Ok, so screwing around with the head light switch, I figured I would look into why the check engine light don't work. The only lights that come on are the dome light, no interior lights, no cluster lights, the park brake light works, and turn signals. I have replaced the bulbs, and no go. What do I need to look at next? The fuses I found are good.
Thanks.

 

I picked up a new switch and dimmer module and it still don't work.

 

Maybe check to see if they share a ground wire and see if that ground wire has lost it's contact.

 

I got the lights going. There was a crap alarm in it. Some how when I pulled that out and put in a junk yard dim mod in it they worked. So maybe a combo.

However I still DO NOT have a check engine light with key on. I NEED TO SEE THAT LIGHT. It is bugging me bad.

 

I have found a few wiring diagrams. One I don't know if it is right or not. One shows the check engine light is in the aldl in pin D, going into slot five. And it is spliced off. What is SES LP? What is connector A with a lot 5? Now if I run a wire from the aldl in pin D and to a ground with a bulb connecting the two I should get a light right? If this is the case I could run a single wire to the cluster. But this is assuming that this diagram will work. I dont know if it will or not. Or maybe some one can steer me in the right direction?

Pictures of the two wiring diagrams I found. The cluster one is right. The check engine light has a black and white striped wire. It is not cut and the connector looks good.

 

BE SURE to follow wiring diagrams that are accurate for your car...........

If you follow the wrong schematic you could REALLY screw something up simply because the wiring was changed and you to tried to "jump" the wrong circuits with power or ground


Have you checked for an ECM ??

Have you replaced the Check Engine Light Bulb yet ??

 

Well that is not very clear. I am hoping some one has a year specific diagram. I can rewire a car from scratch. So I am not afraid to burn some **** up. I do get what you are saying though. I would rather not make an educated guess and would rather know for a fact.
The only other thing close to this I have found is that the data storage chip might be toast. And if I am burning my own proms it should not be too big of a deal.
But at this point in time I have found no breaks in the wiring.

 

Well I have stripped a bunch of stuff down. This is an ecu problem. It has a remain ecu in it. The CEL is ground control and #39 to the CEL is a hot, the ecu turns the cell on and off by the ground. #39 remains a constant hot always with key on. Off when key off.
Next problem, the ecu seems to be for a manual transmission. Would it run a auto?

 

My '89 Firebird was the same way. The check engine light had 12V on it from the fuse box and the circuit was grounded by the engine ECM.

I ended up repurposing that light as an alternator charging indicator with my LS swap because it seems these days that any time somebody fixes anything in a thirdgen that it ends in an LS swap.

 

Ok cool. At lest I know that is what it should be doing. I just don't know if there is any other problems. It is easy when the ecu tells you there is something wrong.
I have thought about an ls swap. Just not sold on it yet. The cost of an ls swap I would be 350 and turbos ahead...

 

Wonder if the M/T ECM has the Torque Converter lock-up circuits ????

 

How do I know if the circuits are there? I don't need to fry the trans.

 

Thinking on this, this could be a reason my car over heats while driving and not while it sits there at idle.