
On the LS1 style Tstats the first plate that fits into the inner area of the waterpump (by the rear/block side of the waterpump) has 4 holes drilled into it if I remember... that would let coolant flow from the back cavity into the front cavity which would bypass the heater hose ports anyways.
See 4 holes in small plate? that rests against the first inner ridge inside the Waterpump http://cdn3.volusion.com/5cfxm.hxrs6...jpg?1369998106 before that plate with the 4 holes there is the back water space flow from the waterpump impeller. The heater port closes to the block is in that same void. Then the small plate with 4 holes seperates the next "void" which has the other heater port. That void is then sealed off from the water neck via the rubber seal and the thermostat. That outer seal/plate also has a loose fitting plug that will allow some coolant/air to pass through for bleeding.
I drilled another 1/8" hole so more air/water can pass through and be bled off. But since that first plate has 4 holes the water should flow from the rear cavity to the next cavity and bypass the heater ports completely even if they are blocked off.
I don't think your issue is that simple. But it would be easier to just drill a 1/8" hole in the Tstat and resemble. Verfy the style of Tstat you have and if not like the one I showed I would drill holes in both plates. Or order a new one... my 160 mr gasket (same as pictured) was less than $18 from summit. By any chance did you block off the steam vent system?
I have a 160 stat for the older ls1 which is a complete unit, I believe it's a "speedinc" one, which actually says motorad on the outside which I thought was weird.. It didn't have any holes iirc. Usually I run hypertecs
Anyways hooked up my heater core direct to the pump. No issues! Filled the heater core with coolant, hooked the lines up, installed my burp/spill free funnel and filled that up. Bam idled the car for prob 20-25min while it's was burping itself. Couldn't get it above 170s with the fan on. Unplugged the fans to get it up to 190ish. As soon as I hooked them back up it dropped into the 170s.
Needless to say I'm pretty happy.
Jay
Originally Posted by customblackbird
intersting. I Just tapped and plugged my new procomp high flow mechanical water pump and i hope I won't have your issues. I did drill s 1/8" hole in the Tstat before install as it helps with air pockets and bleeding esp if not using a byapss.
On the LS1 style Tstats the first plate that fits into the inner area of the waterpump (by the rear/block side of the waterpump) has 4 holes drilled into it if I remember... that would let coolant flow from the back cavity into the front cavity which would bypass the heater hose ports anyways.
See 4 holes in small plate? that rests against the first inner ridge inside the Waterpump http://cdn3.volusion.com/5cfxm.hxrs6...jpg?1369998106 before that plate with the 4 holes there is the back water space flow from the waterpump impeller. The heater port closes to the block is in that same void. Then the small plate with 4 holes seperates the next "void" which has the other heater port. That void is then sealed off from the water neck via the rubber seal and the thermostat. That outer seal/plate also has a loose fitting plug that will allow some coolant/air to pass through for bleeding.
I drilled another 1/8" hole so more air/water can pass through and be bled off. But since that first plate has 4 holes the water should flow from the rear cavity to the next cavity and bypass the heater ports completely even if they are blocked off.
I don't think your issue is that simple. But it would be easier to just drill a 1/8" hole in the Tstat and resemble. Verfy the style of Tstat you have and if not like the one I showed I would drill holes in both plates. Or order a new one... my 160 mr gasket (same as pictured) was less than $18 from summit. By any chance did you block off the steam vent system?
Still yet to test the damn car! Was going to Saturday then my rich idle bit me in the *** fouling all the plugs. I never worked on my hard cold start last year. Finally started messing with the tune and its pretty close for cold start now. I pulled around 60% out of my cranking VE! Hoping to do some driving tonight and again on Friday. So much harder to get seat time with a little one and working 10+hr a day.
Finally got to drive it. Now that I have activated all the proper 4l80e codes it is actually throwing codes and putting it in limp mode I think. Trans guy is gonna let me borrow his scanner to check everything.
P0713- temp sensor fault
P0748- pressure solenoid
Both seem to be a rare issue and point at the internal harness having issue
Bought a new harness and swapped it last night. The old harness checked out fine. Im going to check the resistance on the pressure solenoid to see if thats fine. I did however just notice I forgot to shut off the trans pressure modifiers for if there is a MAF code. Didnt even think about shutting the MAF codes off in the trans diagnostics. I think I did my trans segmant swap after I did my custom OS, that must be why I missed that.
Gonna toss another tune in it and test tomorrow. If I am getting no where my buddy is going to let me use his aftermarket TCM to test. Also the trans builder said I could use his Scanner on it.
MUCH smoother now! Doesnt slam, idles down better etc. Yet to drive long enough to test the chatter. Needless to say im pretty happy. Time for a cold one...or a dozen.
Just did a 45min cruise with my daughter. So much better! No longer slams into reverse or the 1-2 shift. The converter locks up now as well! No time to work on the auto VE tune and cold start. Still having a big issue with the cold start.
Well sorry still no pictures or video updates, the only video I got may give you sea sickness lol.
Took it out last night, cold start is almost nailed. had to lower my fuel pressure a tad and rescale the VE. Slowly getting there. Drives like its stock now. Shifts smooth. its so smooth I dont even feel it going into reverse when its warm.
For some reason im having troubles keeping the tires glued to the road after 3000rpm....
Jay, looks like you have been making some good progress on the car! I definitely know the feeling of relief after being able to find/correct an issue after thinking you have all your bases covered.
I stumbled on your thread over at EFI live last night while looking for answers to my cold start issues myself. I also have issues with hot starts, similar to the cold start, where it will fire up for a second and then stumble and die.
When cold, it will generally be able to catch and slowly stabilize after 2-3 attempts with no pedaling, but when hot it will generally need some peddling to get it past the stumble, once I get past that is surges to life. I have noticed some odd things that I was curious as to what you are seeing in your logs. Do you log commanded AFR and Dynamic air? My commanded AFR during cranking is calling for super lean AFR (~20:1), which probably isn’t helping my condition.
I made some changes last night, but haven’t had the chance to try it out. I have also been noticing that my dynamic airflow readings are much lower initially than my friend’s combo which is virtually identical (5.3, cam, heads, intake, 80lb injectors) except that his is currently N/A with a 1 SD bar tune and mine is boosted with a 3 bar SD tune. Mine will show MAYBE 12 g/sec for a couple seconds after startup before dropping quickly to 7-8 g/sec where it stays. My friends log shows Dynamic airflow of mid 20’s at startup and slowly tapering to 7-8 when warm.
I hope all my blabbing made sense. Odd that we are in the same boat with the startup issues. Good luck on getting it all worked out!
You are HP tuners correct? I ended up tossing a stock ls1 VE in and the car fired up no issues. I know mine called for a fairly lean start up warm. I have my newest tune on efilive right now if you want go download that and go over it.
Desired airflow I have added a tad over a stock ls1 but not too much. Have you reset your throttle body? This helped huge. I basically adjusted the throttle stop until it read 3-4%. Shut the key off. Pulled the tps connecter. Turned the key on for 5-10sec. Then shut it off and plugged the tps in. It should set it back to zero. This eliminates drilling the throttle body. Helps big on cammed cars.
Jay
Originally Posted by Chris Etemadi
Jay, looks like you have been making some good progress on the car! I definitely know the feeling of relief after being able to find/correct an issue after thinking you have all your bases covered.
I stumbled on your thread over at EFI live last night while looking for answers to my cold start issues myself. I also have issues with hot starts, similar to the cold start, where it will fire up for a second and then stumble and die.
When cold, it will generally be able to catch and slowly stabilize after 2-3 attempts with no pedaling, but when hot it will generally need some peddling to get it past the stumble, once I get past that is surges to life. I have noticed some odd things that I was curious as to what you are seeing in your logs. Do you log commanded AFR and Dynamic air? My commanded AFR during cranking is calling for super lean AFR (~20:1), which probably isn’t helping my condition.
I made some changes last night, but haven’t had the chance to try it out. I have also been noticing that my dynamic airflow readings are much lower initially than my friend’s combo which is virtually identical (5.3, cam, heads, intake, 80lb injectors) except that his is currently N/A with a 1 SD bar tune and mine is boosted with a 3 bar SD tune. Mine will show MAYBE 12 g/sec for a couple seconds after startup before dropping quickly to 7-8 g/sec where it stays. My friends log shows Dynamic airflow of mid 20’s at startup and slowly tapering to 7-8 when warm.
I hope all my blabbing made sense. Odd that we are in the same boat with the startup issues. Good luck on getting it all worked out!
Wow havnt updated this in a while! Car is still driving great no issues...well a rear end issue but ill figure that out this winter. I think someone set it up wrong before I got it. Makes a loud POP when turning right from a stop. Hasn't effected how it drives though.
Anyways few new goodies one the way. Finally replacing the stock signals with some smoked ones. Ordered a set of Bride Gratition seats, a Nardi steering wheel. Really hope the nardi was worth all the cash and headache to find an adapter for the cash it cost! As well as im working on making a diffuser, front splitter and wing extension, but if anyt of them dont look right they wont be staying lol! The splitter is gonna take some time since out bumpers actually angle up.
Other than that the car is currently on 11-12psi and running strong! already tripled the mileage i put on last summer.
Well the wing's (made one with and one without a third brake light) are getting water jetted today or tomorrow out of 1/8 aluminum! Kinda excited to see it on. Did some last minute tweaks last night so match the contour of the stock spoiler so it doesnt look out of place.
Also messed with the front splitter design. I was going to come off the sides of the fenders a tad but I found it to look to over the top racecar. So I switched it to just match the front contour with a minor twist. Should also look good. The hard part will be forming the gap. Not too sure when im going to order the material for that. The splitter and diffuser may turn into a winter project.
Not complete yet but an idea. I picked up a spare non brake light spoiler and made two if these spoilers one for each. Turned out to be a 82-84 spoiler so it's a bit off from my stock one.
The bad....about a month ago I change my lower rad hose and while bleeding the coolant the balancer came off. so I tightened it back up drove the car a bit and it happened again. So I ended up making a fixture and I double doweled it. Well to make sure the pan was clean I dumped out down the front seal. And jacked the car up on an angle to get everything out. Looks like a decent amount of bearing material is in the pan. Pressure was normal last drive so I'm just gonna hope for the best. But I'm thinking when the balancer spun I bet a chip or something when through the engine.
Hope it gets me by the rest of the season. Then decide what I wanna do. Another short block, or do an ls2 or 3. . I do also wanna go t56. So lots of decisions to make.
Got the seats in last night. Ended using the factory sliders and welded plates to the bottom for the one rail that was moved over 2". I wish they were a tad shorter. Drivers side is perfect. Passenger side is great too if the seat is back. More forward it feels tighter which may be an issue since my wife and daughter sit on that side.
Motor seems to be fine! Did a couple quick blasts around. Amazed what changing the seats and steering wheel did to the car. I literally feel like I'm in a go-cart. Steering feels nicer and more firm.
Love the video. I am trying to learn about turbos, before i do my install. Awesome seeing it actually work.
Is that a go pro Camera? If so what model and how well do you like it?
Its an SJcam 4000 with wifi. i think its pretty good for the price. Hard to hear video with the waterproof case on but I hear gopro's are the same. It was only like $150cdn.
T56 swap underway. Probably a 2 hour swap from trans to trans then around 2 hours of swearing at trying to get the damn Master cylinder bolt bracket in. What a pita. All thats left is to bleed the master, wire the lockout/reverse/neutral safety and toss in the driveshaft! Oh and make a new interior panel.
Hoping Friday night to finish it off to the point where I can be bleeding the master. Maybe a test spin later this weekend. Then start on the winter mods.
-MS3-Gold
-Look into the rear end, been POPPING really bad turning right
-Start working on the diffuser
Swap for the most part is complete, waiting on getting a shift boot so I can button up the interior. Drove it around the block last night, going to require a lot of tuning again!
Honestly just fun factor. I know the car will be slower and less reliable but I really don't have the time to race anymore so wanted the car to be more enjoyable.
Also just waiting on the shift boot. Made a plate quickly at work the other day.
I'm in the same boat. The 2004R has been great, quick hard shifts and great cruising but manual cars are always more fun. Being able to bang gears just makes it more enjoyable. As you have to be paying attention to the car and everything going on.
I would do a Tko 600 if your willing to sell lol. But not fun doing in an auto car.
Looks good jay. should be a blast with the six speed in there. What did you do for a clutch?
Edit. I missed you wrote monster stage 4
No biggy ya, monster stage 4. I was VERY leary about it as there isnt many reviews and many people say dont DD it. Well all i can say is I havnt driven stick in 3-4 years since I had my C5 and its not too harsh at all. Yes the pedal is firm as expected with that clutch and the tick master but it drives decently smooth. Only complaint is going into my garage since I have to turn going uphill. Still not use to it and end up chattering my way into the garage. Im sure my neighbors are like look at this piece of crap. LOL
I must say though, im glad I made the swap, took it out for a rip saturday night, so much fun to revmatch downshift and drive around, even took it into work today, plan on driving it all week since I just got my LS1 gas tank and need to empty the tank out. Getting fed up with running out of fuel every corner at 1/2 tank.
I'm in the same boat. The 2004R has been great, quick hard shifts and great cruising but manual cars are always more fun. Being able to bang gears just makes it more enjoyable. As you have to be paying attention to the car and everything going on.
I would do a Tko 600 if your willing to sell lol. But not fun doing in an auto car.
I have done a 700r4 before and will never do again...kept burning 3-4. Trans was built by a reputable builder but I hated the tv cable setup. I fixed it myself and sold it. Bought a Tko 600, Lakewood Bellhousing,Spohn driver shaft and a Spec 5 clutch as well as 4th gen hydraulics..
