ZZ3Astro

Amazing what having the right company around will make you accomplish. Just need to pick up a few bolts on the engine can go in!

zz17iroc

iTrader: (4)

Slow and steady progress is a good thing. I don't think those brakes are going to work on your car, but they will work on my car lol Looking good buddy.

ZZ3Astro

Finally back from my trip and got the Iroc back on the lift to install/finish the K-Member bolts. Getting the car from the stall in one end of the shop to the other with the lift was a chore. I had picked up some vehicle dollies at harbor freight (the heavy duty ones). They work great until you put the weight of a car on them. I tore them down, greased each wheel bushing and put them back together. At least I was able to move it then but it took a good bit of work. Finally got it lined up for the lift and went to work..

Finishing the k-member install turned into a mini-disaster. Two of the bolts (both main driver side bolts) were taking too many turns to torque. I stopped at 110 on the middle bolt but it was already feeling 'wrong'. I tried the front bolt to 110 but it let go before 100. The rest I stopped at 80 ft lbs. Everywhere I've read shows 130 ft lbs for the third gen. I'm reading up on some threads now of people with similar experiences to see what my options are. I'll weld that POS on if I have to.

Meanwhile I went to put the brake lines on from my old k-member since the previous owner of the tubular k-member decided to cut the lines instead of unbolting them from the proportioning valve (ironically I had asked for that valve too so clearly I was going to use it). No big deal I figured, just re-bend the lines from my car per the k-member instructions. WRONG. Different type of flare fitting on my car than his. He had reused his lines too, but they are threaded all the way to the end. Mine have a step before the threads start. They won't reach the threads on the braided lines that run out to the calipers. SMH.

Next up, I fought the engine mounts for a good hour to get the engine bolts to line up. Finally got the engine bolted in and had enough for the night.. perhaps for the week. UGH.

To cap off the already frustrating startup of work this week, the Pro-Flo Vortec intake I had ordered in early August ship date was pushed back yet again. I called Edelbrock and they said in fact it won't ship until at least early November. I realized the non-powder coated version was back in stock so I cancelled and re-ordered that one. I'll just get it powder coated locally at some point. So at least I should have an intake tomorrow.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

That's odd. I have the same dollies and use them to move my car around as well, never had an issue. How smooth is the concrete floor?

I pulled the trigger on the impact gun until the bolt stopped. Gun was set to 150 or so ft/lbs.

Those are cool looking intakes. I wish I had tried one.

-- Joe

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

I dont remember the Kmember bolts being that high. I thought it was closer to 80ftlbs but Mine is a racecraft moly Kmember and uses much shorter grade 8 bolts. Stock is 130ftlb.

ZZ3Astro

Joe, from what I've read in various forums other people have experienced the same. My floors are smooth and painted. After greasing the bushings it's easier to move the car but still a chore to start it moving. I think casters with bearings instead of bushings would be a good start. Also the directional bearing is extremely notchy feeling with a little pressure on them by hand, so I'm sure with 200 lbs it gives a lot of resistance to turning as well.


I can't wait to see how this intake does. I will also do a comparison between this new vortec version and the non-vortect one my youtube friend sent me. Without having them side by side, I already noticed the injector "bump" at the top of the runner seems to be much smaller than the old intake. There is some core shift in the casting so I'll probably spend a while with the sander bits like I did on the heads. I'll try to get some dimensions before I do that.


Customblackbird - I wish I'd just stopped at 80 on all of them. I almost want to take the one bolt out that isn't as bad, just to look at the threads and see if the bolt was the failure point. They are grade 8 (or better) so I doubt it. Still undecided how I will handle this problem.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I didnt torque my kmember bolts

ZZ3Astro

Every time I've ever had a problem like this it was using a torque wrench!! I'll have to reconsider doing things "the right way" moving forward. Some things it works well for, obviously internal engine fasteners and lug nuts.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Exactly lol

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I use the impact gun on lug nuts too haha. I told a Corvette guy that once at a car show and he looked at me like I kicked his dog.

When my family owned the dealership that's how we did wheels on literally tens of thousands of cars and never had a problem.

Then again, my mom always told me if I didn't study hard in school I'd end up "turning wrenches with the grease monkeys in the shop", so who knows.

-- Joe

ZZ3Astro

Intake is here and looks awesome. I have the transmission in now so I can mock up the turbo system to make sure there are no clearance issues caused by the new k-member. Once it's all together I am going to mark and shorten the crossover pipe so it doesn't hang down lower than the crossmember. At the same time I will mark and cut out the stock battery tray location to allow the larger compressor's 3 inch outlet of the 7675 to point beneath it to run to the intercooler. At some point I have to try and shoe-horn this new thicker radiator in as well, though I may drive it with the stock radiator for now and do the radiator closer to the spring warmup.

ZZ3Astro

Progress is being made but I've been sidetracked with getting the shop set up better. I had three rolling workbenches built and installed a 36 foot shelf across the back wall. Also added more outlets and set up my stereo. The floor is now clear! Everything is organized and I can get things done.


On the Iroc, I did a test fit of the turbo system and everything looks great. I do need to shorten the crossover tube so it doesn't hang below the crossmember, but I'm going to get it driving first. There are a few loose ends I need to address before proceeding with installing everything.. one of those was to deal with the brackets I built to support the weight of the turbo. I never painted them and they looked rusty and awful. One thing lead to another and I picked up a blasting box and a powder coating gun. Since my Brembo calipers look pretty bad (color and condition) I had already planned on having them blasted and powder coated. I also want to powder coat some other parts so I justified spending the money to set myself up for it.


So far, so good. I did the brackets first in a matte black. I ordered some gloss black and a chrome powder from Eastwood. That showed up Saturday so I took one of the old front calipers and bead blasted it and shot it in chrome. Then I masked off the chrome with a hand cut chevy logo (that means a crappy job of making it) and shot the black over it. It turned out great. I'm trying to fine tune the method I want to use on the Brembos before I start on them. Next up I'm buying a vinyl cutting machine so I can make IROC-Z labels that fit onto the calipers. They will most likely end up being done in black-chrome with silver logos and then a clear coat over them.


No engine progress yet.. Hopefully this week I'll get some things buttoned up.

zz17iroc

iTrader: (4)

Looking good, keep slugging away at it!

ZZ3Astro

Several things going on.. I've been working on the powder coating process to establish the steps I need to get the calipers to the color I want them to be. I picked up a vinyl cutter and have been making some test pieces. I'm close to a final method and learning each day. Today I learned DO NOT put the baked pieced at the top of the oven. It's too hot up there and I ruined the clear and the test piece as a result. Still, I was able to get an idea of how it will all look when it is done.


Secondly, I've probably got a big surprise coming this week. Depending on how things turn out tomorrow, some of you could be really pleased or really shocked! Alternatively, nothing may happen at all if things don't line up right.


I haven't wrenched on the Iroc this week at all. Lots of other things going on and it's been hot again. Soon as it cools off I'll be working on it.


On to the powder coating tests... please keep in mind I was making no effort for a clean coating here. I was only trying to establish the steps needed to get the look I want. Once I have that sorted out I will make a 'perfect' test piece before I start doing actual calipers.





Coated with chrome powder, baked, and vinyl stencil applied.





First layer of chrome black applied.





Second layer of chrome black applied over everything. Ready for clear-coating disaster





Inside the wheel after the clear-coating mess up.. but gives and idea of the look. Of course the rotor would be nice and shiny behind it.

ZZ3Astro

And the surprise has become a reality... out with the GT-R and in with:





This will put the Iroc back on the front burner of performance. I so like the S550 Mustangs though and a good chance I will get one in the next year or so. Hopefully the Iroc behaves so doesn't go the way of the GT-R for that event. I'd like to keep it around after all of this work.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Very nice pickup Steve! I myself am going to wait for next Spring before I buy my next sports car because we're supposed to have a bad Winter, but damn, you're making me want to race to the dealer today lol. How the hell do you post a picture like that and not give any damn details lol? Did you at least upload a video giving a walk around yet on youtube?

ZZ3Astro

I'm working on a video. Right now just a video explaining my rationale for trading in the GT-R.


Car is a 2017 2SS Fifth Edition. It's just like getting in the GT-R (unlock buttons, push start, visibility, dimensions) but with comfort and modern features and of course less power. Everything is a trade-off. I miss the GT-R but I don't.


Now I've really got to get to work on the Iroc. Brake caliper fun going in full swing now.

zz17iroc

iTrader: (4)

Nice!

ZZ3Astro

Took a break from the car stuff for a few months and now I'm finally wrenching on the Iroc. I'm going to just leave the 700R4 and 9 bolt in place for now so I can get the new engine combo running and see what it has. I'm not too far from being able to start it up, mostly just putting it back together.




I just have to get this Pro-Flo XT intake sorted out and mount it and then the turbo system. Most of the rest of it is back together now. I'm having a lot of little annoyances with the Pro-Flo.. just the various differences from the stock vacuum ports etc. And no way to make my 2.5" injectors work with the throttle/TV cable bracket. Now if I can find some 95 lb injectors in the picco style I'll be in good shape. I was hoping to use my 95 lb 2" injectors from the gtr (need two more) but doesn't look like they would let the fuel rail clear the bracket either.


Always fun, these aftermarket parts.

Drac0nic

Get to it, I am still waiting to come out of hibernation up here in the North personally.

ZZ3Astro

Progress! On top of the other 300 projects going on I have been steadily working on the Iroc for the past couple of weeks. I decided to use .5" injector extenders on the GT-R 95lb/hr injectors and run the fuel rail at the upper position. This means the included pro-flo throttle/tv cable bracket won't fit (at all) but I just got a small cnc plasma table so I'm going to make a new bracket that fits the stock 700r4 tv cable and the 98 LS1 throttle cable. I picked up an 86 LG4 upper radiator hose and using the stock ZZ3 water neck which just clears the throttle body. I had to drill out the lower throttle body bolt holes on the intake to widen them for the LS2/LS3 throttle body bolt pattern (will use nuts on the back side of the intake flange for the lower bolts).


Anyway it is very close to first firing.. I'm going to put the 65lb injectors in for first start. I need to address the following things:


Build new short fuel lines from rails to regulator/return line/feed
Adjust rocker arms
Modify end bolt holes for headers (vortec outer bolts are about 1 mm wider than L98)
Install headers/spark plugs/plug wires
Finish up power steering/AC compressor install and belts
Build new 3" charge tubing turbo to intercooler to throttle body


I also need to deal with the brakes and decide if I'm going to go ahead and put in the 9 inch now or drive it first. I also have that new radiator but in no hurry to deal with that either.

ZZ3Astro

Headers are on.. I really had to massage the flange bolt area for cylinders 1, 2, 7 and 8. Seems Vortec heads have those ports ever so slightly further outward. Either that or these castings are slightly off which wouldn't surprise me based on how they looked when I received them. Rocker arms are adjusted. Distributor is set. I cranked her over and have good oil flow.


Next up will be spark plugs and wires then I can put the rest of the turbo setup in place so I can start on the fuel lines and charge tubing.

Drac0nic

Vortecs are indeed ever so slightly wider from my understanding.

Big, White & Sl

You're not too far from me. I wouldn't mind checking that out one day

ZZ3Astro

Big White sounds good to me. Hopefully it will at least be able to start up shortly.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

That little dude in your recent videos gives me the impression of a serial killer...

Check his trunk for sacrificial cat heads lmao... j/k

ZZ3Astro

I'll keep an eye on him!




Latest update: Spark plugs are in. I spun it over to find uneven compression so went to do a compression test.... Starter died. New start (lifetime warranty finally put to use after 7 years). Wow huge improvement on start rpm. Found the problem (#1 exhaust rocker adjusted a smidge too tight). Spent the day in town sourcing bolts for the torque converter - I had switched back to the Vigilante and it has different bolts than the PTC. Got the rest of the accessories in place. Mounted up the turbo for a test fit and charge pipe planning.


So we have oil pressure.. spark plugs.. I have the fuel fittings ready to install. I'm looking at a test fire by late next week. Still a very long ways to go to get it driving though.

86CamaroDan

Im doing heads/cam myself and im anxious to see how this turns out in comparison.

86CamaroDan

Also how much boost are you running?

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

I'm subscribed to your channel Steve, and I'm loving the updates...

By the way that spider patrol you got there is hilarious, very cute lol...

Supposed to be heading down there this year, long overdue. If you're around will try to stop by.

ZZ3Astro

Street Lethal - let me know and come on by to see the spider patrol! LOL


CamaroDan unknown at this time but I'm figuring around 14-16 should be plenty on this new combo. I'm still running weak rods so I need to keep it around 600 rwhp until I build a new bottom end.

ZZ3Astro

First startup!! Started right up once the injectors primed. Idles no problem but there seems to be an issue with the new TPS. I'm using F.A.S.T. adapter cables to run the LS style TPI and IAC. The IAC seems happy but the TPI doesn't seem to be telling the MS2 that I'm moving the throttle to open. I lost my laptop with a serial port and the replacement only has USB. I'll have to try an adapter but sure wish my MS2 had USB instead of that stupid serial port. I've had bad luck with those adapters working with various ECMs.


Next I've got to get the cooling system buttoned up and the driveshaft in place. I lost the needle bearings from a cap. Decided to try buying a cheap u-joint and borrowing the cap. I just need it to work temporarily until I get around to the 9 inch install. Hoping by next week I will have the car where it can drive itself in and out of the shop. Will be a while before I get the charge tubing built and other various mods needed to get the new setup right.


You can really hear the cam in cold start now.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

What bothers me Steve is the fuel pressure at 2:00 into the video. Your girl is priming the fuel pressure for you, and although it spikes at over 50-psi, it immediately drops and settles back down at 20-psi from where it was initially after the first two key on triggers. You're not showing the fuel pressure gauge during the rest of the video, but if pressure does not hold at 40-psi after you shut the engine down, and if it falls down that fast, then there is a fueling issue, either in the tank, in the lines, or in the regulator somewhere. That might be why your stalling out if that is the case, because pressure should hold. Either way I'm glad to hear the engine run, it's been awhile...

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

hey street, I'm going to have to respectfully disagree. His fuel system is probably working 100%. It's common for 95% of aftermarket regulators to not hold pressure once the pump stops and it's just due to there high flow design. Also performance regulators don't need to hold pressure when the pump is not running. Holding pressure with the key off is an OEM thing to help with restarts and emissions. My aeromotive regulator will not hold pressure for even .5s after the key is off... it goes right to zero in 1s. But once the key is on the pressure is back up at 60psi. It's a bleed off thing that is even stated in most of all aeromotive manuals.

Steve! Looks good, be sure to junk that liquid fuel pressure gauge tho they are horrible especially in the engine compartment and will give you false readings when they get hot or cold. Or you can just drain the silicone fluid out. I was seeing a good bit of error with mine a few years back so I drained the fluid and it's accurate as ever now.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

I won't argue with that because I don't run an Aeromotive, but my Mallory never did that. Anyways this is why I stated it may be the problem because he didn't show the pressure regulator during the engine idling afterward, only during that initial prime. If he blips the throttle while the engine idles, and if his pressure drops during that blip, then there is his culprit. Could honestly be quite a few things causing that stall, but it is something to eliminate as a possibility though. Engine does sound nice though, I know he was holding his breath prior to that first start for sure lol...

ZZ3Astro

Thanks guys.. I think the drop is from this regulator. I can't remember if my previous Aeromotive did it. I really don't know anything about this one as I picked it up along with the non-vortec Pro-Flo intake that a youtube subscriber sent me. It was set for 60 psi and I dropped it down to around 38 psi. I'm trying to err on the side of lean for these initial starts since I have a nice new set of plugs I don't want to replace soon.


I came up with a USB to Serial adapter last night and was able to diagnose the problem today. Bad TPS. The comments on this throttle body said it would be junk and it was. But it only added about $10 for the IAC and TPS so I took the gamble. The IAC seems to work and an OEM IAC costs more than the entire throttle body did. Anyway it works right at idle and WOT. It goes 0 to 20, back to 0 and back to 40 and back to 0 and then jumps to 30 and goes to 100% as you smoothly advance from idle to WOT.


I figured out a path for the heater hose. All I have to do is blast and powder coat the thermostat housing in the morning and run to town for the 3/4" fitting and a new TPS and I should be able to start it up and let it run. Hoping I will have the turbo mounted by this weekend so I can rev it up and see how it spools.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Good job! I tell ya Steve, you motivated me to get mine done. Was looking for Dave to get me going, but he is MIA at the moment lol. Had a few ideas for you regarding the coolant lines, but you seem to be okay in that department now...

ZZ3Astro

One thing getting rid of the GTR and buying the 2SS Fifty has done.. is left me starving for some boost. For driving around the 2SS is great but at 140 mph it feels like a slug compared to the GTR or Iroc... so it is time to get back to some boost!

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

You need to pack up that Iroc and take a road trip up north for a week or two, catch up with us over on Ratchet Friday's and take in the sites. Time to get back to boost ehh? Check out the thrust at 1:15 into the video. Florida's racing scene seems dead...

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Where are you travelling at 140 mph ?

-- Joe

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

I think he means just short blasts Joe, the boost gets you there instantaneously from 60-mph, and I can attest to the GTR wanting to keep pulling way after that. If the insurance wasn't a killer, I probably would still have mine...

ZZ3Astro

With a GTR 140 is just about any stretch of highway free of traffic


160 is not a big deal either but north of that uses up unbelievable amounts of roadway ahead and is reserved for extremely rare occasions. High mph is where those cars really shine.


Well my effort to save money by using an ebay throttle body has finally bitten me good. The TPS was bad of course but when I stuck the Borg Warner replacement on, it fit very tightly and I thought jeez I'll have to break it to get it off if I push it any further... and stupidly decided to pull it back off which broke it in half. I just picked up a Master Pro (cheaper) and it also fits too tight. So the shaft is a touch bigger than LS1 - oops. So now I'm out $70 in senders which has almost doubled my investment in this thing. I mean at least I haven't spent $500 for the edelbrock throttle body yet but I'm getting closer to that price tag. Ugh..


So now I am grinding the shaft. Already have the cooling system done. Tonight if the TPS sorts itself out I will bolt on the turbo and exhaust so I have a working O2. Then it's just front brakes, tires and fabricate the new 3 inch charge tubing and I'll drive it.

ZZ3Astro

Just started it up with the downpipe on.


O M G

ZZ3Astro

That sound though!

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

... lol, look at that big damn grin on your face, that says it all. Too funny.

86CamaroDan

That final moment when it all comes together. Best feeling ever. Car sounds great

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

How come I'm in NJ and never heard of this lol. Etown is 30 min from me. IS it every friday?

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

Just get stock used TB. They are cheap and work 100% of the time. People have pushed stock TBs to over 800whp. Ive heard the Ebay and cheap TBs can have lots of idle/low rpm tuning issues. Also anythiing bigger than stock size (if your using the Stock PCM will need changes to account for the bigger TB size/opening.

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

Car and turbo sound amazing tho. A bit loud (exhaust for me) but the turbo spool is a beautiful thing. I wish I would have went turbo over my Supercharger now.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Me too, its like 15 minutes away for me. The next one is this Friday night. Next week is the swap meet, I missed last years swap meet but this one I plan on going. I think once Summer is officially here Ratchet Friday is every Friday night, unless they added Spring and Fall too, not sure. It gets packed though, some very fast street cars there on Ratchet Friday nights. When I started pulling my intake to do my lifters the other night had a guy who was delivering food to my house for dinner roll up in a supercharged Audi, he was asking questions so I showed him the car, and told him when I am ready we'll go heads up before I put the turbo back on to be fair... but he wants it with the turbo lol.