Back to drawing board A (Shaking front end)
Back to drawing board A (Shaking front end)
Ok I know most of you know I have talked about my front end shaking.. I had 2 new tires alignment and every thing else was said it was good.. Here recently this sucker has become worse.. Does the ratio box cause this..? Only thing I see wrong is the cover for the rag joint is torn.. I can't see the rag joint at all but Don has checked that also, seem to be fine.. I don't want to go replacing every thing.. As we know how much that cost.. Gene mentioned to me when he was swapping in my 89 throttle cable, that my Steering column had been replaced.. Can there be any problem there causing this problem?
This is one major problem with my car that needs fixed before anything..
With the car like this I can't even make any events or racing or meetings.. B/C it's to dangerous..
I plan to finish my Mods real soon.. The Vortec heads and headers and all those other mods I bought.. But I must have this fixed before any more power is planted..
And just think this was one of the reasons why I wanted to sell this car.. I should have just kept my Flamed Camaro and sold this one..
So any info on this any help would be awesome..
Thanks
This is one major problem with my car that needs fixed before anything..
With the car like this I can't even make any events or racing or meetings.. B/C it's to dangerous..
I plan to finish my Mods real soon.. The Vortec heads and headers and all those other mods I bought.. But I must have this fixed before any more power is planted..
And just think this was one of the reasons why I wanted to sell this car.. I should have just kept my Flamed Camaro and sold this one..
So any info on this any help would be awesome..
Thanks
Originally posted by VincentZ28
Does it shake while braking? If so, it's your front brake rotors.
Does it shake while braking? If so, it's your front brake rotors.
The front Rotors are New and there the same rotors Nigel is using and they are working good.. So it's got to be something else. Same thing with old rotors..
Originally posted by vsixtoy
Check your strut mount bushings.
Check your strut mount bushings.
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,340
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From: Orange, Calif
Car: '87 Cam RS V6
Engine: Top Secret
Transmission: DYT700R4 custom inerts and conv.
You couild have some torn bushings that are allowing the strutshaft to wobble radiaclly. Once you hit bumps under power and the frequency of the shaking hits in rythem and begins to build- the ol speedwobbles effect maybe. It sound like a combination of things that just sequence together sometimes. Thius is why it comes and goes more than likely its the balljoints also. (but then again I'd have to see it in person to be accurate.
Just giving you something to check that could cause the acceleration wobbles. Check the strutmount bushings by first popping off the dust caps and then with a large screwdriver or such, pry the strutshaft sideways in a few directions inside the housing to check for excessive looseness or even tears in the rubber dounut insert.
Just giving you something to check that could cause the acceleration wobbles. Check the strutmount bushings by first popping off the dust caps and then with a large screwdriver or such, pry the strutshaft sideways in a few directions inside the housing to check for excessive looseness or even tears in the rubber dounut insert.
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Originally posted by Kevin91Z
On my car it was a combination of the rag joint and the pitman arm.
On my car it was a combination of the rag joint and the pitman arm.
It's for sure the front end nothing else
Ok I will go check out those bushing and struts and all.. If anything it's the bushing's not the struts The struts I believe are the Bilstiens and they handle pretty good.. So now I know I'll take a look..
Now Kevin has a point his was shaking with a bad rag joint.. Don moved my wheel and the wheel moved so it's probably not a rag joint but I could have him somehow remove this rubber that's covering it.. We have to find the problem..
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Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 656
Likes: 39
From: So. Cal
Car: '89 GTA, '15 Camaro LS 6sp.
Engine: L98, LFX.
Transmission: 4L60, AY6.
Axle/Gears: 3.27's.
I know you don't want to here this, but maybe you should just rebuild the whole front suspension. That way, you don't have other things that may be contributing to the general problem. You know how it goes. You replace one thing, then another and another before the problem is eventually eliminated.
Have you checked the balljoints yet? Sometimes the holes inside the A-arms elongate allowing the balljoint to slip around inside the A-arm. We had this problem on my uncle's '91 Z28.
Also, have you checked the K-member for any loose bolts? It's a longshot, but you never know. I think I remember reading about several people on this site who were "missing" bolts on their K-members for some reason.
Worn A-arm bushings is another thing that could cause the symptoms you're experiencing too.
Have you checked the balljoints yet? Sometimes the holes inside the A-arms elongate allowing the balljoint to slip around inside the A-arm. We had this problem on my uncle's '91 Z28.
Also, have you checked the K-member for any loose bolts? It's a longshot, but you never know. I think I remember reading about several people on this site who were "missing" bolts on their K-members for some reason.
Worn A-arm bushings is another thing that could cause the symptoms you're experiencing too.
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Car: 1990 G92 IROC Z Miniram
Engine: 388cu 6.4 Liters
Transmission: G-Force T5
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Gears
The only other thing that I could think of is the weights that balance the tires may have flown off. That will make the front end shake at any speeds. Have your tires rebalanced.
Today I checked those mount bushing's "vsixtoy" mentioned.. Every thing seem's to be Normal there.. What I did notice on both strut's those top bolts where not tight to the bushing mount etc.. There was some gap there.. Now the part where the strut goes into the mount it's not real tight.. Is it like that? Does that Bushing wear out that way, Or are we looking for a sign of bearing's inside causing problems..
Mikos_89 has a point.. A full front end rebuild is probably needed.. I was hoping I didn't have to spend that kind of money..
As for checking ball joint's that's out of my field.. To much mechanic's for me.. I have checked out the K-member bolts etc. and every thing seems to be in place and tight..
So for this rebuild I would need to buy the A-arms ball joints and those strut mounts.. And some other things right?
Oh and another thing to mention.. I do have some play in the wheel.. I drive going straight with the wheel a lil turned left..
Vincent.. Yeah I had both tires speed balanced with inner weight's and they should be on... This is a very powerful shake.. More like it wants to rip the front end off.. And your stuck riding this Bull until you slow down..
Well, I don't know where to go from here.. I'll check things out but I don't think there's much I can do with my mechanical experience with front ends.. Which is hardly any..
Thanks you guy's...
Mikos_89 has a point.. A full front end rebuild is probably needed.. I was hoping I didn't have to spend that kind of money..
As for checking ball joint's that's out of my field.. To much mechanic's for me.. I have checked out the K-member bolts etc. and every thing seems to be in place and tight..
So for this rebuild I would need to buy the A-arms ball joints and those strut mounts.. And some other things right?
Oh and another thing to mention.. I do have some play in the wheel.. I drive going straight with the wheel a lil turned left..
Vincent.. Yeah I had both tires speed balanced with inner weight's and they should be on... This is a very powerful shake.. More like it wants to rip the front end off.. And your stuck riding this Bull until you slow down..
Well, I don't know where to go from here.. I'll check things out but I don't think there's much I can do with my mechanical experience with front ends.. Which is hardly any..
Thanks you guy's...
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From: Woodland Hills, CA USA
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Originally posted by BrandenCali
This is a very powerful shake.. More like it wants to rip the front end off.. And your stuck riding this Bull until you slow down..
This is a very powerful shake.. More like it wants to rip the front end off.. And your stuck riding this Bull until you slow down..
Originally posted by BretD 88GTA
This may sound like a silly question, but have you checked the lug nuts for tightness?
This may sound like a silly question, but have you checked the lug nuts for tightness?
Brandon, have you put the car up on stands and checked the front end over for play? Something shaking this bad should have some play somewhere I would think. Certainly if any bushings are worn, you'll find play in them.
Originally posted by Russ-So Cal
Brandon, have you put the car up on stands and checked the front end over for play? Something shaking this bad should have some play somewhere I would think. Certainly if any bushings are worn, you'll find play in them.
Brandon, have you put the car up on stands and checked the front end over for play? Something shaking this bad should have some play somewhere I would think. Certainly if any bushings are worn, you'll find play in them.
The A arm Bushing's seem to be pretty cracky.. The ball joint seem's to look in good shape no cracks.. And it Moves around, I don't know what to look for in a Bad Ball Joints.. I still need to check out the other side.. I could use a Complete Energy Suspension Kit..
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From: Orange, Calif
Car: '87 Cam RS V6
Engine: Top Secret
Transmission: DYT700R4 custom inerts and conv.
I'm wondering if you have a cracked drum inside the tranny thats causing the shake- that will cause car to shake fairly violently.
Originally posted by vsixtoy
I'm wondering if you have a cracked drum inside the tranny thats causing the shake- that will cause car to shake fairly violently.
I'm wondering if you have a cracked drum inside the tranny thats causing the shake- that will cause car to shake fairly violently.
Trans was just replaced.. Did the same thing with Old trans also..
Right now I just about have the driver's A-Arm removed.. The A-arm bushing's look worse than the ball joint. But then I don't know any thing about bad ball joint's..
This might be a sign.. The drivers Tire is worn real weird.. The Falken has that Aqua like tread center.. Well Half the tire is worn a lil and the other half ok. The tire will not balance itself.. it just leans over.. Like the Toe has been off? I'll check out the other side and see what that tires appears to look like.. Ball joint's and A-arm's bushings I will replace both sides.. Probably tie rod's and stuff also.. I still have a feeling this may not be the problem.. But im keeping my finger's crossed..
Keep thinking We'll find this problem somehow.. I don't know how my pocket's and knuckles are going to like it..
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,364
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From: Beaumont, CA
Car: Moving...
Engine: Running...
Transmission: Shifting...
Branden, I had the same problem with the tire wear when I installed the Hotchkis Tie Rod sleves on my IROC. I didn't have any of the shaking but the ride did feel a lot better after a proper alignment, and I stop wearing the tires bald on the outside two inches
Originally posted by BrandenCali
Today I checked those mount bushing's "vsixtoy" mentioned.. Oh and another thing to mention.. I do have some play in the wheel.. I drive going straight with the wheel a lil turned left..
This might be a sign.. The drivers Tire is worn real weird.. The Falken has that Aqua like tread center.. Well Half the tire is worn a lil and the other half ok.
Today I checked those mount bushing's "vsixtoy" mentioned.. Oh and another thing to mention.. I do have some play in the wheel.. I drive going straight with the wheel a lil turned left..
This might be a sign.. The drivers Tire is worn real weird.. The Falken has that Aqua like tread center.. Well Half the tire is worn a lil and the other half ok.
Next the shaking. You have bad tires. As you stated, the tires are worn. Nothing will stop the shaking until get the tires replaced.
Originally posted by bluethunder28
Play in wheel equals two things. Bad rag joint or pitman arm. Have somebody move your steering wheel while you look down at the pitman. If there is any play, the pitman is shot. A buddy of my that works for GM showed me that once when both my co-driver and I thought it was the rag joint. BTW it's his job to shake down new cars/trucks.
Next the shaking. You have bad tires. As you stated, the tires are worn. Nothing will stop the shaking until get the tires replaced.
Play in wheel equals two things. Bad rag joint or pitman arm. Have somebody move your steering wheel while you look down at the pitman. If there is any play, the pitman is shot. A buddy of my that works for GM showed me that once when both my co-driver and I thought it was the rag joint. BTW it's his job to shake down new cars/trucks.
Next the shaking. You have bad tires. As you stated, the tires are worn. Nothing will stop the shaking until get the tires replaced.
Yeah Im going to have to save these tires for the rears.. There not a lot worn.. But there bad enough to be a part of the problem.. In a certain matter..
Randy.. Those Tie Rod sleeves an improvement? When my alignment was done a couple weeks later I went back and it was off already..
Originally posted by BrandenCali
So just do like you said and look at the pitman arm? Don had checked out the Rag joint like I mentioned before b/c Kevin had the same problem the same time mine started about.. We moved the steering wheel and the wheel moved.. So we can check pitman this way.. Right Now I have The Drivers side all torn down...
Yeah Im going to have to save these tires for the rears.. There not a lot worn.. But there bad enough to be a part of the problem.. In a certain matter..
So just do like you said and look at the pitman arm? Don had checked out the Rag joint like I mentioned before b/c Kevin had the same problem the same time mine started about.. We moved the steering wheel and the wheel moved.. So we can check pitman this way.. Right Now I have The Drivers side all torn down...
Yeah Im going to have to save these tires for the rears.. There not a lot worn.. But there bad enough to be a part of the problem.. In a certain matter..
Originally posted by bluethunder28
You just want to move the steering wheel. You don't want the tire to move. If the pitman moves before the tire, it's bad. Even by moving the tires to the rear, they will still make your car shake, you just won't feel it in the front end.
You just want to move the steering wheel. You don't want the tire to move. If the pitman moves before the tire, it's bad. Even by moving the tires to the rear, they will still make your car shake, you just won't feel it in the front end.
Yeah I know the tires Now are not the Best for the car.. But I'll use them at the Track or something.. They should break to normal after a few burn out's..
I need to buy 2 Potenza's that's what I have in the rear now.. There a pretty nice tire.. But there 245's I like the 255's in the rear esp. Having 3:45 gearing..
I think Im going to go ahead and do What Dean mentioned.. I may not rebuild everything if not needed.. But all those tie rod and pitman as mentioned I sure will replace those.. Im going to have Don look at the Strut Mount' things.. I rather buy 2 new struts b/c I found out the Bilstiens are only in the Rear.. isn't that something.. I bought the car in real good shape So the struts never been replaced, But this is what they call the performance package for the Iroc-Z..?The shock is all Black no lettering or anything..
I am still unsure if all this will fix this problem.. Tires and rebuilding that.. Any thing else every one can think of.. I sure could need it.. Im questionable on the steering column b/c it was replaced.. But my Window does have a chip on top and the Stock Stereo show's it was replaced from a Bone Yard..
Well looks like this car will Not be on the road again untill the Motor swap and final Alignment..
Originally posted by BrandenCali
So if the Tire needs to be on.. More less Im saying.. Is I can't check for that b/c the Spindle and Arm's are off.. Other than the Passenger side Im having trouble b/c the Y is right there.. I need a Boxed in that's kinda long and strong enough to break it loose..
So if the Tire needs to be on.. More less Im saying.. Is I can't check for that b/c the Spindle and Arm's are off.. Other than the Passenger side Im having trouble b/c the Y is right there.. I need a Boxed in that's kinda long and strong enough to break it loose..
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From: Woodland Hills, CA USA
Car: Yes...
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Transmission: See "Engine"...
Originally posted by bluethunder28
Okay I'll made this as simple as I can. It dosen't matter if the tires or spindle is on. If the pitman moves before any other suspension does, it's bad. You can look down from the engine or from under the car.
Okay I'll made this as simple as I can. It dosen't matter if the tires or spindle is on. If the pitman moves before any other suspension does, it's bad. You can look down from the engine or from under the car.
Don't you mean the idler arm? The pitman arm is a zero wear item. It's just a piece of steel and it has nothing that needs to be greased. It's similar to the spindles. The wear item bolts to the pitman arm.
Originally posted by BretD 88GTA
Glenn,
Don't you mean the idler arm? The pitman arm is a zero wear item. It's just a piece of steel and it has nothing that needs to be greased. It's similar to the spindles. The wear item bolts to the pitman arm.
Glenn,
Don't you mean the idler arm? The pitman arm is a zero wear item. It's just a piece of steel and it has nothing that needs to be greased. It's similar to the spindles. The wear item bolts to the pitman arm.
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From: Orange, Calif
Car: '87 Cam RS V6
Engine: Top Secret
Transmission: DYT700R4 custom inerts and conv.
Originally posted by bluethunder28
No. The Pitman can wear. I was surprised when my friend showed my that. He had me just move the wheel while he looked at the rag joint. He then told me to at the Pitman while he turned the wheel. It moved about 3/8 of an inch before anything else moved. I replaced the Pitman and the play disappeared. The idler is another wear item. I replaced mine about two years before I replaced my Pitman. Used Moog parts.
No. The Pitman can wear. I was surprised when my friend showed my that. He had me just move the wheel while he looked at the rag joint. He then told me to at the Pitman while he turned the wheel. It moved about 3/8 of an inch before anything else moved. I replaced the Pitman and the play disappeared. The idler is another wear item. I replaced mine about two years before I replaced my Pitman. Used Moog parts.
Only problem is, this won't cure shaking of the car- it only removes any play in the steering response.
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From: Woodland Hills, CA USA
Car: Yes...
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Originally posted by vsixtoy
I second everthing Glenn said here- Including Moog parts.
I second everthing Glenn said here- Including Moog parts.
The PC parts are made by Dana Corp. so they should be good, but the sounds emanating from the front suspension don't seem to support that.
Thanks every one on all the help.. What I will do is take every one's advice and replace all these parts that Wear and show sign of the problems the car has..
82-92 Front End Rebuild Kit - COMPLETE
Price: $249.00
Chevrolet/Pontiac: 1982-92 Camaro/Firebird, COMPLETE REBUILD KIT
Details:
Kit includes:
2 - Outer Tie Rods
2 - Inner Tie Rods
2 - Tie Rod Sleeves
1 - Center Link
1 - Idler Arm
2 Lower Ball Joints
* fits both Camaro or Firebird
This kit I found at F-bodyMotorsport's
http://www.fbodymotorsports.com/inc/...l?v=1&pid=7406
But does not include a pitman correct?
I understand most of you like Moog.. What Im looking for is a kit that work's where I can buy some certain brand part's I wanted..
This kit gives me everything needed other than that pitman.. And also A-arm bushing's Which I was going to get Energy Suspension.. Or Im wondering about Global West's
And VBP Vette Products Inc, has a good price from what I have seen on the Bilstein struts shocks..
Is there a Kit where I can get every thing? In Moog? The Pitman also?
82-92 Front End Rebuild Kit - COMPLETE
Price: $249.00
Chevrolet/Pontiac: 1982-92 Camaro/Firebird, COMPLETE REBUILD KIT
Details:
Kit includes:
2 - Outer Tie Rods
2 - Inner Tie Rods
2 - Tie Rod Sleeves
1 - Center Link
1 - Idler Arm
2 Lower Ball Joints
* fits both Camaro or Firebird
This kit I found at F-bodyMotorsport's
http://www.fbodymotorsports.com/inc/...l?v=1&pid=7406
But does not include a pitman correct?
I understand most of you like Moog.. What Im looking for is a kit that work's where I can buy some certain brand part's I wanted..
This kit gives me everything needed other than that pitman.. And also A-arm bushing's Which I was going to get Energy Suspension.. Or Im wondering about Global West's
And VBP Vette Products Inc, has a good price from what I have seen on the Bilstein struts shocks..
Is there a Kit where I can get every thing? In Moog? The Pitman also?
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Posts: 2,842
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From: Woodland Hills, CA USA
Car: Yes...
Engine: Last time I checked...
Transmission: See "Engine"...
The pitman arm is kinda hard to come by. Since its not that common for them to wear out most places don't carry them.
I doubt you'll need a pitman arm. The center link, idler arm and tie rod ends are far more critical.
I doubt you'll need a pitman arm. The center link, idler arm and tie rod ends are far more critical.
Originally posted by BretD 88GTA
The pitman arm is kinda hard to come by. Since its not that common for them to wear out most places don't carry them.
I doubt you'll need a pitman arm. The center link, idler arm and tie rod ends are far more critical.
The pitman arm is kinda hard to come by. Since its not that common for them to wear out most places don't carry them.
I doubt you'll need a pitman arm. The center link, idler arm and tie rod ends are far more critical.
I was able to replace those bad ball joints.. What a big ordeal that was.. How ever it did help the front end out alot.. And I have had no alignment done since I plan on replacing a few of those other things soon as Im able.. But so far the shake still is there.. The ball joints helped keep control and it shakes not as bad..
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