I could use some help . . .

I am replacing the center link and idler arm on my 1986 firebird. I used a tie rod separating gizmo (not the pickle fork) on the inner tie rods in an effort to save them for reuse (the gizmo nearly killed me, but that's another story). Anyway here are my questions:

1. The inner tie rods ball stud won't stay still when tightening the bolt that connects it to the center link. Is there a way to get it to stay? Or maybe it's just NG? It looks and feels pretty solid, just that the bolt rotates when I put on the nut. I'm thinking it needs to be seated in the center link more, and the conical stud / friction fit will keep it from turning. Is this ok?

2. The idler arm has slotted bolt holes. What's the proper way to align this?

3. What torque specs are for the Idler arm to frame?

4. What torque specs are for the tie rod ends?

5. What torque specs are for the pitman arm to center link bolt?

Sorry about the long list - any help is very much appreciated!

gene

 

if the stud turns replace it, i always tighten front end parts pretty damn tight, never use a torque wrench. you should of marked the idler arm location, not sure how to locate it now other than trial and error, unless you can see where the old was located. make sure every thing clears while turning wheels from side to side and it should be fine.

 

Well that's not what I was hoping to hear - but definitely what I expected to hear. OK, I'll replace those tie rods. There goes another hundred bucks.

thanks for the help

 

First off, make sure you get Moog parts, not the crappy McQuay-Norris ones, a little more money, a LOT more quality!

Second, to make sure the idler arm is correctly positioned, put it all together, including on the frame bolts, but ju-u-ust tight enough where it will hold but you can still move it with a tap of a hammer or wrench.

Make sure the car is supported on the LEVEL!! You can check this by making sure the distances from the frame point under the idler arm and the opposite side are equal! This is very important.

Then, you should notice that the bottom of the center link has flat spots on the bottom, near the ends, those are the reference points. Place a 3' level firmly against them (I used spring clamps, just firm on the link) and adjust the idler arm up or down to make the level bubble center in the frame.

Once it is level, then tighten up the idler arm bolts on the frame, then double-check to make sure it didn't move.

A little trial and error here will save BIG BUCKS on your alignment! this is the way the manual says to do it ( you DO have a manual, right?)

Hope this helps.

Take your time, do it right!

 

Why is this?

 

Yep, I got Moog parts - although the center link box didn't say it, the guy at the parts store made a point of telling me that he only sells Moog and not any of that Taiwan crap.

Manual? I don't need no stinkin' manual!

Just kidding, but no I don't have one. That's why I posted the questions. I could always run to the library and check out Chiltons or Motor. Front end stuff is usually pretty easy, but that slotted idler arm arrangement threw me for a loop.

I don't own a 3' level, but wonder if I attach a small level to a longer 2x4 and strap that to the center link. Seems to me that ought to be ok - or I could just pony up the money and buy a new 3' level!


thanks