i have recently done a auto to man swap and went with a t5 i put in a zoom clutch and noticed that the car shakes real bad when i start to let out of first. goint through the gears it does fine until i start to hit like 65 i notice a vibration that goes on and off. when i try to push through it just gets worse. since it was a swap i changed out the torque arm and the mount as well. next i thought it was the u joints and it helped but it still doing it. also before i did the swap everything was running smooth. any help would be greatly appericiated

 

If you put in a high performance clutch, chatter on take-off is normal. I put in a powergrip HD ram clutch and my car chatters somewhat violently if i hold the clutch at the friction point while giving it gas to start rolling; that's normal. A performance clutch grabs much harder than the factory one. For a smooth start, I've learned to get the RPMs at about 1,000 and let off the clutch VERY slowly, to minimize chatter. As far as the vibration at top speeds, I hope nothing is loose in the drivetrain or that you have nothing internal going on within the trans...

 

is the flywheel used? if it is chances are the flywheel has hot spots and this will cause chatter.

as for the vibrations, did you get the right flywheel for your block style? if you did then it might need to be re balanced by using your old flywheel. a good machine shop can do this.

 

How are your u-joints?

 

I just had my original flywheel machined and it came out looking beautiful, brand new. The RAM clutch manual says chatter on takeoff is normal... the more I've broken it in, the less it chatters, tho. Now that it's broken in I have been having some fun

I've also learned how my T5 likes to be driven. If you're getting on it hard, it's simple, gas off, clutch in, shift, clutch out, gas in. But if you're driving nice and easy you need to shift sooner than you'd think compared to driving a manual mazda 4 banger or v6....

 

the flywheel was new from full service all they asked was for the tooth count. could the machine shop match it up to the old one that i had on before, because i swaped a 700r4 to the t5.

 

the u joints are fine they were a little loose but i changed them and takeoff is better but around 70 is when the whole car starts to vibrate and it didnt do that when i had the 700r4 in there

 

ive been driving the t5 for almost 3000 miles and i thought it would go away once i broke in the clutch but at high speeds it still vibrates. do you think that it could be the mounts? when i did the swap i figured that since they werent broken that they would be fine.

 

Could be the input bearing. I got a sweet deal on my Camaro because the input bearing in the transmission was bad and dude didn't realize it. He had replaced the clutch, flywheel and u joints trying to fix it. Mine was doing the same thing as yours it would about rattle your teeth out when letting out the clutch. So about two days into owning it I dropped the tranny out and there was 3/4" of side to side play in the input shaft. It's not to bad to replace if you've got the tools. Gotta remove the bearing retainer, press off the bearing on the input shaft, press it back on and then get a input bearing shim kit so you can set the proper bearing preload. There's a rebuild manual on the t-5 floating around on the net(google it) and it describes the whole procedure for replacing the bearing and how to properly measure for the bearing preload. It's pretty straight forward only special tools you need are a press and a dial indicator with one of those magnetic base deals to measure for the correct thickness shim. Also if that's your problem there's 15(if I remember right) individual roller needle bearings in the transmission end of the input shaft that's a good idea to replace while you've got it apart

 

Here's the link to the rebuild manual for the t-5 http://www.allfordmustangs.com/techa...uildmanual.pdf. I know, I know it's on a Mustank site but all t-5's are the same internally except for being a World Class or Non World Class only differences between T-5's that I know of is how the shifter is mounted on the case and the gear ratio's

 

thanks man i just have to take the time off to get the tranny apart (dual exhaust running right under the trans mount) but i'll deffinatley take a look at that

 

You haven't posted anything indicating the trans. needs rebuilt. Yet.Driveline angles are a very common cause of highway speed vibration. A new poly trans. mount can be part of the problem. Or a lowered car. Some info on this issue is here : http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/tr...ison-pics.html and other threads here.

 

My car is lowered and I've got a Energy Suspension trans and torque arm mount, no problems with vibration. If you go to drop the trans the upper bolt to the bell housing on the pass side is a PITA easiest thing I found was to cut a S shaped wrench in half and then put a piece of pipe on it. I tried every swivel and extension combo known to man and still couldn't get square on the bolt head. If it wasn't for that one bolt I could have it out in an hour.

 

That is some good information rs.

 

hey man if your trans mount was faulty you'd feel your stick raise up 2 to 3 inches on hard acceleration and it'll scare the **** out of you. My cheap replacement mount cracked a few weeks ago and that's what was happening. Replaced it with energy suspension mount and I have lots of vibration over 70mph which is normal for these mounts. But the chatter on takeoff is normal with anything other than a stock clutch. The trans shaking is either you're not shifting right, or the hydraulic mechanism in your clutch linkage needs to be bled because maybe the clutch is slamming down on the flywheel even with the right foot motion? Only other problem would be the input shaft or even worse something internal in the transmission....

 

well when i did the swap i had to get all new parts and they were bled correctly. i dont have any problems with chatter it just vibrates after 50 and gradually gets worse as i accelerate. its almost like it pulsates as i go faster

 

well i bought the transmission off of craigslist . the only thing that i notice with the transmission is that sometimes the car will throw out first gear and also i grind going into reverse unless i go into fourth first then reverse. i think that i might just need to get the trans rebuilt

 

Mine started doing that one day... scared the crap out of me. Thought I was imagining it at first since I have a poly mount already... turns out my trans mount nut had come off...

 

Reverse is not synchronized so that's normal.

First is synchronized so yes you could rebuild it for that. But if going into another gear, then first prevents it from happening, you still don't have a "must rebuild" situation (such as a whining bearing.)

 

The original poster's problem looks to me like he forgot to put a pilot bearing in the crank.

 

I made sure that was one of the first things I got for the swap

 

Alright I thought that it was something that may have been internal

 

You're doing it wrong, you're not supposed to let off the gas ever. T5's are bad about losing reverse I've noticed. As for first, I've found you don't need it if you're starting on a level surface, just give it some gas and ease the clutch out in 2nd, I have 3.08s and I can still get moving fairly quickly in 2nd without lugging the engine too much, I'm thinking 3.73s would eliminate 1st gear entirely.

 

my IROC vibrates/buzzes over 65 mph after the new energy suspension trans mount was put in....

 

when your stick rises up there's no other thought going through your head but WTF Holy Sh*T?!?!?

 

This would work (starting in 2nd) with your engine working 100%... mine hasn't been lol... plus it's way more fun to get the RPMs up near 4000 and feather it and then drop it!!