The Oklahoma Thread
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Re: The Oklahoma Thread
i was coming back to moore from edmond and my oil pump went out and bombshelled the bottom end.
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Re: The Oklahoma Thread
DAMN, sorry to hear that. Did it lock up?
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Re: The Oklahoma Thread
no it didnt lock up i think its still rebuildable im trying to decide if i want to mess with it or not.
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Re: The Oklahoma Thread
damn sorry to here that man, I know its costly, but dont give up on it.........the car that is. Tons of small blocks on craigslist right now for cheep.
So what exactly happened.......I mean did it lose all pressure and smoke, overheat, or what??? Or did ya catch it pretty quick?
So what exactly happened.......I mean did it lose all pressure and smoke, overheat, or what??? Or did ya catch it pretty quick?
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Re: The Oklahoma Thread
my oil pressure suddenly dropped off and the bottom end pretty much came apart. i dont think i thew a rod i think i just spun all the bearings. it happened really quick
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Re: The Oklahoma Thread
if your oil pressure suddenly dropped and everything suddenly stopped as your oil pressure dropped, id be more willing to bet your oil pump locked up for one reason or another and you sheared the teeth off your distributor or cam..
its not very likely that a motor will lockup as soon as its oil pressure drops.. ive seen motors run for hundreds of miles without oil before.. another note, you usually only spin bearings if your HIGH up in the RPM range.. a spun bearing makes a "sqeeky belt" kind of noise and usually wont lockup the motor. were you racing it when it went south or were you just cruising..
like i stated before, im willing to bet if you were just cruising and the oil pressure dropped and it sounded like the bottom end came apart, your oil pump locking up caused a chain reaction with your distributor and/or cam teeth.. which in turn SOUNDED like your bottom end was coming apart..
pull your distributor, pull the pan, and let me know what the bottom of the oil pan looks like as well as the distributor gear, and oil pump drive on the bottom side of the distributor gear. while the oil pan is off, pull the oil pump as well.
for all you know your bottom end may still be good as new, you just may need a new oil pump, distributor, cam and maybe a new cam timing set..
-bobby
its not very likely that a motor will lockup as soon as its oil pressure drops.. ive seen motors run for hundreds of miles without oil before.. another note, you usually only spin bearings if your HIGH up in the RPM range.. a spun bearing makes a "sqeeky belt" kind of noise and usually wont lockup the motor. were you racing it when it went south or were you just cruising..
like i stated before, im willing to bet if you were just cruising and the oil pressure dropped and it sounded like the bottom end came apart, your oil pump locking up caused a chain reaction with your distributor and/or cam teeth.. which in turn SOUNDED like your bottom end was coming apart..
pull your distributor, pull the pan, and let me know what the bottom of the oil pan looks like as well as the distributor gear, and oil pump drive on the bottom side of the distributor gear. while the oil pan is off, pull the oil pump as well.
for all you know your bottom end may still be good as new, you just may need a new oil pump, distributor, cam and maybe a new cam timing set..
-bobby
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Re: The Oklahoma Thread
thanx 1quicktpi you just made me feel better about my motor i will tear it apart next weekend and report back on the situation when i lost pressure i was cruising around 75 mph ( rough guess my speedo and tach dont work i still have to fix that) maybe this will give me a good reason to get a billet distributor and a better cam lol
thanx
thanx
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Re: The Oklahoma Thread
no problem man, your welcome. let me know and ill try to help ya figure this thing out.
btw, im Mr. Breeze's little brother and i have an '89 iroc as well.
btw, im Mr. Breeze's little brother and i have an '89 iroc as well.
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Re: The Oklahoma Thread
But yeah, I agree, take that thing apart and get back to us, if it was shut down reletively quick, you may be able to salvage it pretty easily, thats why i was asking how it happened exactly because you may just need a pump and a dizzy......not too bad at all. You would be surprised how long you can run a motor with no oil pressure or no oil at all without it messing up.
Question, did you here any breakage at all or did it overheat, smoke, anything???
When I used to be a tech here at a local shop I cant tell you how many times people would get a big ticket and do all this work on a car and then have to change the oil and go on a test drive and forget to put oil back in it. Or they would double gasket the filter and go on a test drive and all the oil would drain out within the first 100 ft. without them even knowing it.
By the way, there were two roughts we were allowed to take for a test drive.....ones was about a mile and the other was about 3 or 4 miles......both made you go on nw expressway........witch as we all know has long stop lights
So in short.....dont take your car to a shop EVER!!! And dont get ur panny's in a wad about your motor.......It might be okay!
Can still tune that eddy for ya if you get it up and running. Let us know man...
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Re: The Oklahoma Thread
no i didnt get a chance to mess with it. i had a monetary emergency and had to sell it quick so i will get someting else and start over. it suck but what can you do. lifes a beech.
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Re: The Oklahoma Thread
you gona get anpother third gen or go with something different? There is a shitload of good deals on craigslist, Im talking like backhalf nova's and velle's and such for like 6000 and less........of course they are rollers but still....
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Re: The Oklahoma Thread
i think im gonna go with something different. there is one car i have always wanted and i think im gonna try to get one its an 88-92 toyota supra turbo 5 speed. i have wanted one since highschool so i am going for that now. maybe later i will get another 3rd gen and do an ls1 swap or something cool.
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Re: The Oklahoma Thread
I used to drive a supra.....very fun car....it was a five speed too, Ive seen guys put ls1's in those too.......I think they make a kit for it just like the mazda miata kit.
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Re: The Oklahoma Thread
yeah a company based in australia makes a kit. i think im gonna stick with the 7mgte that comes in it and build it for around 400 hp the factory bottom end is good for up to 500 if you use a metal headgasket and arp head studs
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Re: The Oklahoma Thread
damn man that sucks about having to sell the car but you do what you gotta do.. keep us updated on the supra if you get it.. im not a fan of rice but ill respect supra's and 350z's.. those 2 are the only exceptions..
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Re: The Oklahoma Thread
Looking good Chris, I didnt know you were all over third gen helping people out. I just figured I would represent my 3rd gen in the Oklahoma thread
Last edited by KyleWBooker; 08-31-2009 at 09:26 PM.
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Re: The Oklahoma Thread
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Re: The Oklahoma Thread
Ya I know it, I usually just get on here and read all the time but never say anything. If my fuel pump comes in Friday and get that done and my wires for my MAP all cleaned up, ill take some new pictures and post them. I dont have any resent ones under the hood or with my MT's on.
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Re: The Oklahoma Thread
lookin good man, very clean.. did you send those wheels off to get polished or did you do it yourself?? i have and 89 iroc and i want to polish the outside of the spokes but paint in between the spokes black.. here's my ride
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Re: The Oklahoma Thread
Looks good. Those are actually chrome IROC replica wheels. I bought them though Hibdon tires. I have 6 matching wheels right now. I have a full set of street tires and i also have 2 more wheels with MT ET street radials on them.
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Re: The Oklahoma Thread
cool beans.. what did you do to your 700r4??
i have a core that needs rebuild but i was wondering what all you did you yours to make it " yours and your dad's combo"
i have a core that needs rebuild but i was wondering what all you did you yours to make it " yours and your dad's combo"
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Re: The Oklahoma Thread
He owns and runs Bookers Transmission in Enid and I work down there with him when I'm not in Stillwater. It just has the high energy plates in it and it has a transgo shift kit that my dad started off with them he made it how he wanted. Im not sure on all the changes though. We rebuilt it almost 2 years ago right after I bought the car. It also has a 10inch 3000 torque converter with the lock up clutch.
Im running the Dynamic EFI EBL computer on my and Im still tunning on it, so hopefully once I get fuel and timing right, lock up will work like it should
Im running the Dynamic EFI EBL computer on my and Im still tunning on it, so hopefully once I get fuel and timing right, lock up will work like it should
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Re: The Oklahoma Thread
yeah i need an aftermarket computer on mine since im planning on some boost.. was thinkin about the FAST xfi system. or even the megasquirt system. dont know yet.
im gonna procharge it before the ECM though and only run about 6psi boost untill i get the ECM.. then its from 8-10 psi.. bwahaha after a while on the boost, i may build a dedicated 383 boosted TPI motor.. SICK!.
hopefully this B&M transkit will hold 6psi boost on this motor.. thinkin about buyin the vortech supercharger kit with the V3 blower.. not the quiet one.
im gonna procharge it before the ECM though and only run about 6psi boost untill i get the ECM.. then its from 8-10 psi.. bwahaha after a while on the boost, i may build a dedicated 383 boosted TPI motor.. SICK!.
hopefully this B&M transkit will hold 6psi boost on this motor.. thinkin about buyin the vortech supercharger kit with the V3 blower.. not the quiet one.
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Re: The Oklahoma Thread
He owns and runs Bookers Transmission in Enid and I work down there with him when I'm not in Stillwater. It just has the high energy plates in it and it has a transgo shift kit that my dad started off with them he made it how he wanted. Im not sure on all the changes though. We rebuilt it almost 2 years ago right after I bought the car. It also has a 10inch 3000 torque converter with the lock up clutch.
Im running the Dynamic EFI EBL computer on my and Im still tunning on it, so hopefully once I get fuel and timing right, lock up will work like it should
Im running the Dynamic EFI EBL computer on my and Im still tunning on it, so hopefully once I get fuel and timing right, lock up will work like it should
How do you like that converter??? Fixin to put a 10 in. b&m 3000 in with the anti balloon plate......its a lock up as well. Should stall pretty close to 3000 with my setup. Plan on adding an external trans cooler for the time being and later an aftermarket good radiater.
Just wondering how ya like it, how are the shifts with that shift kit.......I would imagine shifts would still be kinda weak....
P.S. welcome aboard.
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Re: The Oklahoma Thread
The trans still shifts hard under hard acceleration even with the 3000 stall but under normal driving conditions it has a nice clean shift. I actually need to tighten my TV cable up about 2 clicks and see how it feels. Might be a little stout for street driving. I like the 3000 stall really well. It pulls pretty nice cruising around on the street and so far my best 60' has been a few back to back 1.74's so it gets me out of the hole pretty well also. Good luck with the B&M!
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Re: The Oklahoma Thread
what all is done to the motor??? still a tpi? Ya, I dont care for the b&m but I got a really good deal it so......I need to do a lot of port work on this thing as it runs outa breath around 5800-6000.......but it pulls stupid hard all the way there. You need to post up some pics, your othewr post is not working.
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Re: The Oklahoma Thread
ya I have a FIRST injection TPI on it. I have 185cc Patriot aluminum heads with 64cc doms, flat top pistons and a 280xfi comp cam. Ill try and get some pics up over the weekend
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Re: The Oklahoma Thread
I finally had the time to set up my signature with the list of mods
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Re: The Oklahoma Thread
wow its been forever since i have been on here. i was doing pretty good for awhile not havin my baby anymore. (rip)
but i am starting to want one again really really really bad. not only are third gens in my blood... but there is this high school kid rolling around my small town in a 2010 v6 thinking he is hot **** and every time i see him i wanna crash into him wth my toyota lol. i really wish i had my old car(only faster) to show him whats up.
but then again i know i would be doing the same thing if i was him
i dont know when(gotta pay stuff off) but i will be getting another car soon. and im gonna go big on it. ground up.
susp work,cage, brakes, road race stuff. check out this camaro i found. i like the direction he is going i want his cage too http://www.nelsonracingengines.com/p...es-ttIROC.html
but i am starting to want one again really really really bad. not only are third gens in my blood... but there is this high school kid rolling around my small town in a 2010 v6 thinking he is hot **** and every time i see him i wanna crash into him wth my toyota lol. i really wish i had my old car(only faster) to show him whats up.
but then again i know i would be doing the same thing if i was him
i dont know when(gotta pay stuff off) but i will be getting another car soon. and im gonna go big on it. ground up.
susp work,cage, brakes, road race stuff. check out this camaro i found. i like the direction he is going i want his cage too http://www.nelsonracingengines.com/p...es-ttIROC.html
#434
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Re: The Oklahoma Thread
I really like it, it makes good torque but with my cam and heads 6300 is all I can get out of it. When I had 373's in it i turned it 6500 but im sure i was just loosing power. It definately not a top end hp builder like the HSR but for a street car, it makes it fun stop light to stop light.
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Re: The Oklahoma Thread
Well I figured I would post on here and let you guys know that there is another 3rd gen owner in Oklahoma. Livin in Yukon. I have a 97 T-56 behind an '83 305. Motor has edelbroke 2101 intake, 1406 carb, and some cheap headers. Just swapped my rear end for a disc posi off of a 98 z-28. front Wheels are the stock '83 z-28 wheels and the rear are off of a 94-95. I'm always looking for a good deal so if you guys know of one or have one for me let me know what you got and we can go from there.
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Re: The Oklahoma Thread
all i know is I DARE YOU to put an ls1 in that car.. that would be cool.. im from piedmont so im pretty much right by you..
and 91camaroRS.. DOOO ITTTTT! if you do go caged and back halfed and your lookin for some guys to race with, dont be hesitant to go to www.midweststreetcars.com. awesome site for drag racers to UNITE! lol.
and 91camaroRS.. DOOO ITTTTT! if you do go caged and back halfed and your lookin for some guys to race with, dont be hesitant to go to www.midweststreetcars.com. awesome site for drag racers to UNITE! lol.
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Re: The Oklahoma Thread
Hell, if anyone wants a race period just get ahold of us anytime......we have various 8th miles marked around nw okc that we go run on sat. nights. No betting or anything super serious just ***** out from a dig fun racing, its a blast and we need some third gens to come out and play!!!!
And to kylewbooker......got the stall in this last weekend and all is well, only problem is its getting a little hot and overdrive is a little weak (it is a lockup) I think Im gona go a click or 2 on the detent and see if I can get it to act a little better, but other than that it shifts like a champ, I do not have a trans cooler on it yet, might go to parr and get one here pretty quick, because the trans lines will damn near burn you to the touch.....shifts are still firm and quick and it flashes some where around 22-2300 rpms, witch im sure would be higher if a had a decent set of tires on the rear lmao.......
I would recommend a 28-3000 stall on just about any tpi motor for the shear fact that it puts you just right in the power band and makes comming out of the hole frickin rediculus!!!!!!
P.S. welcome jonny! But not welcome unless we see some pics
And to kylewbooker......got the stall in this last weekend and all is well, only problem is its getting a little hot and overdrive is a little weak (it is a lockup) I think Im gona go a click or 2 on the detent and see if I can get it to act a little better, but other than that it shifts like a champ, I do not have a trans cooler on it yet, might go to parr and get one here pretty quick, because the trans lines will damn near burn you to the touch.....shifts are still firm and quick and it flashes some where around 22-2300 rpms, witch im sure would be higher if a had a decent set of tires on the rear lmao.......
I would recommend a 28-3000 stall on just about any tpi motor for the shear fact that it puts you just right in the power band and makes comming out of the hole frickin rediculus!!!!!!
P.S. welcome jonny! But not welcome unless we see some pics
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Re: The Oklahoma Thread
I think we should get some guys together off the thread and meet in a central location and hang out talk about our cars. Its always fun to see what other people are doing and bounce ideas off each other. The weather is getting nice so we should talk advantage. Let me know what you guys think.
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Re: The Oklahoma Thread
Jaydog143, I bet the trans cooler will solve your heat problem. The 3000 does build a little more heat but it should be alright. Were you running lock up in town? Or just out on the highway?
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Re: The Oklahoma Thread
No, I dont run it overdrive unless im doing 50mph plus.....I run it in 3rd all the time in town because its bad to kick it down from overdrive on full lock ya know. It might have something to do with the heat but the warmer it gets the less it wants to lock up????
And I agree we do need to get together.......got the perfect spot too. Hell, we can meet on 39th for all I care.
And I agree we do need to get together.......got the perfect spot too. Hell, we can meet on 39th for all I care.
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Re: The Oklahoma Thread
I run my car in OD in town but I have lock up on my toggle switch so when im in town i just turn it off all together because mine is only a single plate lock up clutch so its not that strong. After some more tuning I wont need the switch anymore but thats how im getting around it for now. It doesnt build a little more heat not running in lock up but it should be fine running stop light to stop light.
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Car: 83 Z-28
Engine: Current 305. Soon to be LS1
Transmission: Borgwarner T-56 out of 97 Z-28
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi outta '98 Z-28
Re: The Oklahoma Thread
here is some ones I took as I was leaving the house. Car is dirty because I never drive it. I like for it to rest. Drove around for about an hour in it today found out that I am needing a new motor. Either piston rings are toast or valve seals are gone. Good thing I was going to drop a new motor in anyway. I'm still working on getting an LS1 out of my Uncles '02 ws6. well whats left of the car anyway.
Prolly this winter it will be caged when I strip it down and repaint it. as for racing, I'm not to big into the drag scene. I will throw down on a course though.
Prolly this winter it will be caged when I strip it down and repaint it. as for racing, I'm not to big into the drag scene. I will throw down on a course though.
#443
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: nw okc
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Car: 1989 iroc-z
Engine: 5.7 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 borg warner 9-bolt
Re: The Oklahoma Thread
hell yeah we need to meet up. lets set up a time on the weekend and kick it in gear... kyle i need to hook up with you and get info about the dynamic ebl.. im planning on runing a few pounds of boost on the bitch and i dont want the stock computer getting in my way..
that b&m 3k 10" stall is a TIGHT converter.. way tighter than my boss hog 28-32 12" that was in my old truck.. still retains daily driverablilities..
and as for the road course, thats my goal in this car too.. basically, im making this car a corvette killer.. thats all.. no full out drag car.. just a stupid fast street car that handles like a vette.. thats all.
that b&m 3k 10" stall is a TIGHT converter.. way tighter than my boss hog 28-32 12" that was in my old truck.. still retains daily driverablilities..
and as for the road course, thats my goal in this car too.. basically, im making this car a corvette killer.. thats all.. no full out drag car.. just a stupid fast street car that handles like a vette.. thats all.
#444
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Enid/Stillwater Oklahoma
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Car: 1988 IROC Camaro
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4 built by Bookers Transmission
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: The Oklahoma Thread
Ya no doubt. The EBL has provisions for boost and also a nice window switch for NOS. I haven't looked into the boost tables much I just know they are in there.
#445
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: nw okc
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Car: 1989 iroc-z
Engine: 5.7 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 borg warner 9-bolt
Re: The Oklahoma Thread
what did you pay for yours and how did you get it to work? it says on the website that you need a 746 ecm but mine is a 165 out of a MAF car.. idk
#446
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Enid/Stillwater Oklahoma
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Car: 1988 IROC Camaro
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4 built by Bookers Transmission
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: The Oklahoma Thread
I had the same computer, my car use to be MAF but I email the Rbob from Dynamic and he said if i swapped to speed density then the computer would work and he sent me all the diagrams and stuff I need to swap to speed density. You mover several wires in your ECU harness and you use the power and ground wire from your MAF to run your MAP sensor. I just bought the computer and the EBL flash and the serial to USB connector shipped for just under 500. the MAP sensor is like 70 brand new and that all you really need. The swap isnt to bad just follow the instructions that he sends you. I didnt have any problems. Im in the process of getting mine tuned. I took it to the Dewayne is Hennessy to get my base bin close so I just have to make fine tune adjustments from now on. The flashing works great and is fairly simple once you figure out what your doing. Email response from Rbob is good and is willing to help out with any questions or problems. He also posts replies on here, he had his on thread. Ill help you out as much as I can but im still new at this as well, i have only had the car running with the system for 2 weeks.
#447
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: oklahoma
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Car: 02wrx/88 rs
Engine: 2.0L turbo/nothing yet!
Transmission: 4eat/waiting on a t56
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: The Oklahoma Thread
well... making it a back halfed would kinda take from street car? and i agree with tpi kinda a vette killer or just a fun as ....... track car. i ONLY lol want around 550 600 hp but im thinking 7 would be nice too! a high revving 355 pro charged motor
its hard for me to get out but i will try again if we meet. ill show up in my toyota or bike lol
its hard for me to get out but i will try again if we meet. ill show up in my toyota or bike lol
#448
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: nw okc
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Car: 1989 iroc-z
Engine: 5.7 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 borg warner 9-bolt
Re: The Oklahoma Thread
hell yeah.. i deffinately want to do the computer thing.. i need something to get me motivated to swap to speed density anyhow..
#449
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Enid/Stillwater Oklahoma
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Car: 1988 IROC Camaro
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4 built by Bookers Transmission
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: The Oklahoma Thread
Heck ya man, keep me updated. I swapped all the wiring and everything over in one evening and for the MAF I went to Lowes and bought some PVC pipe and panted it black. When I go back to Enid tomorrow I will take some pictures and send them to you of the set up.
#450
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: nw okc
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Car: 1989 iroc-z
Engine: 5.7 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 borg warner 9-bolt
Re: The Oklahoma Thread
when you swapped everything over in one evening, did you just have to have another computer and a MAP and it just ran or what? everything i read about switching to speed density confused to crap out of me, but bobr emailed me back and pretty much made it easy as pie to understand. or did you just run your MAF computer until you got your EBL from dynamic?
if i can do it all in one night and be back on the road with minor tuning then im good to go.. this is my daily driver and i cant afford for it to be down.
if i can do it all in one night and be back on the road with minor tuning then im good to go.. this is my daily driver and i cant afford for it to be down.