Got a bit carried away pulling the seal for the pinion on my 10 bolt rear end. I scratched the seal mating surface (pictures below). Its not deep at all and stops just shy of the full width of the mating surface.

Option 1: I'm 100% screwed and the axle housing is trashed
Option 2: The seal doesn't even seal against this surface, it seals against the lip and so I'm fine. Use a bit of "the right stuff" on the new seal and I'll be golden.
Option 3: This is something a machine can fix and then I'll be off to the races.

 

Not a big deal. I always smear a film of RTV sealant around the inside if the housing where the seal goes before driving the seal in, exactly for this reason. Most housings have scratches in them after removing the seal, and the RTV takes care of it. Just don't use much. You don't want to push sealant into the outer bearing when you drive the seal in. If your seal has a flange around the outer edge like the one in the background of your picture then smear the RTV on the seal instead of the housing.

 

Phew, thanks for putting my mind at ease. I figured theres not much PSI there so it should be too hard to get it to seal.

Do you think its worth trying to tooth-pick on some jb weld to build up the scratch or am I over thinking it?

 

If you plan to use synthetic lube, then use this:
https://www.permatex.com/products/ga...-gasket-maker/

 

Alternatively, you can also use loctite 248 (blue, glue stick format) as this will not only seal, but also retain the seal in the housing. Does make it interesting to remove if ever required - basically requiring its destruction. We used this technique in industrial pumps where the seals could blow out under pressure. Works REALLY well to prevent comebacks. Kindof a devious trick if you are the guy that has to remove it later and clean up the housing.

GD

 

I wouldn't try to fill it with epoxy. The RTV sealant will be plenty. If your new seal has the flange around the outer edge then the sealant will build up behind it and make a good seal.