Thought about those too but not much room on third gens. lol

 

Hot side is all done!!!!

 

Trimmed the fender exit a little. I like the look.

 

Once you have it all fabbed up, if the quality is high enough (if the materials are known to last under the high temperatures without warping easily) I recommend you coat, wrap, and blanket all of that potentially 1500*F plumbing that is so close to your engine and parts up front.

I also suggest you create a mounting bracket for the turbos themselves ( I don't see anything supporting their weight that does not also get hot). You do not want weight bearing down on the plumbing as it heats up potentially to 1500*F+, as it will tend to bend/warp out of shape.

 

Yeah I do plan to make some braces. That's the next thing I am going to tackle.

 

Here is an engine bay shot my stepson took

 

In case you were wondering how close a rad hose could be to downpipe

 

That is definitely a lot closer than mine.

 

Water keeps it from melting but it may be heating it somewhat more than necessary lol. I am going to buy a inch shorter hose to pull it away

 

grab some polished 1.5 inch 304 stainless tubing u bends from summit racing , there like 11 bucks each , i only needed one to make my upper radiator hose .
on the ends i bought some gates hose to use for couplers , be aware that gates stuff is about 26$ a ft but it will prolly outlast the car

then u dont have to worry about the upper hose blowing ut on the road or away from home and being able to get a replacement

 

No need. Running like this for couple yrs now. Never had a issue and dont expect any lol

 

I'm getting ready to convert my 84 T/A to a twin turbo set up. What did you use for exhaust manifolds?

 

Search for HP Maximizer forward facing turbo headers. They are on sale now. I wish I waited. Lol

 

No progress to report as of lately. It has been on the back burner for a little while. Only thing I was able to do was neaten up the sheet metal where the battery tray used to be. I am waiting for my intercooler to arrive so I can set that in place and I should be able to get the cold side done once that's in place.

 

Well, I have decided to put off making the cold side. Reason being is something was bothering me when I did a compression test. All cylinders were close to 140 psi except #1 which was at 125 ish. I tore down the engine and pulled out the piston....Rod bearings looked like new. The ring gap was approx. .030 which was way too much. I thought they were set at .024 top and .026 second. Thinking back to when I put this engine together I probably set the ring gap with the ring in the wrong spot. Good news is I have a spare set of rings in my tool box since the day I first put it together. I will be re ringing the engine this week.

 

Alittle extra ring gap never hurt a boosted motor lol

 

It does if you blow the dipstick out or have oil on your spark plugs lol Besides I want this engine to last awhile. Eventually I will build another sbc for it but not now.

 

I got all new rings gapped and installed last night. Much better now. And will probably have less blowby as well.

 

just going to ask cause i didnt see u mention it did u run a hone or ball hone threw the cyl?

if not the new rings will never seal

 

Not true on the rings will never seal though. Gm does rings and pistons all the time and they say "do not hone the cylinders."

But I have a ball hone which was used on mine last night.

 

id like to see a leak down test on one of those

i shouldnt say never it depends on the ring type/material , but it will take a long time to seal up , theres no way in hell i would re-ring something without atleast running a ball hone threw it. unless it was a brand new motor with only break in time or something on it that say a ring got broken during assembly and u caught it right away

 

He's a tech at a dealer, trained on the latest and greatest. We're old farts using old parts.

From a manual:

"The smooth bore finish currently recommended in all Chevrolet engines is largely a result of modern ring manufacturing techniques that virtually do away with lengthy run-in time on new engines to seat the piston rings. All rings are lapped in hardened steel cylinders during manufacture which eliminates the need for a rough bore finish to accomplish ring seating. (italics theirs) Elimination of rough bores one initial build and no rehoning on rebuild results in a sizeable power increase due to decreased engine friction."

If he's using the correct rings, don't hone. If he's using rings that require a hone to break in, then hone.

-- Joe

 

Correct and thankyou

 

You would be surprised

As far as a leak down after the pistons or rings were replaced the leakdown was "zero"

 

learn something new every day

im curious what are these new style rings made out of ?

id imagine if the bore gets out of round they wouldnt work well though

 

Yeah. If the bore was out of round then engine gets replaced

 

I find that hard to believe. New rings of any type in a used bore has perfect seal?

I do understand that the technology is improving/changing, but I had the understanding of just the opposite of what you're describing which is the break in period of this type of ring is one or two heat cycles, BUT their is a break in cycle just the same as the older technology. Hence, my initial response that I find it hard to believe that you're leak down rate is at zero without a break in period.

Can you supply the part number of the ring set? Did you have an oil consumption issue? If yes, then whay was it?

 

I was talking about the GM vehicles that ive worked on that after doing rings there was no leak down and Were Not Supposed to touch the cylinder walls with anything.

 

Now to get back on topic instead of arguing about ring seat and leak down.

Ordered a set of 200 cc Patriot heads already setup for Hyd roller cam and some new mls head gaskets. Maybe ill get that done by the weekend.

 

Picked up the new heads and swapped over the springs from my Trick Flows. And set the header on to see how they fit. They fit well

 

Why did you use the trickflow springs?

Which ones did you use, the 1.25 or the 1.46 ?

(I used to use trickflow heads)

-- Joe

 

I used my Howards 98441 SPRINGS that I put on the Trick flow heads. I put the new springs ,retainers and keepers that came with the new heads onto the trick flow heads.

 

Ahh, cool!. What did you end up with for pressure and such?

-- Joe

 

Installed the springs at 1.750" . 175# seat pressure

Here are the specs...175@1.750" Seat Pressure - 400@1.150" Open Pressure - 375 Rate - 1.050" Coil Bind

 

Installed the Mls head gaskets ,installed the new heads and head bolts. Tomorrow I will finish up the top end and hopefully get the intake back on. I also need to re finish my valve covers and have two 12an fittings welded on them. I'll post pictures up tomorrow.

 

Well. I decided to tinker a little bit more and now have the driver side pushrods and rocker arms all set. But I forgot to take a dang picture of it.

 

Some more progress today. Made more headway than I expected.

 

This weekend I will be getting some fittings welded onto my valve covers by a friend of mine so I will ask him if he can relocate and weld the outlet on my intercooler.
If so I should be in luck and not have an issue running the intercooler. The wheels were turning in my head today and I think this will work.

 

I chopped and relocated the outlet on the intercooler. Taking it tomorrow to a local friends house to get welded and to have a plate welded where the outlet used to be. Also getter some fittings welded on to the tall aluminum valve covers for my catch cans.

 

Finally installed the intercooler. Looks like I'll be using hood pins to keep the hood closed. Valve covers are all set to even though I may have to repaint one of them (didn't come out perfect).

 

Not much to report lately. Only thing I have gotten done is the catch canisters hooked up, some cold side tubing ordered and some silicone pipe unions ordered.

 

Managed to get the tubing from the intercooler to the passenger side turbo finished .

 

how was your single turbo setup?

 

It worked well. Only reason I went with twins was because my buddy called me up when he was parting out his 82 Camaro. He ended up selling the car as a roller and I bought the turbo stuff from him.

 

I am going to finish up the piping from the intercooler to the throttle body by this weekend. I have also dropped all the hot side tubing and headers off to be ceramic coated as of yesterday. I should have them back by next weekend hopefully.

 

Slow progress still. Managed to get my pullies and accessories cleaned and painted. I should have the exhaust this week. I hope

 

picture looks way better on my phone

 

Here's an update. Finally picked up the headers and other tubing from the coating place. These headers were a pita because there isn't much clearance to get a few of the header bolts in. I will see how this holds up over the summer.
I am hoping I will not have to change anything g with the headers or tubing.

 

Another

 

Now that came out nice!!

-- Joe