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History / OriginalityGot a question about 1982-1992 Camaro or Firebird history? Have a question about original parts, options, RPO codes, when something was available, or how to document your car? Those questions, answers, and much more!
Re: You're gonna pay more for yellow my fine fellow!
That's rough. His yellow at nearly no miles doesn't look as good as yours.
It's something, not sure how much is the yella vs mileage and option combo. T-top, 350, blk interior. Reserve not met kinda seems like someone knows the reserve and stopped just short of it.
Re: You're gonna pay more for yellow my fine fellow!
This is a beautiful car,I have always liked the yellow Iroc's.
Two hours left and $35,600.
I wish I could buy it,it is only an hour up the road from me.
Re: You're gonna pay more for yellow my fine fellow!
awesome car and im sure its worth over 30k but you see this all the time on ebay when the reserve hasnt been met .. i can put a 100,000 mile iroc on ebay and put the reserve at 30k and have my friends bid it to 29k and some people will think that the car actually got bidded on to 29k ..
Re: You're gonna pay more for yellow my fine fellow!
Originally Posted by 88IROCvertZ
TPI emblem should line up with the furthest left perpendicular line of the tail lights..
Don’t know why folks can’t get it right... it’s like when they “accidentally” order the 5.7 badge and put it on, because why not?
most of mine and the ones ive seen are a little more to the right .. the end of the n should line up with the last line of the tailight to the right ..
Re: You're gonna pay more for yellow my fine fellow!
Originally Posted by ray jr
most of mine and the ones ive seen are a little more to the right .. the end of the n should line up with the last line of the tailight to the right ..
When I worked in auto body we always lined up with that line in the taillight because they were like that before they’d get painted.. I also always noticed the IROC badge had more space from the edge than the TPI badge did which I thought was odd.
Here’s a Black IROC with 9k miles and original paint and a Red one with 29k and original paint.. the photo above was my car with original paint and that emblem was the original faded and cracked..
As someone mentioned above, they could vary a little bit 1/4” or so because I don’t think it was an exact science back then..
Re: You're gonna pay more for yellow my fine fellow!
It didn't sell, the owner relisted the car on eBay saying the reserve was almost met, the price was already really high so im wondering if the seller had friends bidding the car up now.
Re: You're gonna pay more for yellow my fine fellow!
Originally Posted by Agent13
I always liked aligning the badge so that it matches the exact amount of space the Z28 emblem on the right side has.
I did it that way on my 87 because I thought it looked better.. I checked my buddy’s IROC that he bought from the original owner (a guy he knew) in 1993 when I had taken my badge off and repainted it and was surprised that his factory original car was a little off.. then I always noticed it.. and TPI emblems in the wrong spot really hurt my brain..
Here is the placement on that super low mile 1LE that went for big bucks a while back.. It’s probably a half inch off on one side from the edge of the contour.. mine was like that too
Re: You're gonna pay more for yellow my fine fellow!
Yeah that doesn’t look off to me.. it looks like it would be lined up like the badge on the other side.. most of the 88-90 that I found are lined up a half inch to the left..
The ones that look really bad to me are the ones that are all the way to the left..
I think the whole “Tuned” should be under that brake light section.. if you get your car painted or remove a badge to freshen it up definitely take pictures and measure if you want it exactly where your car had it.. I gave my painter pictures and measurements of everything
Re: You're gonna pay more for yellow my fine fellow!
Now I gotta go check my cars this weekend, lol! The IROC is original, but the 92 was repainted at some point. Gonna check emblem location on both. Can I bring this back to the first post and throw out the following question(which should maybe start another thread?) Where do we draw line between buying an (in this case) original color car that we may want, and just buying any decent body to make into the car we really want? That's where my personal conflict is... Like I have posted in the classifieds. I really want an original yellow or purple car, but if color is more important than originality, what does it really matter? As far as this car goes tho, way more than I'd ever spend on something I really wanna drive.
Re: You're gonna pay more for yellow my fine fellow!
Originally Posted by zya5point0
Where do we draw line between buying an (in this case) original color car that we may want, and just buying any decent body to make into the car we really want?
Depends on why you want it. If you're after bragging rights and "it's one of none" obscurity, you probably want the real thing. If you just want what you want, then build up the whatever and turn it into what you want.
Re: You're gonna pay more for yellow my fine fellow!
Originally Posted by TTOP350
It was the 80s, not many cars were built to perfecting specs then.
Very very true. Those were “eyed” and placed. No ruler, no template. Most guys used the light line. A replacement worker may have been off a little to the left or a little to the right or if you were rushing and back lining to get out to lunch or end of shift a little early. All while the car was moving and bumping along on the body truck conveyor.
Re: You're gonna pay more for yellow my fine fellow!
There are going to be variations between all production cars. These cars were rolling down the line and the emblems were just slapped on by the line workers.