Anyones car die when ALDL is connected?
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From: Buffalo, NY
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 427 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: Moser 12 Bolt / 3.73 TrueTrac
Anyones car die when ALDL is connected?
I connected the ALDL cable. Opened datamaster, set up the com ports and vehicle type. Then I turned the key foward, hit test com, and it said successful and recognized my ecm. I could see my tps voltage...etc
I go to start it, it fires right up, vroooooom, then shuts off in 2 seconds (multiple tries). I unplug everything, same thing. I connected the A and B terminals, only a code 12.
So I then unplugged the battery for 20 min, and it fired and ran fine.!?!?
Then I hooked up the aldl cable again, winaldl was green, giving me sensor data, go to start it, same thing.
I go to start it, it fires right up, vroooooom, then shuts off in 2 seconds (multiple tries). I unplug everything, same thing. I connected the A and B terminals, only a code 12.
So I then unplugged the battery for 20 min, and it fired and ran fine.!?!?
Then I hooked up the aldl cable again, winaldl was green, giving me sensor data, go to start it, same thing.
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Car: 91 Red Sled
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When using the $6E mask and the 10k resistor (some cables do this automatically) you put that ecm into ALDL mode. Stock chips advance the timing by 8 degrees when in this mode so yeah, I can see it shutting down.
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From: Buffalo, NY
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 427 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: Moser 12 Bolt / 3.73 TrueTrac
Originally posted by JPrevost
When using the $6E mask and the 10k resistor (some cables do this automatically) you put that ecm into ALDL mode. Stock chips advance the timing by 8 degrees when in this mode so yeah, I can see it shutting down.
When using the $6E mask and the 10k resistor (some cables do this automatically) you put that ecm into ALDL mode. Stock chips advance the timing by 8 degrees when in this mode so yeah, I can see it shutting down.
Doh, anything I can do? I have never heard of anyone having this problem. Craig Moates said the same thing. But I think your right on jprev. Even when the 10k is not hooked up (but cable is connected) it shows my ecm in aldl mode, this normal?
By the way it shuts off I think your right. After I diconnect and shut off my car, my ecm will stay in that mode (I think, fans run when it starts for 2 seconds) and the car will not run unless I unplug my battery for 20 min.
*Most importantly, doing this and reseting my ecm all the time, can I damage my car/computer?
Last edited by IROCThe5.7L; Jun 17, 2005 at 02:05 AM.
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From: NC
Car: 89 IROC Convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: Auto
My car is apart and I cannot start it now but I want to try the winALDL software. Does anyone know if you have to start the car to see data like the temperature and tps? I made a cable using just the npn transistor, powered from the serial port on my laptop and connected it and I have data coming across in raw mode but nothing under the sensors tab. I did not use the 10k resistor.
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From: Buffalo, NY
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 427 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: Moser 12 Bolt / 3.73 TrueTrac
Originally posted by RBob
The '165 ECMs are known for being flakey. Can you try another one?
RBob.
The '165 ECMs are known for being flakey. Can you try another one?
RBob.

Originally posted by john1221
Does anyone know if you have to start the car to see data like the temperature and tps?
Does anyone know if you have to start the car to see data like the temperature and tps?
Should the ecm go into aldl mode with no 10k resistor connected but the cable hooked up? Even if Jprev is right, something is still wrong, no one else has had this problem.
Last edited by IROCThe5.7L; Jun 17, 2005 at 06:04 PM.
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Car: 89 IROC Convertible
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I have a an 89 tpi camaro with th '165 ecm. I connected the 10k resistor and I finally am seeing data using winALDL. I have not started my car yet as I am finishing up installing a 180 thermostat and FS1 fan switch. Hopefully I can finish in the am and will let you know if the car shuts off after starting with the 10k installed. I have a spare ecm also. I am not sure what chip I have but it looks like its a Hyperchip unless someone just used the hyperchip carrier. Vats is no longer being used.
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Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 427 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: Moser 12 Bolt / 3.73 TrueTrac
Originally posted by john1221
I connected the 10k resistor and I finally am seeing data using winALDL.
I connected the 10k resistor and I finally am seeing data using winALDL.
I do not see the use of datalogging if it makes your ecm act different.
For example:
Originally posted by JPrevost
When using the $6E mask and the 10k resistor (some cables do this automatically) you put that ecm into ALDL mode. Stock chips advance the timing by 8 degrees when in this mode so yeah, I can see it shutting down.
When using the $6E mask and the 10k resistor (some cables do this automatically) you put that ecm into ALDL mode. Stock chips advance the timing by 8 degrees when in this mode so yeah, I can see it shutting down.
The only way a timing adjustment does make sense is: Adjust it using a timing light and hook up a scanner/winaldl and check for knock counts under all driving conditions. If the engine does knock/ping, retard it in 2* increments.
^But that still won't be accurate, if the ecm does advance that much timing when your scanning.
Last edited by IROCThe5.7L; Jun 18, 2005 at 01:02 AM.
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From: Chasing Electrons
Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
Originally posted by IROCThe5.7L
I do not see the use of datalogging if it makes your ecm act different.
I do not see the use of datalogging if it makes your ecm act different.
RBob.
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From: SE AZ
Car: 1990 Corvette, 1985 C-10 1979 Subun
Engine: 350, 406 HSR
Transmission: manual, 200 4r
Strange that the engine would shutdown just because 8 degrees of timing is added due to the 10K resistor?
You can disable the advance also using tunercat and burning another chip. Or, once the ecm is sending data you can remove the 10K resistor and it will still send data but the 8 degrees of advance will be removed so datalogging will be in a 'normal' mode.
You mentioned that the fans run with the cable hooked up? Is the check engine light also on? That would indicate limp home mode activated.
You can disable the advance also using tunercat and burning another chip. Or, once the ecm is sending data you can remove the 10K resistor and it will still send data but the 8 degrees of advance will be removed so datalogging will be in a 'normal' mode.
You mentioned that the fans run with the cable hooked up? Is the check engine light also on? That would indicate limp home mode activated.
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From: Chasing Electrons
Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
Originally posted by 1320 Right Ln.
even so Rbob, should the ecm even go into ALDL mode when datalogging? That's never happened to me as far as i can remember. I have a 730 ecu now, but i don't remember it doing that in my old 89 roc.
even so Rbob, should the ecm even go into ALDL mode when datalogging? That's never happened to me as far as i can remember. I have a 730 ecu now, but i don't remember it doing that in my old 89 roc.
The '730 in the f-body's do not require the 10K to start data logging.
RBob.
i know the resistor needs to be used for 8192 baud scanning, but is it normal for the ecm to go into ALDL mode? I used the same AKM cable in both my 89 roc as well as my 92 Z for datalogging, and i don't remember the roc ever having the ALDL mode flag checked.
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From: Buffalo, NY
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 427 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: Moser 12 Bolt / 3.73 TrueTrac
Originally posted by RBob
Go to location $23 (hex address 23) in the bin and change that location to 0 (is currently $17). Boom, no more added SA when in ALDL mode.
RBob.
Go to location $23 (hex address 23) in the bin and change that location to 0 (is currently $17). Boom, no more added SA when in ALDL mode.
RBob.
I cannot burn chips yet

The '165s in the f-body's need the 10K resistor to start the data logging at 8192. Once the datalogging has started the 10K can be removed.
Or, once the ecm is sending data you can remove the 10K resistor and it will still send data but the 8 degrees of advance will be removed so datalogging will be in a 'normal' mode.
You mentioned that the fans run with the cable hooked up? Is the check engine light also on? That would indicate limp home mode activated.
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From: SE AZ
Car: 1990 Corvette, 1985 C-10 1979 Subun
Engine: 350, 406 HSR
Transmission: manual, 200 4r
I can't say I ever had the exact problem you describe but it seems to me either the prom is bad or the ecm, or something is wrong with the wiring at the aldl plug giving you trouble everytime you mess with the pins hooking up the data logging equipment.
The car only runs for afew seconds/minutes? Can you tell if it is because of fuel or spark? When did this start to happen? Only after you first tried to log data? Or after some other modification?
After the reset of ecm how long will it run? No problems for a day, week of driving?
The car only runs for afew seconds/minutes? Can you tell if it is because of fuel or spark? When did this start to happen? Only after you first tried to log data? Or after some other modification?
After the reset of ecm how long will it run? No problems for a day, week of driving?
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Car: 1988 IROC-Z
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Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: Moser 12 Bolt / 3.73 TrueTrac
Originally posted by Rebuildman
I can't say I ever had the exact problem you describe but it seems to me either the prom is bad or the ecm, or something is wrong with the wiring at the aldl plug giving you trouble everytime you mess with the pins hooking up the data logging equipment.
The car only runs for afew seconds/minutes? Can you tell if it is because of fuel or spark? When did this start to happen? Only after you first tried to log data? Or after some other modification?
After the reset of ecm how long will it run? No problems for a day, week of driving?
I can't say I ever had the exact problem you describe but it seems to me either the prom is bad or the ecm, or something is wrong with the wiring at the aldl plug giving you trouble everytime you mess with the pins hooking up the data logging equipment.
The car only runs for afew seconds/minutes? Can you tell if it is because of fuel or spark? When did this start to happen? Only after you first tried to log data? Or after some other modification?
After the reset of ecm how long will it run? No problems for a day, week of driving?
It runs 2 seconds and completly dies. No spitting or studdering. This only happens when I try to datalog, and after I datalog (no cables connected) until I reset the ecm. After I reset it will run 100% perfect as usual until I try to datalog again. New cables are on the way, hope thats the problem. If not, I quit, before I end up frying my ecm.
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Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 w/TransGo
Axle/Gears: BW 9-bolt w/3.73s
Maybe try a different scan tool, such as TunerPro, and see what happens. When you are in ALDL mode, there could be other things happening.
If your car shuts off exactly in 2 secs, when connected, almost sounds like some kind of anti-theft mode you are in. Sicne you have to reset the ECM to get it going again.
If your car shuts off exactly in 2 secs, when connected, almost sounds like some kind of anti-theft mode you are in. Sicne you have to reset the ECM to get it going again.
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