So I found a few threads on engines that won't run. The closest my situation came was the engine died and then a large single backfire went out the tail pipe- this tells me that the ignition stopped and fuel was still going in for a moment. In the case of that similar thread on this board it turned out to be the guys coil. So, I started with the coil and checked it according to the manual. The resistances across the various connectors and spots on the coil checked out. But I'm still suspicious. It looks pretty well used.

Before I go much further I was hoping others might share their experience so I might know what to home in on as opposed to working my way through the entire distributor. I also have a scan tool that I bought recently but I don't know how to use it and I don't know if it really would be helpful in this situation. Do I need to remove the distributor to check the pick up coil and electronics module? Any advice and shared experiences are appreciated!

 

I'm assuming tuned port?

Have you checked for spark from the coil?

And if it has none, step one is to insure the the rotor is spinning.... and still attached to the shaft.

Easy stuff first.

GD

 

From there, on 3 separate occasions (2 TBI, 1 TPI) the failed part causing the sudden no spark for me was the ignition module in the distributor. It's been a few years since I've sourced one so I don't know the availability. Pretty simple to replace.

 

Thank you both. This is helpful. I am finding, for better and worse, that most of the parts/sensors on my car are originals so I expect to eventually go through everything.

Do I need to pull the distributor to change the module?

 

You can change the module with the distributor still installed. Whenever I do this job I always pull the distributor and replace the pickup coil at the same time.

 

Thanks. Is it straightforward to pull the distributor. I am assuming mark the rotor location to the distributor case and mark the case to an engine reference. Remove clamp and lift out?

 

Yes, it's a straightforward job. You don't have to totally remove the clamp, just loosen it enough to slide it back off the distributor. Once the distributor is removed you must remove the roll pin from the gear in order to slide the inner shaft out of the distributor body. You can then remove the pickup coil. Keep in mind that the inner shaft will most likely not just slide free because of oil buildup. Work it back and forth patiently using penetrating oil until it comes free. Resist the urge to beat on it!

 

Got it thanks. I ordered a new AC Delco coil, pickup and module. Probably could all stand to be replaced.

 

The last time it happened to me I went full MSD. It is quite spendy for a dizzy, 6AL, coil and wires. Haven't had the problem since though. (Over 8 years)

 

My coil is a red MSD but it looks like it has been on the car a long time.

 

Hi, just curious never done that. Does the pin just drive out and then later drive back in without any extra work to keep it retained or is it just a tight fit?
Thanks, Henry

 

just a tight fit

 

just a tight fit..........use punch to drive it out and back in.

 

Cool, thanks

 

This is the pin that needs to be removed. Have seen various methods of removing it, a punch and a few light hammer taps will work fine. The gear will slide off and you can then pull the inner shaft from the distributor body.

 

I had the no start no spark issue about 2 years ago now (feels like yesterday). Replaced the Ignition module and it started right up. And yes very simple to replace, I did it in 10 minutes. Just poped the distributor cap off and it should be right under the distributor rotor if i am not mistaken. Mine is a 1989 L98, could be different on the 92 LB9 or L98 but as far as i know the 89-92 are basically the same ignition setups for the TPI.

 

Thanks. Question on the pic. Above the gears that looks like some sort of ring seal. Should that be checked/replaced ?

 

It's the distributor gasket. It has fallen down from the top in the picture. Definitely replace it.

 

Runs like a champ. Replaced the coil, module, and pickup. I think the base timing was advanced since now that I set it 6 BTDC, it runs smoothly but not as strongly. Oh well.

 

Don't worry about where the manual wants the timing to be. Set it to where the engine runs best without detonation. If you run premium and it doesn't detonate and pull timing out then advance it. Let the engine tell you where it wants to run.

GD