Time to redo brakes front and rear. Was working on the rear drums to day, looks like new wheel cylinders are in order as well. Anyway, what is the proper procedure to bleed drums?

Or is bleeding even necessary when replacing wheel cylinders?

Thanks,
Brandon

 

with another person

have someone pump the gas and hold it for you and make sure they can follow instructions like push it, push it slowly and hold, let it go, etc...

then on each of the calipers n whatnot there are little valves, when bleeding them basically have the person push the pedal till air stops coming out, close the valve, have them push the brakes again, open it and make sure no air is coming out, and basically just do that till only fluid comes out.

start from the furthest wheel from the MC and work your way to the closest .... doesn't take that long really

 

I think he meant pump the brake . It helps to put a piece of clear tubing over the bleeder screws, so you can see when you're getting pure, clean fluid out and no air, and put the end in a container so you don't wind up with brake fluid all over the floor. Start at the bleeder furthest from the MC, and work your way closer. You might as well do the front too, if it hasn't been done in a while. Flushing out all the old fluid and repalcing it with new can really make a big difference in braking, as well as make the components last longer (brake fluid is hygroscopic...absorbs water...which leads to spongy brakes and sticking components).
I like the Ford HD fluid, it may be Ford but many agree its the best fluid for a daily driver.

 

LOL, pump the gas...

For a perfect bleed, check out http://www.brakebleeder.com - I messed around with the pedal method day after day trying to get my brakes to work after putting a 3.73/posi/disc axle under the car... the Phoenix Injector bled the rears in one try. Awesome kit. I bought the V12 model, with Smart Pak & red case, but http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-bin/...8&prmenbr=6970 has the V10 for $100. Looks like it's backordered though, might want to call. The V10 is the older model.

Definately worth the price!!!! You can even bleed clutches with it!

 

I have been thinking about building a pressure bleeder for 3rd gens...that is quick, and easy, as long as you have compressed air. Just take a piece of flat steel, drill and tap it to take an air tool fitting, and clamp it firmly to the master cylinder reservoir. Hook up an air hose (not sure how much psi, shouldn't take much), open the first bleeder screw, and in a few seconds all the air and gunk is forced out. Another one of those easy projects that I can't seem to get around to...