Well, based off info I read on a few threads here, I decided to install a starter from a 93-96 Corvette into my 1991 Z28.

it didnt go so well. The wiring doesnt reach the lugs on the starter and it looks like I would need to notch the plastic flywheel shield a bit. Either way, it dont work.

Anyone else have this issue? 1991 350 tpi car.

 

Normally have to reroute the wiring and remove it from some factory routing clips. Just a little fudging and they'll be long enough to work.

Shouldn't have to notch the shield at all but even if you do, it's worth it.
I have the starter on 3 of my cars with no issues.

 

So then I shouldnt return this starter and go with an OEM style 305tpi starter?

Id love to use it but I dont want to have to make new wires or anything.

I'll take another crack at it tomorrow after work

 

No, don't return it. The new part has things in a little different spot so you'll have to do some minor mods to make it work.

I really doubt anyone will say, "hey, did you see that guys tq converter cover has been slightly modified and he re routed his starter wires?" as you drive by.. ;-)

 

I just went back to the garage to see what I could do with the wiring. Its not happening....at all. I managed to get the get the wires a little closer but I need a bit more in order to get the terminals to seat right on the lugs and there just isnt anymore left in the wiring, especially the harness that runs up behind the AIR pump and then between the valve cover and intake. There is no way that bundle of wires is getting tweaked to get me another inch.

I need to go to Plan B or maybe C now. This corvette starter isnt going in

 

Lol just extend it or get the fbody lt1 starter. Not sure if its any different than the vettes but it works just fine

 

Im not extending wires. I dont need this starter that bad. I'll just use a 305 starter. Its free. (warranty exchange)

 

Wow. Bummer you gave up.

 

I am not cutting the terminals off and then soldering a longer pigtail on half a dozen wires that are jammed up underneath the car while laying on my back. The wiring on this car cannot be pulled anymore to get the wires to reach. The car is bone stock and the harness that has the majority of the stater wires is just too tight already. I'd have to separate the harness from the loom all the way up to the injectors and then hope I can tug on the wires a bit to get them to move 2". That my friend, is not happening. I've been wrenching on these cars for over 15 years so I know my way around them and this mod just isn't going to happen

 

Theres only a few connections down there but if you dont need a mini starter for weight reduction and space then dont use one

 

I never said to cut terminals. It should not be needed. Does your car have the harness clamp right above the pass motor mount?

 

Yes. The loom itself can move back and forth in that clamp with a slight pressure. Its the actual wiring that wont budge. It goes up the front the of the engine and then travels along the side of the intake. There are over a dozen wires in the loom by the time it gets up to the top of the engine and the wiring is taped in various areas. I would have to remove the loom and cut all the taped areas going all the way back to the firewall just to try and slide another 2" of wiring down to the starter area. I know you know how much crap is attached to the front of this engine, let alone the tranny lines and exhaust.

I have to keep asking myself, do I want to go through the trouble of moving the wiring down just to get a starter in here that may get used 12 times a month?? Or do I just settle for a Duralast starter from Autozone that would be a free warranty exchange.... It would be a slightly smaller starter since it was from a 305TPI car. That starter had no trouble turning over my 383 that had LTs either.

Even the Powermaster starters wouldnt work as a direct swap for me. THe solenoid on those is not in the same location as the stock one. Its like GM made the wiring harness just long enough to reach the mammoth starter that was in this car.

 

I remove the harness from the pass motor mount clamp, and genty move the harness forward a little on the rear of the pass intke and that normally does it.

 

I'll take a peek at what's holding the harness in the back of the intake when I get home from work. Im sure its a big clamp and maybe that is the area that I can massage a bit to get the harness to move. I'll report back here later tonight. If it dont work out then its 305TPI/T5 Duralast starter.

And now I need to decide is this is the best time to buy Dyno Dons header and ypipe package!!!!!!

 

In both cases, the juice is worth the squeeze..

 

I wouldn't suggest that. I've changed out too many of those due to them being so weak knee'd. The corvette starter is way better and would do like TTOP350. If not, I'd still rather extend the wire. In the end it'll be less work than changing the starter again.....and again...and again. (I really do dislike the T5 style starter.)

 

I concur. It's worth whatever it takes to get that heatsoak-prone P.O.S out of there

 

Then it will be my mission tonight to get those wires to wiggle their way a little closer to the starter lugs.

 

 

BOOM!!!


Its in! And it wasnt fun! Harness is still a little tight but thats all I could get out of it. This is a bone stock engine so all the factory crap is still attached which makes it hard to get your hands in there to move things around.

Couple things that needed to happen to get this in.

---remove the wiring harness clamp that was attached to the block above the RH engine mount.

---slide the black power wire about 2" further to the back.

---remove/cut the little tab on the ring terminal on above wire.

---grind/dremal some of the plastic away on the divider wall so the ring terminals could fit.

---grind/dremal a small amount of plastic on the flexplate shield.


Im not 100% sold on this starter right now. Car is on jackstands getting a brake overhaul so I was only able to start it a couple times in the garage before fumes set off the CO detectors in the next room. I feel like I have to hold the key in the start position too long and when I release it, the car wont turn over. I have to crank it a second time for it to fire up. It did that 4 out of 5 starts.

 

Is it a GM/Denso or a parts house unit?

 

parts house unit from Advance Auto parts. Why you ask?? Something wrong?

 

I've never used those so I don't have any experience with their operation. Hope it works well for you.
I do have all GM/denso units. Hit the key and it goes.

 

I could return it and get this one...

 

Or this one which has the lugs in a different spot

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DENSO-OSGR-S...FWLvqB&vxp=mtr

 

You should be ok, don't wana freak you out.
They all have the same lug position. Yours and the 1st one listed have the bolt on 90* adapter on them which I think is used on the vette and helps on these f-cars.

 

I'll take a video of how it starts tomorrow and you can see what I'm talking about. it should be fine too but I dont want to ever have to remove this sucker for a long time. The only way I was even able to remove the old one and install the new one was through the opening at the crossmember where the A arm would normally be bolted too. Its out at the moment for new bushings an balljoints. I also had to losen the ypipe and drop it down about an inch from the manifolds. No big deal there since the car isnt rusty.

I will have no choice but to practically remove the ypipe if I have to replace this down the road.

 

just put it back like it was . why make problems for oneself ??

 

Just to chime in here:

I ran into the same issues when I put my 'Vette starter in my 92 Z28. I could have snapped a pic exactly like yours, it was that close. I ended up removing clips as suggested above and basically re-route the wiring until it fit. Tight fit but worked. Also helped when I got my new Optima battery as the terminals were a bit closer to the wires than the older style Optima it replaced.