panhard bar stuck
panhard bar stuck
my panhard bar snapped. i ordered a new after market one but i cant get the old one out. on one side i got the nut off but the rubber bushing must have fused itself to the bolt. i gave it some serious blows with the BFH ( big f*cking hammer ) but it didnt budge. its kind of close to the gas tank but if it comes down to it i'll heat it up. anybody else ever have this problem? thanx
Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 170
Likes: 1
From: Detroit, MI
Car: 91 Z28/99 WS6/02 WS6
Engine: All 350's :)
Transmission: 700R4 & 2 Tremec T56's
*BTT*
can anyone help - I'm having the exact same problem, and I would like to find a solution that doesn't involve a torch (as I dont have one available). Any good suggestions???
can anyone help - I'm having the exact same problem, and I would like to find a solution that doesn't involve a torch (as I dont have one available). Any good suggestions???
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 285
Likes: 14
From: the sticks of NJ...
Car: 89 Firebird Formula
Engine: 389
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Moser 4.11
Keep spraying it with WD as mentioned previously, try to rurn the bold with a wrench to get the rubber bushing unstuck from the bolt.
Work the panhard bar back and forth as much as possible as well...
Work the panhard bar back and forth as much as possible as well...
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,593
Likes: 3
From: out of my mind; be back in 5 minutes....
Car: 1989 Firebird Formula
Engine: Internal Combustion
Transmission: Completed
Axle/Gears: ones that turn.
There's a steel bushing inside the rubber bushing which has likely seized to the bolt. Unfortunately WD-40 will only make the steel bushing rotate inside the rubber easier. About the only way to get it off is to either grind or cut the head off the bolt then replace with a new bolt.
Pete
Pete
Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 170
Likes: 1
From: Detroit, MI
Car: 91 Z28/99 WS6/02 WS6
Engine: All 350's :)
Transmission: 700R4 & 2 Tremec T56's
I've been hitting the bolt from both ends with PB Blaster and praying
If it doesn't loosen up in the next few days, I'm going to have to pay someone to do it
If it doesn't loosen up in the next few days, I'm going to have to pay someone to do it
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 578
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnati
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: PT88 Turbo DART 406
Transmission: th400
Axle/Gears: 9" ford
YUP air hammer....The steel sleeve and bolts rust and sort of fuse into 1 piece***sorry Im not a chemist so Im not using the proper terminology***..
But with mine I had to use an Air hammer and it EVENTUALLY started to shake and break free...It helps as you use the air hammer to Hit it occasionally with WD 40 or compresseed air to free the RUst and metal as it breaks free...
Luckily GM still Carries those BOLTS.... I used a TON of anti sieze on mine when reassembling with the new bolts...
But with mine I had to use an Air hammer and it EVENTUALLY started to shake and break free...It helps as you use the air hammer to Hit it occasionally with WD 40 or compresseed air to free the RUst and metal as it breaks free...
Luckily GM still Carries those BOLTS.... I used a TON of anti sieze on mine when reassembling with the new bolts...
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 1,507
Likes: 0
From: Elizabeth, Colorado
Car: '94 Corvette
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 4L60E
Had the same problem with my torque arm bolts. I was taking out the rear end, and had to pull the whole damn thing out as one piece. I then had to literaly lay on it with my impact wrench for 45 minutes - I'm not kidding you, I pissed off the neighbors that day
...
BTW: I have a local hardware store that carries nothing but grade 8's in every size, from 1/4 all the way up to 1/2 with that gold rust coating. So I replaced every damn one of those bolts on the rear suspension. They do get pricey on the bigger sizes though.
Ron
...BTW: I have a local hardware store that carries nothing but grade 8's in every size, from 1/4 all the way up to 1/2 with that gold rust coating. So I replaced every damn one of those bolts on the rear suspension. They do get pricey on the bigger sizes though.
Ron
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
From: Pekin, Illinois
Car: 1988 Iroc-Sold
Engine: LB9 305
Transmission: T-5
I dont know if this has been resolved, but the way I got mine out was to grind off the head of the bolt and keep putting washers under the nut and tightening it to draw it out. Even that took awhile. I don't know if it would work on the drivers side, on mine the bolt was reverse of the pass side.
Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 170
Likes: 1
From: Detroit, MI
Car: 91 Z28/99 WS6/02 WS6
Engine: All 350's :)
Transmission: 700R4 & 2 Tremec T56's
Well, the shop doing my alignment had a nice new 1200 lb/ft air gun system installed recently 
It was either going to break it free, or just plain break it, and they got it out - bastids charged me $50 to do it though

It was either going to break it free, or just plain break it, and they got it out - bastids charged me $50 to do it though
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