what is the safest way to change springs.
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Bayonne, NJ 07002
Car: 87 iroc-z ba boom!
Engine: V8 305 ( dont be fooled) =]
Transmission: TH-700R4 beefed up
what is the safest way to change springs.
hi tech helpers...........i am changing the springs on my 87 iroc-z and i just want to know what procedures i have to go about to do this. what tools and so fourth.....front and back. also is it nessasary when changing struts and shocks to make sure the springs dont fly out. is this true?
thank you guys for any assistance. :hail:
thank you guys for any assistance. :hail:
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Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Panama City Beach,Florida
Car: 1989 Camaro
Engine: 406
Transmission: Pro-built 700R4
The correct way to change springs is to get a spring compression tool and use it. You can get by using a jack under the a-arm but you have to be careful and not let the spring fly out. Pretty much all you need to do this is a jack,ramps or jack stands, an assortment of hand tools and the compression tool if you want to go that route.
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From: Idaho Falls
Car: 82 Trans Am
Engine: LTX
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 strengthed 7.5 inch
Go to the home page, click technical articles, scroll to chassis and click "how to install springs on your thirdgen".
That is the procedure I used when I rebuilt the entire suspension..
Two points to take note on.. be careful when lowering the a-arm with the jack.. make sure no one is in the area where the spring could pop out at them.. unlikely if you lower it slow, but safe thinking.. Second, when installing the front springs again they are sometimes hard to get in the pocket.. I used lowering springs and it was still hard, so the trick was to get a prybar and lever the spring back in the pocket.
Tools used: jack, jackstands, prybar, ratchet, torque wrench, appropriate sockets.
That is the procedure I used when I rebuilt the entire suspension..
Two points to take note on.. be careful when lowering the a-arm with the jack.. make sure no one is in the area where the spring could pop out at them.. unlikely if you lower it slow, but safe thinking.. Second, when installing the front springs again they are sometimes hard to get in the pocket.. I used lowering springs and it was still hard, so the trick was to get a prybar and lever the spring back in the pocket.
Tools used: jack, jackstands, prybar, ratchet, torque wrench, appropriate sockets.
Last edited by J's T/A; Nov 10, 2002 at 10:48 AM.
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Safest way???
Let someone else do it.
No really, rears are easy so I won't talk about them. For the fronts, go to Autozone or Pep Boys and rent a spring compressor for free. Follow a manual, tech article, etc for removal and go to my web page and look at the pics of my suspension rebuild. These will let you know what kind of a job you are looking at. It's in my sig.
HTH...Ed
Let someone else do it.
No really, rears are easy so I won't talk about them. For the fronts, go to Autozone or Pep Boys and rent a spring compressor for free. Follow a manual, tech article, etc for removal and go to my web page and look at the pics of my suspension rebuild. These will let you know what kind of a job you are looking at. It's in my sig.
HTH...Ed
Last edited by ebmiller88; Nov 11, 2002 at 09:31 AM.
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From: orlando, fl usa
Car: 1986 pontiac TA
Engine: 360 HSR
Transmission: 700r4 3300 yank converter
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt
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Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2001
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From: orlando, fl usa
Car: 1986 pontiac TA
Engine: 360 HSR
Transmission: 700r4 3300 yank converter
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt
just don't be in the way when you lift the car to release the spring pressure. you shouldn't be if your jack is in from the front. thanks for the compliment.
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From: Chasing Electrons
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The correct method of R&R'ing front springs is to drop the inside of the lower A arm. This is done by removing the two pivot bolts. The ball joint and strut remain in place.
After spending hours with spring compressors, chains, jacks and what not I finally gave in and read the fine manual (RTFM). Son-of-a-gun, look at this, GM method is to unbolt the A arm at the pivot points.
When removing the spring chain it to the lower A arm first. Just run a chain through the spring and down the center through the lower A arm hole (in center of spring), back around and connect it Leave the chain with some slack so that it doesn't compress the spring as the A arm is lowered. It only for safety so the spring can not fly out.
Place a floor jack under and hook onto the inner center edge of the A arm. Jack up a little, remove bolts and lower jack.
When placing the spring back in use a spring compressor to hold it on the A arm. Use a flat plate at the bottom of the compressor that rides against the bottom of the A arm. Then hook the upper end of the compressor to some spring coils about half way up the spring. Tighten compressor enough to hold spring in place.
This is only required to hold the spring until some tension is on it. Don't forget to align the end of the lower coil between the two holes.
Jack A arm up into place (I think that the front pivot needs to be placed into the frame mount first. It is one or the other, the A arm needs to go up at a slight angle).
A phillips head screwdriver can be used to help get the pivot bolt holes lined up. Insert bolts and replace nuts. NUTS MUST BE TIGHTENED WITH NORMAL LOAD ON A ARM. Don't do it while the car is in the air.
With this method each spring took about 15 minutes to install.
HTH,
RBob.
After spending hours with spring compressors, chains, jacks and what not I finally gave in and read the fine manual (RTFM). Son-of-a-gun, look at this, GM method is to unbolt the A arm at the pivot points.
When removing the spring chain it to the lower A arm first. Just run a chain through the spring and down the center through the lower A arm hole (in center of spring), back around and connect it Leave the chain with some slack so that it doesn't compress the spring as the A arm is lowered. It only for safety so the spring can not fly out.
Place a floor jack under and hook onto the inner center edge of the A arm. Jack up a little, remove bolts and lower jack.
When placing the spring back in use a spring compressor to hold it on the A arm. Use a flat plate at the bottom of the compressor that rides against the bottom of the A arm. Then hook the upper end of the compressor to some spring coils about half way up the spring. Tighten compressor enough to hold spring in place.
This is only required to hold the spring until some tension is on it. Don't forget to align the end of the lower coil between the two holes.
Jack A arm up into place (I think that the front pivot needs to be placed into the frame mount first. It is one or the other, the A arm needs to go up at a slight angle).
A phillips head screwdriver can be used to help get the pivot bolt holes lined up. Insert bolts and replace nuts. NUTS MUST BE TIGHTENED WITH NORMAL LOAD ON A ARM. Don't do it while the car is in the air.
With this method each spring took about 15 minutes to install.
HTH,
RBob.
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