looking around the site, you dont see too many guys with coilovers, and i am currently build\ing my setup and once all the pieces are finished, i will post pics also... so please, share what your running

 

Front, rear or both

 

both, anything, lol

 

Sorry the only picture I have is when the were mocking up my back half but it will give you an idea

 

looks beefy, what spring are you using

 

These are strange engineering coil over, can't remember the spring rate, but they came recommended from strange for the car

 

 

 

 

My personal opinion is to stay away from front coil-overs and keep the spring weight on the a-arms and k-member.
If you are going to go with coil-over fronts, do put the plate in below to spread the weight across the tower. I did this even though I have the Koni yellow struts:


I used RideTech on the rear, inverted- very happy w/my choice!
Manufacturer/ Model #/ Range/ Collapsed/ Extended/ Standard Spring Rate/ Spring Height
RideTech/ HQ6110/ 14"/ 11.34"/ 16.5"/ #200/ 12"

#850 front w/weight jacks with 36mm sway bar; and #250 rear on the 12 bolt with a 19mm sway bar. Plates up in the back, as well.

 

Awesome. Great setup. I can't use the spring buckets due tie my control arms being custom made and stretched 3 inches

 

totally agree on the plates by the way

 

My car is wide body. And the suspension width is stretched by 6 inches over all

 

Viking rear coilovers and front struts 850lb front 34mm bar 140-250 progressive rear soon to be 175-350 rear bar 24mm soon to be 19 or 21mm

 

your running 850 fronts?! On a coil over?! How stiff is it.. I bet it's super stif

 

850 front non-coilover and 140-250 rear progressive on coilovers

 

With the 480Le, you could go #275 on back. Do you have an aftermarket rear with that? Lowered the axle-side panhard?

 

I was going to try some 175-350 progressives and reduce the rear bar to a 19 or 21, but I will keep the 275's in mind. I've been working with SlickTrackGod on the setup it works well now trying to fine tune it. it has a Jegs axle side lowering mount down one hole from stock

 

morrow i was gonna follow you oon instagram but now cant find you lol

 

Dean knows his stuff .. Him and I worked together on a few things when I designed the suspension in my third gen .. He's a good friend of mine .. Defiantly listen to what he has to say

 

Morrow_motorsports is my instagram

 

He sure does! I'm not sure where I'd be with my setup without him, probably completely lost. I've learned enough from him now that I am starting to make adjustments on my own.

 

Awesome! What's your setup

 

Morrow, are you going to have any suspension travel withe the coilover mounted directly to the strut plate like that or are the strut plates spaced off the tower?

 

850LB front springs with Viking DA struts and swivel weight jacks, 34mm front bar, global west front control arm bushings,gun-drilled and braced front control arms, 1" ext ball joints, LS1 brakes PWR Stop rotors and pads, strut brace and wonder bar, bump steer adj rod ends, UMI sub-frames stitch welded, Unbalanced Eng torque arm, aluminum rear control arms w/rod ends and roto joints, control arm relocation brackets, Viking DA coil overs w/140-250 progressive springs soon to be 175-350, 24mm rear bar soon to be 21 or 19mm, aluminum panhard bar and Jegs axle side bracket, 4th gen rear. LQ4 swap w/4L80E 3.23 gears. That's about it

 

This setup has massive wheel travel. Keep in mind the entire front suspension was built from scratch.. Everything , coo lovers inside and out. Lower control arms are 3 inches wider on each side, upper chamber plate it built specifically for these Struts only, they use a 7/8 unibal in the top, the coil over length is shorter that what all the others struts are in order to have the strut stroke in the middle of the stroke so it has equal up and down travel setting the valves in side the shock it's perfect level. So over all. The strut is shorter over all . Which also helps keep the spring out of the strut tower enabling much more alignment adjustment room at the camber plate. Idk if I'm making sense though lol if I'm not making sense tell me

 

Sounds like a good stout combo

 

Thanks it runs pretty good , now I just need to catch-up with it
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/imag...es/driving.gif

 

If you ever need advice about anything regarding setup don't hesitate to ask. I was busy earlier when I was explains my front end so I was typing in sperts lol so I'm not sure if I was making sense lol

 

 

Are you planning to hang the ladder bars on shackles?

 

car was set up 25 years ago. with this ford setup. just did the coil over update.and going over everything. upgrading and cleaning. as it set for over 10 years. locked away. they have a cross member they bolt to. that is all part of the subframe now,

better shot...over 10 years of dust from sitting


doors open for the first time in over 10 years....almost like a barn find. every thing is getting updated. it was fun in the 90s.

 

Looks kinda like the nascar trailer arm idea

 

I know this is an old thread, but did anyone have any clearance problems with the coil spring touching the strut hole?

 

No, but i've had them rub on the 'frame' or hump over the k-member. Check for full steering lock to lock. Rubbing on that area would tend to push the spring outward.

 

No problems with clearance beside the frame.
I can turn the wheels lock to lock too.
Just if the spring compresses, it will hit that area.

Talked to Racecraft (have their caster/camber plates and drop spindle) and they said to grind and clearance that area.

Time to get the angle grinder out...

 

How did it work out clearanceing for the springs? I asked about your motor plates on the other thread, along with the K member I plan on putting coilovers on the front. I have the adjuster sleeves for the bottom but for the top I have plates that would go under the strut bearings and the springs sit right on the plates with a nylon washer. What do you have at the top of the spring?

 

The clearancing did the trick.

At the top of the spring?
Thrust bearings and washers

 

Front

Rear

Right Front

This is my take on coil-overs on a 3rd Gen.

 

Huh, you have them in bed with you with a bottle of wine, I think you might need to consider getting some professional help.


LOL, that's your take on a whole new suspension on a 3rd gen...

 

So the only thing I can’t show yet is the stuff I haven’t gotten yet. I’m waiting on some Panhard bar lowering brackets because of how much body drop I have.

These are the things I figured out as I went along

 

Looks like a nice set-up 89! How does the Viking rear coilover set-up mount up in the rear spring pocket? Is there a reinforcement plate or what?

 

Basically the coil over goes into the stock shock location with the two adapter brackets that are black in color. The stock spring pockets are no longer used.

 

Thanks for the Summit pic. So did you weld in the upper mount?

 

I didn’t weld any of the brackets, the instructions didn’t state to do so, plus I hate grinding off powder coated parts to then only just spray paint bomb them lol. But welding them would probably be the best thing for a racing application plus the sanctioning body would more than likely require it. But that’s just speculation, heck some may not even allow you to use parts like these idk. Rules schmools

 

I did the Spohn kit, same style of plate, doesn't require welding

 

Late to the party but here's pics of my fronts. No idea what brand the upper spring seats are but I had to use the stock strut bearings with them as they fit into the bottom of them. I'd like to use my aftermarket C-C plates but to use them I need an upper spring cap that will fit a factory style strut with a 1: shaft. Anyone got a part # of the spring cap? I'd probably have to make a spacer to get the spring below the wheel well so I could get more caster.

 

Tom good looking setup u got there.
How much noticable difference is it from stock.

 

@morrow Don't know if you're still on this much but I'd like to know what upper spring hat and spacer you show on your strut.
I need a spring hat that has a 1" hole for a 2.5"ID diameter spring. Then I could use my UMI caster camber plates. Anyone have a part # or source for them? I can make the spacer if need be.