Here is what my print out says.

LF ACTUAL BEFORE

Camber: 0.1 deg 0.6 deg
Caster: 5.2 deg 5.2 deg
Toe: 0.10 " 0.18 " w/wheel centered


RF ACTUAL BEFORE

Camber: 0.0 deg 0.2 deg
Caster: 5.4 deg 5.4 deg
Toe: 0.09 " -0.34 " w/wheel centered

FRONT

Cross Camber: 0.1 deg 0.4 deg
Cross Caster: -0.2 deg -0.2 deg
Total toe: 0.19 deg 0.16 deg



LR

Camber -0.0 deg -0.0 deg
Toe -0.11" -0.12 "

RR

Camber -0.4 deg -0.4 deg
toe 0.14" 0.13 "


REAR

Total toe: 0.03" 0.01"
Thrust angle: -0.25 deg -0.24 deg

These are all the measurements on the page. The camber on the left was maxed out so that is all I could get from it. The tech wouldn't do the caster.


What do you get from this?

 

If you are maxxed out with .1* of POSITIVE camber - there is something wrong...... If you are looking to make this thing turn better you want to get as much NEGATIVE camber as you can get.... If you just want it to handle good on the street and still not eat up tires, a slight negative camber setup should get you what you want - like maybe - .5* or less on each side.... but these figures need to be the same from side to side unless you are tuning for a certain track or something.

Your Caster readings look pretty good but a little less would make it turn in to corners a bit easier

Toe in should be +.1 or so on each side so you are probably OK there, but it is evident that this guy just got the readings within specs and let it go.....

 

How are you trying to set this up? Daily driver, circle track, drag strip?

If you look through the FAQ you'll see a bunch of different settings.

 

sounds like somthing is bent! also if the car is to be used on the street even with the camber and toe set it will still have a slight drift to the right due to the crowning of the road and the caster being the same on both sides (the right side should lead the left slightly)

 

to answer your questions. it may drift a little to the right, if at all. should have a cross caster of -.3 to -.5 meaning left 5.0 and right 5.5 the reason the camber is "maxed" out on the left would be because the springs are worn out. as springs wear, the camber goes more positive. nothing bent. it's real hard to bend a spindle downward. thus increasing camber. more positive.

you won't get any abnormal tire wear out of this. now the tech saying he won't adjust caster. now that's lazy. camber doesn't have to be equal on both sides. with the way you have it now, the car will want to go left (towards the higher camber). which is a good thing. because of the crown of the road. with caster, the car will go towards the lower caster number. in your case, the lower number is on the left. again, a good thing. so, it should go straight.

 

WOW, Worn springs really? I thought springs hardy ever wear out.

Do you reccomend replacing them and this fixing the problem. I thought worn ones would have a tendancy to make a more negative camber?

 

metal fatigues over time. just like valve springs in an engine. with all the cycling they go through (up and down), they wear out. to give a check on them do this. with good springs, stock height, i can ut about 3 fingers between the top of the tire and the fenderwell. with wornout ones, you usually can't get a finger in. or the tires are tucked up inside the fenderwell.

as a car lowers, from spring fatigue, the camber goes more positive. if you get it back on an alignment machine and can look at the screen, push down on one side. you'll see the camber numbers go up for that side.

as far as replacing them. that's up to you. it isn't necessary at this point. but it will ride and handle much better when you do.