need a mini starter for my 91, mainly for clearence does anyone have one for sale, lmk thanks

 

The Lt1 starter from the 1993-1995 or 96 Camaro or Firebird is a gear reduction that will fit lb9's and l98's. Check at your local auto parts store and see if it is small enough for what you need. It will be quite a bit less expensive than the after market gear reduction starters.

 

i believe im getting one from so cal performance a shop on ebay i found, they have a mini starter for 90 bucks, new with lifetime warranty i've contacted them and they seem ok. and with lt1 starters there reman, so i would be at the same place as now, my current starter has a lifetime warranty but even with that the pain to take it on and off isnt worth it.

!!!second problem i suspect starter but my car has no pwer at all, electric nor cranking. battery is fully charged yet no power. i suspect started, but i've had the power return twice now and as soon as i turn the key power goes away, any suggestions help is gladly apreciated thanks

 

When you turn the key to the "start" position, it interrupts power to any accessory on the car that is not needed to start it, therefore the power to windows, radio, etc is interrupted until you release the key to quit cranking. If you have good starter, but it isn't cranking from the key switch, you may have bad connections in the cranking circuit. First check for power at the starter solenoid by having someone else crank the engine with you testing the voltage to the starter solenoid. You should get voltage, but it might not be a full 12 or even 10 volts. If the voltage is below 6 volts, you may have a bad key switch. If you have 8 or 9 volts, there is a "fix" for the problem. The power for the starter circuit goes through a bunch of connections getting from the battery to the starter. Any dirt, corrosion, or loose connections anywhere in the path will cause a voltage drop. Because of the amount of force required to overcome the return spring in the solenoid, you need full battery voltage to pull the solenoid in to crank the engine. On the other hand, a small relay which has a light return spring only needs about 8-9 volts to pull in.

There is a trick you can try which may solve your problem completely if the problem is only a voltage drop between the battery and the starter. Get a relay like a small Bosche relay. The big silver relay like Ford uses for a solenoid on older models will also work, but it is overkill. You need something that will handle at least 30 amps through the contacts, and you need to be able have connections to the relay coil, ground, a "common" contact, and a "normally open" contact.

Mount the relay on the inner fender well near the starter, or on the block near the starter. Even the top of the fender well is close enough, if you extend the factory wire going to the starter solenoid. Install a #10 ga wire directly from the battery to the common (C) contact on the relay with an inline fuse 20-30 amps installed on the wire. Run a second #10 ga wire from the normally open (N.O.) contact to the solenoid terminal on your starter. Take the wire that was originally hooked up to the solenoid (wire off the key switch) and run that to one side of the relay coil. Run a wire to ground from the other side of the relay coil. Now when you turn the key to start, the switch only has to energize a relay, which then gives full battery voltage directly to the starter solenoid. If you have an automatic tranny AND a power hatch release, there is a small glitch. The power hatch release gets its ground through the starter circuit, so when you hit the hatch release, it will briefly energize the starter. Since the hatch release requires the trans to be in park to operate, it isn't a big deal unless you try to release the hatch with the engine running. If you want to eliminate the starter energizing when you use the hatch release button, there are 2 identical 2 wire plugs under your console with another 2 wire plug plugged into one of them. The two plugs are in all harnesses, and one is for stick shift cars and one for automatics. If you switch plugs, you have wired your automatic car like a stick shift. Now the parking brake must be set before the hatch will release by the button, but the ground no longer goes through the starter circuit. If you don't have a remote hatch release button, you have no problem.

 

thanks i will try that today if time allows, could a bad ground also cause this. whats funny is that when i turn my key to the on position with outcranking the whole electric system dies out. the battery is fully charged yet i have no lights, nor any other electrical components work. i seem to regain power by some miracolous reason after a while, if i turn the key to the on position, or even like last night cut my lights on the power dies again, as if as soon as i pull current the whole electrical system fails. i will begin by tracing wires and making sure there free of corrosion first then, eliminate problems thanks 4 the help