hi

i'm restoring a 92 rs v8 w/ throttle body and i would like to upgrade the suspension. i'v seen Eibach lowering spring kits avail which drop the car about 1" , any comments on these?

i then noticed a comment (on the site selling the suspension parts) relating to needing an adjustable pan hard rod for lowered cars ("This piece is required for lowered cars to re-center the rear end").
link:

http://www.thunderracing.com/index.c...ategoryid=1071

is this accurate?

thanks
john

 

.... it is necessary if you lower the car, to adjust the rear-end back under the car squarely. Otherwise, the right side could stick out a little from the fenderwell.

 

I am about two weeks away from lowering my car and I need to know if what was said above is true. I was going with the sportline springs with either a 275 or 245 tire on a 17x9 rim. DO I need the adjustable panhard bar? Wha twould happen if I didn't get one with the lowering right away?

 

PF is right, you'll need the adjustable panhard or one tire will stick out. I got one from Spohn and it's an easy install.

 

BTW here is Spohn's panhard bar catalog page:
Spohn Panhards

 

It's not always the case that lowering springs will cause the rear end to be off center. Yes I understand the geometry involved and why it would shift due to lowering. But I recommend to take measurements on both sides from the fender lip to the rim. Install the lowering springs. Then re-check the dimensions. That will tell you IF you need an adjustable PHB (I didn't) and how much it will take to center the rear end. In my case after the installation of the Eibach Pro-Kit springs there was less than 1/16" difference side-to-side. Not enough IMO to justify the added expense of an adjustable PHB. Good luck with the swap. Lon

 

Hey lonsal. I'll have to back up a bit on this one because you're right that if it's not needed don't buy it. You're the first one I've read about that didn't but jbcmyk might fall into that catagory as well so it pays to check first. I went with the 1" lower springs (Hotchkis) and mine was showing a 1/2" difference.

 

If you'd said you need LCA relocation brackets after lowering, no question about it. Yes you do. If traction is a concern at all. The LCA relocation brackets will fix what the lowering caused. Funny how doing one thing can effect another? I'm using a boxed SLP PHB & LCA's and found so little difference as I wrote before that it wasn't justified. I was prepared to invest in one, but it just didn't make sense. For those that don't understand why the adjustable PHB "MAY" be necessary. Draw a right angle triangle with the base "b" representing the axle, the short vertical side "a" on the right representing the height from the axle to the right side PHB mount and the hypotenuse "c" representing the PHB. Now shorten the side "a" (representing the lowering of the body caused by the new springs) and redraw the triangle. The PHB or hypotenuse of the triangle will cause the base "b" to shift to the left or drivers side. You need to shorten the PHB to bring the base (axle) back to its original position. In my case maybe the rear was already shifted to the right, so lowering fixed it? I didn't take initial measurements before the spring swap. Lon

 

A thinking man's explanation to Panhard Bar, excellent work Lon :hail:

As far as LCA relos go, in my case with a 305/TBI/open diff traction is not a concern :sillylol:

 

Do I need to explain that geometry as well? Lon

 

Go for it Lon