do i need anything special to install the complete bushing kit?

or will i be able to get by using normal tools?

 

same as any other bushing kit

 

you see thats just it i never done suspension bushings before,

so are there any special things i need to know? or have?

 

I had to bring the control arms to a machine shop and have them get them out and put the ES ones in. They said those were the hardest bushings they ever had to remove. It was probably because i had the control arms laying outside for a while. Also getting the control arms back in was fun. It was a lot harder to do with the new bushings. But I eventually got them in. It's helpful to use a jack and a peice of wood under the bushing to get it in.

I had them install new ball joints also. Might as well do it now so you dont' have to take everything apart again.The control arms were the hardest part every thing else was fairly simple. You'll need a coil spring compressor also. I rented one for $14 a day, or you can go to autzone and rent it for free. You'll need to get spacers to put in the spring compressor though. About 5 or 6" of them. I just went to sears hardware and got a couple thick nuts. Ebmiller has some pics of redoing the suspension. Search for his name and you'll find a link to them.

 

thanks for the info, so the control arms are the worst part, that doesn't sound so bad, i've used a spring compressor before so thats no big deal. ball joints have already been done.

now the other question, is it worth my time and energy? since the suspension is original with the exception of shocks, i would guess yes.

does it sqeauk at all?

i've heard that the poly stuff is pretty noisy unless its got some type of grease on it

 

I would recommend ordering extra ES grease. This stuff is the best for Poly bushings. The only part of the ploy bushings I wasn't really happy with was the rear LCA's. The set did stiffen up the car considerably but I can tell the rear diff has a harder time flexing. But none the less body roll was considerably redused. The only way to solve the rear diff problem is with a sperical combo or both ends rod ended to allow it to flex better. The only noise that I've noticed from my bushings is when I shut the car off and rock it back and forth from the inside and still you can barly hear it creaking. I've had mine on for about a year now.

 

Redraif's car has all Energy Suspension stuff in the front, and there are no squeaks. Use the supplied lube liberally, and you won't have a problem. It does tighten the car up quite a bit, but we did this at the same time as balljoints, tie rods, larger sway bars, and a better steering box, so how much is jsut the bushings I'm not sure. It feels better than my 4th gens, so that has to say something!

The hardest part, as someone else said, is removing the old bushings. Reinstallation of the a-arms can be a pain, too. Overall though its not a bad job.

 

thanks guys, its on my list of things to do.

 

You could install one of these up front too. TDS 200170 Greasable Front Sway Bar Bushing Kit. We use Guldstrand Motorsports poly-graphite bushings, which are modified to be greasable. Zinc plated brackets so they won't rust, $39.50. E-mail me if you want to order a set. Available for 32mm, 34mm or 36mm sway bars. We also have a version for the 1982 model year F-Body TDS 205170.

Lon Salgren
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