i finished hooking up my 5151 NOS kit and was about to purge the air out of the lines like it says in the instructions. in a nutshell, it said to just arm the switch and push the throttle swith manually and let all the air come out of the line. well i did that and i also found out that my selenoid stuck open . i almost got forstbite on my hand and wasted a $40 bottle of nitrous because i didnt want to let the line go so it could smack my fender again. my question here is, do i send it to holley to be rebuilt(if you can even do that)? or do i just call up summit and order some bigger selenoids anyway. I know the fuel selenoid works. also the nitrous line was clogged originally and i had to clean it out. my guess is that there was some debree in the seleniod

 

They do offer a rebuild kit. A new one is like $60 or so. How old is the solenoid? Is it used? I am the lazy guy that would just buy a new one.

Look at the bright side....all that nitrous didnt get injected into your engine without your knowledge.

Smart move on following the instructions and doing a quick purge.

 

make sure you didnt hook the line on backwards (in hooked to the out) the bottle has enough pressure to unseat the plunger when plumbed to the "output" side and atleast enough pressure to hold it open. Also unless Im mistaken, dont most manufacturers instructions say to purge just the bottle supply line and not through the selonoid? the reason they are supposed to have you do it is to get the junk out from installing the line from the back to the front of the car that could clog the selenoid before you hook it up to the selenoid. junk gets in the line during its installation and they want you to knock it out so it wont get in the selenoid and make it get stuck open. Now there is probably a piece of just a piece of some contamination stuck in the seat of the selenoid. careful disasembly could allow you to remove it and fix the problem. Dont feel bad though I learned this stuff through personal and customer expirience. The 98 out of 100 times I have seen leaking or stuck open selenoids it has been due to contamination. the other two were a worn selenoid seat ( on an overused purge) and a selenoid frozen open (on an overused purge).

 

The number one trash that gets in them is teflon tape. If you have to use something on the threads use a light coat of teflon paste. I would say take the solenoid apart and clean it, you may as well know how to do it as they will need maintanance in the future. Find a savy nitrous user and I'm sure he'll show you the basics of it, very easy when you see it. The best way is like B4Ctom1 says is purge the line unhooked from the solenoid, then hook it up turn off the bottle and by hand work the linkage with key on and system armed and listen for the click from both solenoids. Also note where they click to be sure the throttle is wide open when they click.

 

Remember to not gorilla tighten the fitting it can strip them as well as make curly Q's that can push into and stick in the selenoids. good deal on that teflon paste and remember no sealant is used on the tapered flare fittings (-AN ends) just the NPT ends.