Possible generic stat question
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Tucson, Az
Car: 1988 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T-5
Possible generic stat question
ok, whenever i hear the issue of using 160 degree thermostats being brought up, some dude, who's avatar sez he lives in like juneau alaska or some other place where it stays cold through the summer, proclaims "don't do it! your computer will never get to closed loop mode!"
My question is, for those of us that live in the freaking desert, does that really matter?
I mean, it seems like the engine temp will just blow past the crossover temp anyways, and that having a 160 stat will just aid in reducing the upward temperature "momentum"
yeah so tell me if I'm wrong.
or if I'm right
unless you drive your car somewhere the ambient temp never maintains above 100
thanks in advance
My question is, for those of us that live in the freaking desert, does that really matter?
I mean, it seems like the engine temp will just blow past the crossover temp anyways, and that having a 160 stat will just aid in reducing the upward temperature "momentum"
yeah so tell me if I'm wrong.
or if I'm right
unless you drive your car somewhere the ambient temp never maintains above 100
thanks in advance
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From: Avondale, AZ
Car: currently thirdgenless!!!
I have use one for several years. In the summer out here you'll be fine. In the winter if you do a lot of highway driving the engine will stay pretty cool. So much in fact that the heat in your car will only get a little warm and not really hot. But I have never had a problem of going back into open loop.
If your worried about it, change t-stats in October and April. It's like a 20 minute job, tops.
If your worried about it, change t-stats in October and April. It's like a 20 minute job, tops.
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From: Tucson - MdFormula350 = Post uberWhore
Car: Sexy
Engine: Stock
Transmission: Slipping
My car never gets over 197F and I have a 195 degree stat.
The minimum coolant temp to go into closed loop (stock AUJP bin) is 113F. Under 132F it'll pull out timing in certain manifold pressures (mostly part throttle), and will reduce the duty cycle of your EGR. The computer won't command the correct (as GM intended) idle RPM until you hit 175F.
Personally, I think 160 is too low. If your car gets too hot during the summer, fix the problem. A 180 stat would be more realistic IMHO.
The minimum coolant temp to go into closed loop (stock AUJP bin) is 113F. Under 132F it'll pull out timing in certain manifold pressures (mostly part throttle), and will reduce the duty cycle of your EGR. The computer won't command the correct (as GM intended) idle RPM until you hit 175F.
Personally, I think 160 is too low. If your car gets too hot during the summer, fix the problem. A 180 stat would be more realistic IMHO.
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Tucson, Az
Car: 1988 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T-5
Originally posted by Synapsis
My car never gets over 197F and I have a 195 degree stat.
My car never gets over 197F and I have a 195 degree stat.
Forgive me if i sound incredulous, because regardless of it all, I do apreciate everybodies 2 cents.
"egr duty cycle" ?? I don't even think my EGR works
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From: Tucson - MdFormula350 = Post uberWhore
Car: Sexy
Engine: Stock
Transmission: Slipping
Set the fan turnon temp to 199F in the chip and have an aluminum radiator. With the stock radiator it never got over 201F.
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From: Tucson, Az
Car: 1988 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T-5
Cool, I read your website and saw that you have an alum rad, and a specialized water pump (i dunno if specialized can be correct terminology, nonetheless it isn't stock like mine).
By the way, I set up some manual fan switches. So right now everything is good. But last summer, even when I turned them on as soon as I fired up the car, it didn't seem to make a difference. Ultimately
Thanks for your suggestion though
By the way, I set up some manual fan switches. So right now everything is good. But last summer, even when I turned them on as soon as I fired up the car, it didn't seem to make a difference. Ultimately
Thanks for your suggestion though
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From: ready room
Car: NCC-1701-D (docked in AZ)
Engine: impulse drive
Transmission: fusion reactors
Axle/Gears: Rescued from the Borg by my crew
Originally posted by Cpt. Blasto
But last summer, even when I turned them on as soon as I fired up the car, it didn't seem to make a difference. Ultimately
But last summer, even when I turned them on as soon as I fired up the car, it didn't seem to make a difference. Ultimately
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From: Mesa, AZ
Car: A Camaro
Engine: Weak
Transmission: Weaker
I had a 160 in my car even back in Wisconsin and it got into closed loop, just took a while, out here I've never had a problem with it staying in open either.
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From: Tempe, Arizona
Car: 96 Silverado/99 Suburban
Engine: 700 cubic inches of 'Muican Awesome
Transmission: 4L80/4L60
Axle/Gears: Chunky/Clunky
Got a 160 stat in my car, works great, car gets to operating temp REALLY quick, never even comes close to overheating (at least, now that I've replaced 80% of my cooling system).
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From: ready room
Car: NCC-1701-D (docked in AZ)
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Originally posted by 90RS305
Got a 160 stat in my car, works great, car gets to operating temp REALLY quick, never even comes close to overheating (at least, now that I've replaced 80% of my cooling system).
Got a 160 stat in my car, works great, car gets to operating temp REALLY quick, never even comes close to overheating (at least, now that I've replaced 80% of my cooling system).
Member
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From: phoenix,AZ
Car: camaro RS
Engine: whimpy 305 on its way out,350 on the way!!
Transmission: 700R
i tried to bandaid my cooling system with a 160 stat.. like bruce said above worked great after i replaced ALL of my cooling system.. even then my car still would get hot..
Now i am replacing the engine so i think my heads were the problem maybe warped or something.. IT can be so many problems.. just know that... oh yeah never use radiator stop leak
Shawn
Now i am replacing the engine so i think my heads were the problem maybe warped or something.. IT can be so many problems.. just know that... oh yeah never use radiator stop leak
Shawn
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From: Tempe, Arizona
Car: 96 Silverado/99 Suburban
Engine: 700 cubic inches of 'Muican Awesome
Transmission: 4L80/4L60
Axle/Gears: Chunky/Clunky
Originally posted by CaptPicardsZ28
Glad to hear that rad is still working for ya.....
Glad to hear that rad is still working for ya.....
Ohh well, can't wait to be driving my new TBI'd vehicle in a couple weeks!! *cought* 454 *cough*
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From: Tempe, Arizona
Car: 96 Silverado/99 Suburban
Engine: 700 cubic inches of 'Muican Awesome
Transmission: 4L80/4L60
Axle/Gears: Chunky/Clunky
Originally posted by 90_WS6_Formula
I thought it was "slowface"
I thought it was "slowface"
Joined: Jul 2000
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From: Aridzona
Car: `86 SS / `87 SS
Engine: L69 w/ TPI on top / 305 4bbl
Transmission: `95 T56 \ `88 200-4R
Originally posted by Cpt. Blasto
Tell me, how do you prevent your coolant from getting more than 2 degrees over the stat?
Forgive me if i sound incredulous, because regardless of it all, I do apreciate everybodies 2 cents.
"egr duty cycle" ?? I don't even think my EGR works
Tell me, how do you prevent your coolant from getting more than 2 degrees over the stat?
Forgive me if i sound incredulous, because regardless of it all, I do apreciate everybodies 2 cents.
"egr duty cycle" ?? I don't even think my EGR works
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From: NE Phx, AZ
Car: 2007 Infiniti G35 SEDAN
Engine: 306HP 3.5L V6
Transmission: Auto Pilot Baby!!!!
Axle/Gears: Don't care!
I dunno guys... these cars just tend to run hotter than most no matter what you use. I went thru all of the thermostats before deciding that the 195 kept it the coolest.
I think using the 160 on a pretty much stock motor is a crock of
if you really want an opinion.
I think using the 160 on a pretty much stock motor is a crock of
if you really want an opinion. Thread
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