If you go with headers, you will need to start changing everything else. Cam, intake, etc. Then you will have a high horsepower car that has little low end torque and it needs a 373 or better gear ratio. A complete retune of the prom. Then you may want to replace those pistons and rods because your engine is now revving higher everytime your at WOT. Trust me , making a tpi car a high rpm monster like an ls1 is frustrating not to mention expensive.

 

this discussion makes me want to delete my forum account...

 

Yeah and your Camaro proves that High flowing intakes, heads, aftermarket cams, and longtubes dont make any power at all. you must be one of those stupid kid that just throws parts at cars

 

Those Vespa's are mad fast, yo.

 

you dont make a car fast by using stock parts dip ****. you dont NEED to change anything with a bolt on car. but guess what, when you start USING PARTS THAT WORK TOGETHER, you get better results. So if you install parts that move your power band higher, you will need a numerically higher gear ratio to take advantage of it. Long tubes, aftermarket runners, 1.6 rockers, and 3.73 gears will run faster than stock no matter how you look at it.

 

Seriously, I for one would need a little more information though lol. What was your sixty foot? What was your 1/8, followed by your 1/4, and what was your trap for both so I can see how much was gained on the top end? How much boost? Stock heads? Stock TPI setup? Stock Converter? Gears? What size paxton? Who tuned the ECM? Saying your Iroc was at best a high 12 second car isn't really fair without knowing these little details....

 

LMAO. I have a honda that would whip the **** out of most thirdgens on the road and still get 40 mpg.

 

I see 40 miles to the tank if I baby it... lol

 

It doesn't take much today. Many stock cars are faster than most third gens today

 

NOTHING CAN BEAT THIRDGENS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

OH YEAH! sorry my mistake

 

STOP just stop hahahah oo god man just stop.
this before this guy claims a 3rd gen can beat a jet car or a firebird car really fly.

 

Fixed

 

I was just kidding my honda civic can beat any thirdgen on this site from a roll. It lifts the wheels at 70 mph in 5th gear at 2700 rpm's I got videos to prove it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oHg5S...eature=related

 

Haha I seriously went downstairs and got some snacks and read the last few pages.

 

you really are totally clueless and it is easy to see your talking out of your a**. Its very easy to see that fly89GTA isn't full of BS like you are. Your first post just made me laugh, now its just sad that u think what your saying is true. I'm also pushing 40 so just because your older then fly89GTA doesn't make you know what your talking about obviously.

 

wow big deal you can pop wheelies in third, i can do it in 5th in my dad's l69

 

Really? ....really? Weight? Do you honestly want to talk about weight? I have one of the lightest Third Gen F bodies on this board, and most likely one of the lightest street driven Third Gens in the country. I'm still running iron heads, iron driveshaft, and a completely original steel body. I still stand to take HUNDREDS of more pounds off of my IROC, literally.

So far I have removed the radio head unit & all 4 speakers, the spare tire, the spare jack, the heater core, the air conditioning compressor, the heater & air conditioning blower motor, the whole dash, the console, all of the carpet, the back seats. I've even gone as far as cutting the steel support brackets for the stock dash, to take off another half pound or so. The door panels, the arm rests.

It's all a matter of money until I get UNDER 3,000 pounds. $1,600 for 230cc runner/64cc chamber completely assembled Dart Pro 1 heads will buy me another 50 (+/-) pound weight savings. $400 for fiberglass fenders will buy me another 5 or so pound weight savings. $445 for the fiberglass SS hood will also save me a decent amount of weight over my stock steel hood. I do not know the weight of the hoods though.

$399 each for Corbeau CR1's will buy me a comfortable reclining seat that only weighs 27 pounds. $604 will buy me fiberglass doors that only weigh 5 pounds EACH. What do the stock doors weigh, like 80 pounds? You get the point, another 100+ pound weight savings. $279 will buy me a single piece fiberglass dash that only weighs 4 pounds. I haven't weighed it, but I estimate the stock dash to weigh at least 10 pounds. They're pretty heavy for plastic. An estimated $500-$800 will buy me a custom PST fiberglass driveshaft that will save me AT LEAST another 25 pounds, and that's where it counts. That will free up some of the power that I'm wasting.

Roughly $4,500 and I would have one of the lightest street legal Third Gens in existence.

Considering I've got a couple grand already put away, that's an obtainable goal. Wouldn't it be neat to drive a Camaro up onto a scale, and see that even with a driver, it's just over 3,000 pounds?

Yeah, can't mess with that weight.

 

Oh yeah.. Here you go.







Looks really heavy, doesn't it? I'm going to go take some pictures of the location of where my dash previously was, to let you see how heavy it looks. My camera works horribly in the dark, and the garage light may not be sufficient, so this may have to wait until tomorrow afternoon if they don't turn out good.

 

The pictures I just took came out horribly dark because it is 12:10 A.M. and I only have one light in my garage. Sorry, but you'll get the point of how much I'm willing to do to remove weight from my Camaro.





Hey, look! No heater and A/C blower motor! No heater core! Those two pieces alone were probably close to 15 pounds of dead weight.



Then there's this monster, which feels like it easily weighs 60-70 pounds, maybe more. I'll be very happy when I buy the fiberglass SS hood.



You can just can't take weight off of these things! WTF?! LOL.

 

It does weight around that ballpark. I took my old bent and beat up hood to a local scrap yard with a steering box and the total was 80 pounds even together. The steering box was probably around 15-20 lbs.

I was searching for a hood as well and found a Irocz turbo/daytona hood, fiberglass of course and its a night and day difference in weight.

I would love to do some weight reduction to my Cam but I know most things I would remove I would eventually put back in.

 

Is it really fun to drive that car on the street? I would have done all weight saving stuff that doesn't affect driveability first. Aluminum heads, ministarter, fiberglass hood, seats, fenders, aluminum driveshaft, k member, ect.

 

For the average driver? No. I really don't care about practicality though, as long as it gets the job done. I still have my electric windows, and of course I have the T-tops.

I'm buying a new daily driver soon. Hopefully a 2001-2004 Mustang GT if I can pick one up for the right price, but I may settle for the ugly side scoops and flat hood that the 99-00's had. I'd also prefer the TR-3650 5 speed that the mid '01 to 04 GT's had. (But I'll get back onto what matters, F bodies.) That'll have all the creature comforts, that I may never use, except for the A/C.

I did what I had to do to take a lot of weight off, since I didn't have a lot of cash in 2009 when I started ripping the car apart. It was going to happen anyway, for the sake of weight savings. I should actually be getting my build going around the end of this year. Engine rebuild, paint, the above mentioned fiberglass pieces, heads, all of that fun stuff. I'll be broke every week, but it'll be fun to drive when finished later on in 2011.

 

Ok, read this article and you may learn something and possibly understand your tpi car for the first time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by warrant
How many of you have done it? How does this engine react to bolt ons and such? Just looking for real life experiences.

Hello.
We have tried every bolt on combination you can imagine on the C4's L98 Engine and
The best bolt on modification to get Some Real HP will be a Good set of RPM Cylinder Heads Made in the USA(Cant say the brand name,Sorry). You can add 80 to 100 HP with the Correct Heads Set up to work in the TPI's RPM Range(very important) $2000.00: Heads, Gaskets and Labor. If you can do the labor your self knock off $700.00. Then a Custom Computer Chip will be needed to Increased Injector Pulse and Spark Curve/Timing for Increased Air Flow, $300.00. Now you will have to Spend Some Time with a Die Grinder(This is not hard to do, just take your time) to Port Match the Heads to the Intake, Intake to Runners, Runner to Plenum, Plenum to Throttle body using your new gaskets as a template. Not so much bigger just a smooth air flow all the way down to the new Heads, Up the Fuel Pressure a few pounds and Leave Everything else Stock, A Free Flowing Exhaust and Air intake would be a Bonus but not needed. You will be Very Surprised how much Low End(Big Block) Torque a well set up TPI Motor Will Produce with these Modifications.(440 HP/450 Torque, 355cid) And the best thing is it will Idle like a Stock Motor(no stall converter needed), No Over Heating and your Gas Mileage will Improve if you Drive it Normally!
David Steele
__________________

I've Forgotten More About Corvettes Then Most Will Ever Know!!

Shop Toys:
Red 308 GTSi Ferrari.
76 Corvette Custom Convertible,Blown 634 Motor.
35ft Century Offshore Race Boat. (Avatar)
Gokart that weights 197 pounds full of fuel fuel powered by a Jet Engine making 1350 Pounds of Thrust. Do the math!
Last edited by SportsCarsUnlimited; 01-27-2009 at 11:00 PM.

 

look at this article and again and pay close attention.
Quote:
Originally Posted by warrant
How many of you have done it? How does this engine react to bolt ons and such? Just looking for real life experiences.

Hello.
We have tried every bolt on combination you can imagine on the C4's L98 Engine and
The best bolt on modification to get Some Real HP will be a Good set of RPM Cylinder Heads Made in the USA(Cant say the brand name,Sorry). You can add 80 to 100 HP with the Correct Heads Set up to work in the TPI's RPM Range(very important) $2000.00: Heads, Gaskets and Labor. If you can do the labor your self knock off $700.00. Then a Custom Computer Chip will be needed to Increased Injector Pulse and Spark Curve/Timing for Increased Air Flow, $300.00. Now you will have to Spend Some Time with a Die Grinder(This is not hard to do, just take your time) to Port Match the Heads to the Intake, Intake to Runners, Runner to Plenum, Plenum to Throttle body using your new gaskets as a template. Not so much bigger just a smooth air flow all the way down to the new Heads, Up the Fuel Pressure a few pounds and Leave Everything else Stock, A Free Flowing Exhaust and Air intake would be a Bonus but not needed. You will be Very Surprised how much Low End(Big Block) Torque a well set up TPI Motor Will Produce with these Modifications.(440 HP/450 Torque, 355cid) And the best thing is it will Idle like a Stock Motor(no stall converter needed), No Over Heating and your Gas Mileage will Improve if you Drive it Normally!
David Steele
__________________

I've Forgotten More About Corvettes Then Most Will Ever Know!!

Shop Toys:
Red 308 GTSi Ferrari.
76 Corvette Custom Convertible,Blown 634 Motor.
35ft Century Offshore Race Boat. (Avatar)
Gokart that weights 197 pounds full of fuel fuel powered by a Jet Engine making 1350 Pounds of Thrust. Do the math!
Last edited by SportsCarsUnlimited; 01-27-2009 at 11:00 PM.

 

Here's another picture. This is my room, just to give an idea of how much crap I've taken off just to try to save weight. I'll be replacing the interior panels with 20 gauge aluminum though. Just for the people that aren't familiar with sheet metal, 20 gauge aluminum is only about 8 tenths of a MM thick. Just to make anyone a bit more familiar, there are 25.4 MM's in an inch. So, the stuff is practically weightless. I'm only doing it to give my interior a finished look, since I do have a little bit of class.



I've been kind of worried about how heavy even aluminum will be compared to plastic though. But then again, 2 square feet of the stuff only weighs 89 hundreths of a pound. I may gain 3 or 4 pounds compared to the plastic interior panels, but the look of aluminum is awesome anyway, who cares.

I also took this caterpillar off of my tire, to save some weight.



Always gotta add a joke in here and there. LOL.

 

I am glad you are concerned about weight, but please try and do a little research about chassis's. You are correct about weight helping your car's performance, but there is just a little bit more to it than stripping every creature comfort out of your car.

A totally gutted car does not make it a race car, maybe you are doing it more for looks??

 

Was that a joke? It takes very little to make any TPI engine a high RPM monster, but what matters at that point is the careful selection of the valvetrain used to actually make the power at that particular level, because its one thing to simply spin the engine that high, and its another to do so while throwing down the power to go along with it. A larger throttle body is needed, siamesing and porting the plenum, runners and lower intake is needed, larger injectors are needed, working the stock heads over is all that is needed, but with a stronger set of springs, rockers and pushrods. A custom camshaft is needed, and is only a few dollars more than an off the shelf grind. Stock pistons, rods and crank is absolutely fine. Then comes the tune, in which chips can be burned in one's sleep. If someone considers that expensive, well then they are in the wrong hobby for crying out loud, because all of that is under a grand used, and a little over a grand new. Try telling the turbo Buick guys after they blow up their Stage II engines that we got it rough in terms of all around RPM expense, and they'll laugh out loud.....

 

read this!
Classifieds Rating: (0)

Re: Can hondas REALLY be fast?
look at this article and again and pay close attention.
Quote:
Originally Posted by warrant
How many of you have done it? How does this engine react to bolt ons and such? Just looking for real life experiences.

Hello.
We have tried every bolt on combination you can imagine on the C4's L98 Engine and
The best bolt on modification to get Some Real HP will be a Good set of RPM Cylinder Heads Made in the USA(Cant say the brand name,Sorry). You can add 80 to 100 HP with the Correct Heads Set up to work in the TPI's RPM Range(very important) $2000.00: Heads, Gaskets and Labor. If you can do the labor your self knock off $700.00. Then a Custom Computer Chip will be needed to Increased Injector Pulse and Spark Curve/Timing for Increased Air Flow, $300.00. Now you will have to Spend Some Time with a Die Grinder(This is not hard to do, just take your time) to Port Match the Heads to the Intake, Intake to Runners, Runner to Plenum, Plenum to Throttle body using your new gaskets as a template. Not so much bigger just a smooth air flow all the way down to the new Heads, Up the Fuel Pressure a few pounds and Leave Everything else Stock, A Free Flowing Exhaust and Air intake would be a Bonus but not needed. You will be Very Surprised how much Low End(Big Block) Torque a well set up TPI Motor Will Produce with these Modifications.(440 HP/450 Torque, 355cid) And the best thing is it will Idle like a Stock Motor(no stall converter needed), No Over Heating and your Gas Mileage will Improve if you Drive it Normally!
David Steele

 

I see what you are trying to say , but the most important thing is to NOT change the stock powerband. Keeping your low end torque is what you want. You want it to perform like a big block.

 

First of all, I just received your initial response in my email, and if I ever come across you in person I would love to hear you call me a "homo" to my face, because I will kick the ever loving crap out of you you jack @ss. Second, I don't have to read that ridiculous Corvette L98 article, BECAUSE THEY DIDN'T SIAMESE THE RUNNERS in their test, which makes THE difference in terms of high RPM potential. Reread what I wrote, dumb@ss....

 

That being said, when you SIAMESE the lower intake ports (not porting, but siamesing), your allowing one single intake valve to grab air from BOTH runners, thus RAISING YOUR RPM POTENTIAL. The idea here is to match the increased flow w/the correct cam specs to take advantage of the added cfm....

 

I WILL SAY IT AGAIN. YOU DO NOT WANT HIGH RPM IN A TPI CAR. All that is required is port matching your intake components really. Stock cam is fine. Heads are what you want to change but be careful because you want to choose heads that DO NOT change the STOCK powerband. It is not that hard a concept to grasp guys. Come on! LOL Best of luck

 

I still want to see this monster 11 second Formy with a chute and wheelie bar that can take down gixxer's with the greatest of ease.

Wait, why am I even posting here again, I should be retuning my car so it can run the low 11's it should be running Yay for defying the laws of physics and common sense

 

OK, my point is this. A tpi car does not produce much higher rpm power. OK, so they dont like gears any lower than 323. Meaning a 373 will throw you out of your powerband (usable torque). So, changing things like adding headers, bigger intake, etc. will shift your usable rpm's up higher. Ok, so now you have to change everything else to match. You will need better heads, Bigger intake, TB, headers, better exhaust, bigger camshaft, bigger injectors,342 or better gears and most importantly a retune of your prom. So, with that being said my point is modifying a tpi car is very expensive! Trust me , Mustang owner's have it a lot cheaper than us. I used to own one. They can be made very fast too. My point is that you will run faster by following the advice given , of just changing your heads and mildly porting your your stock tpi intake. Leave everything else the same! You want to take advantage of what you already have.LOL

 

fly 89 GTA, My brother's car was a 91' Formula(400 or so lbs less than your GTA), 1LE performance package. Look that up. Also, 342 stock performance gear, 5 spd, aftermarket clutch, bigger fuel pump, boost prop. afpr, msd, slp headers, full slp exhaust, 1 LE heads, every available tpi bolt on, wide band, vortech supercharger w/10 lbs of boost, 24lb Ford inj (which I am now using on my stock 91), and car is running stock camshaft.

 

can you post videos of this 3rd gear wheelie?

 

I dont have a vid, but I can tell you at 55 mph on the highway and stomping it in third gear the car slighlty lifted the front wheels off of the ground. Off the line it would get a wheelie too. Not sticking up in the air type wheelie!LOL. but it would lift the front tires.

 

Oh dear god has this spun out of control...

Hugely entertaining tho, keep up the great work!

 

wow after all that work that I've done to my car, I should have just started with a blown 305 and be faster...... Yeah ok..

 

 

Right...and I'm the next Pope....

 

After reading the great insight that ninetyone has provided, I feel as I have have no choice but to swap my LS1 for a 305... I could have a 10 second car in minutes.

 

Yeah, you caught me. I'm doing it for looks. Every time I come up to someone who looks to be mechanically inclined, I pop the hood, and say "LOOK, NO HEAT OR AIR CONDITIONING, IT TAKES WEIGHT OFF AND MAKES MY CAMARO GO VROOM, VERY FAST."

..Yeah. Figures, someone with most likely a completely stock 305 is telling ME to study up on the "chassis".

What, would you think you are clever by mentioning subframe connectors, or a roll cage? They will come in time, when I have the money. I'm also really glad that you told me that weight affects my car's performance. I never knew that. How would I have gone through life without that knowledge? You've completely changed the way I think. So, now I can put carpet back in my Camaro? Wooo! I'm already doing that anyway. Carpet is the little bit of weight I will put back into it, bare metal is just too trashy.

I really suggest you stop trolling, and making very general statements on a partciular part of a vehicle, to seem like a smart guy.

 

Guys, I just wanted to give an update. I went to Pep Boys and bought some NOS octane booster. I just clicked off a 10.89 at Atco!!!

I can't believe it, I'm completely stoked right now AND I did it with no chute or wheelie bar...I like to live life on the dangerous side.

I think the octane booster moved my powerband up a bit though, I probably should have clicked off at least 10.60's but I kept pulling the tires 18'' off the ground....

 

Was that with your stock 305? How high can you pull the tires off the ground at highway speed?

I think mentioning Honda brought out the rice and outrageous stories in a few people. This thread has gotten ridiculous. I'm supposed to study up on "chassis's" whatever that extra apostrophe meant, and 305's are pulling wheelies on the highway. LMAO.

Wait.. I know where this crap came from. The wheelie done by Vin Diesel in "Fast and Furious"! Now that people have seen Vin Diesel do imaginary wheelies, they think every muscle car can do it!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OsnPp_Jv2oU

I really can't stop laughing right now.

 

Nope, it's a 350 which is why I can do it, duh! I really need to get the wheelie bar and chute on it since I'm putting down some mad powah yo

...and don't mess with Vin Diesel, he lives his life a 1/4 mile at a time...

 

your gta is heavy. 3600 lb car. the 91 formula weighed 3200 and the 305 came stock with 235 hp w/5spd trans.1 le package. 10 lbs of boost added later on. that is why it is running faster times than you. the reason this bothers you is cause you probably live with your mama and havent gotten any ***** in ages or ever. lol

 

Vin doesn't have anything on me. I live my life one humorous thread at a time.

 

Speak of the devil, just seconds later, another humorous thread.

Yeah, attack him personally to make yourself feel better. Good one! You're on a forum, on the internet. Unless you've gone to any meets, you don't have the slightest clue of who any of these people are.