LCA Bushings
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 5,144
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From: CC, TX
Car: 1999 Yamaha Banshee
Engine: 379cc twin cyl 2-stroke stroker
Transmission: 6 spd manual
Axle/Gears: 14/41 tooth
LCA Bushings
I boxed my stock LCAs, now I want to get rid of those rubber worn out bushings in them. What does everybody think about these
Thanks
Brady
Thanks
Brady
Thread Starter
Supreme Member

Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 5,144
Likes: 2
From: CC, TX
Car: 1999 Yamaha Banshee
Engine: 379cc twin cyl 2-stroke stroker
Transmission: 6 spd manual
Axle/Gears: 14/41 tooth
they say they only fit 1982-1987 cars but the LCAs didnt change did they so surely they would fit my 1992
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
If they were coustructed as Global Wests Del-A-Lum I'd say go for it. I don't like the idea of running a SOLID aluminum bushing.
Lon
Lon
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 157
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From: Alton IL
Car: 87 aniv vert, 90 Iroc, 87 LT
Engine: LB9, LB9, carbed 305
Transmission: MM5, MM5 conversion, MM5 conversion
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.73, 3.73
pleeeease! if you drive your car on the street ever, you will regret those, pay the extra and get some aftermarket LCA's with poly bushings
Thread Starter
Supreme Member

Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 5,144
Likes: 2
From: CC, TX
Car: 1999 Yamaha Banshee
Engine: 379cc twin cyl 2-stroke stroker
Transmission: 6 spd manual
Axle/Gears: 14/41 tooth
Originally posted by lonsal
If they were coustructed as Global Wests Del-A-Lum I'd say go for it. I don't like the idea of running a SOLID aluminum bushing.
Lon
If they were coustructed as Global Wests Del-A-Lum I'd say go for it. I don't like the idea of running a SOLID aluminum bushing.
Lon
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Thread Starter
Supreme Member

Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 5,144
Likes: 2
From: CC, TX
Car: 1999 Yamaha Banshee
Engine: 379cc twin cyl 2-stroke stroker
Transmission: 6 spd manual
Axle/Gears: 14/41 tooth
Originally posted by 90iroc5spd
pleeeease! if you drive your car on the street ever, you will regret those, pay the extra and get some aftermarket LCA's with poly bushings
pleeeease! if you drive your car on the street ever, you will regret those, pay the extra and get some aftermarket LCA's with poly bushings
Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
From: Alton IL
Car: 87 aniv vert, 90 Iroc, 87 LT
Engine: LB9, LB9, carbed 305
Transmission: MM5, MM5 conversion, MM5 conversion
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.73, 3.73
elaborate...ok......... they will wear faster than ploy, and they will give a very harsh ride. personally i dont care about ride, but longevity.......................they will wear fast on the street!
Thread Starter
Supreme Member

Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 5,144
Likes: 2
From: CC, TX
Car: 1999 Yamaha Banshee
Engine: 379cc twin cyl 2-stroke stroker
Transmission: 6 spd manual
Axle/Gears: 14/41 tooth
ok. how fast are we talking here? how many miles? i can see it wearing out, maybe i need a solid stainless steel bushing???
ride harshness - i dont mind
ride harshness - i dont mind
Thread Starter
Supreme Member

Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 5,144
Likes: 2
From: CC, TX
Car: 1999 Yamaha Banshee
Engine: 379cc twin cyl 2-stroke stroker
Transmission: 6 spd manual
Axle/Gears: 14/41 tooth
Originally posted by lonsal
If they were coustructed as Global Wests Del-A-Lum I'd say go for it. I don't like the idea of running a SOLID aluminum bushing.
Lon
If they were coustructed as Global Wests Del-A-Lum I'd say go for it. I don't like the idea of running a SOLID aluminum bushing.
Lon
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Cleveland, OH
Car: '87 Camaro LT
Engine: 355 L98
Transmission: T56
just get polyurethane, spohn sells them for stock control arms http://spohn.net/index.cfm?fuseactio...&productid=102
they're as stiff as you'll ever need and won't make your butt sore
they're as stiff as you'll ever need and won't make your butt sore
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
If you have ever tried to replace them in stock sheet-metal control arms, you wouldn't be asking this. You would have done the correct thing up front, which is to just put the stock ones in the dumpster, and got something decent.
I have the Lakewoods; they cost very little, are many times stronger than sheet metal ones boxed or not, come with poly bushings, and only took like 10 minutes to put in.... it took me as long to jack the car up as it did to make the swap.
I have the Lakewoods; they cost very little, are many times stronger than sheet metal ones boxed or not, come with poly bushings, and only took like 10 minutes to put in.... it took me as long to jack the car up as it did to make the swap.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member

Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 5,144
Likes: 2
From: CC, TX
Car: 1999 Yamaha Banshee
Engine: 379cc twin cyl 2-stroke stroker
Transmission: 6 spd manual
Axle/Gears: 14/41 tooth
poly is an option that i know about - and am considering. BUT i would really like to know the life span for the Al ones, even if i dont buy them.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member

Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 5,144
Likes: 2
From: CC, TX
Car: 1999 Yamaha Banshee
Engine: 379cc twin cyl 2-stroke stroker
Transmission: 6 spd manual
Axle/Gears: 14/41 tooth
Originally posted by RB83L69
If you have ever tried to replace them in stock sheet-metal control arms, you wouldn't be asking this. You would have done the correct thing up front, which is to just put the stock ones in the dumpster, and got something decent.
I have the Lakewoods; they cost very little, are many times stronger than sheet metal ones boxed or not, come with poly bushings, and only took like 10 minutes to put in.... it took me as long to jack the car up as it did to make the swap.
If you have ever tried to replace them in stock sheet-metal control arms, you wouldn't be asking this. You would have done the correct thing up front, which is to just put the stock ones in the dumpster, and got something decent.
I have the Lakewoods; they cost very little, are many times stronger than sheet metal ones boxed or not, come with poly bushings, and only took like 10 minutes to put in.... it took me as long to jack the car up as it did to make the swap.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
You'll see what I mean when you go to try to change them out.... I'll give 3-1 odds that the old ones won't come out without at least one LCA getting destroyed.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member

Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 5,144
Likes: 2
From: CC, TX
Car: 1999 Yamaha Banshee
Engine: 379cc twin cyl 2-stroke stroker
Transmission: 6 spd manual
Axle/Gears: 14/41 tooth
i have never done it thats why i am asking but you are saying that it is pretty much an impossible task.
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Global West
Find out if the solid aluminum ones you were considering using have any kind of guarantee. Global West claims an average life of 120K miles. I'd consider this on a par with the stock or poly bushing lifespan. Also I really like that they are greasable. They have a grease fitting, so you can inject grease into it at every oil change time.
There is nothing wrong with boxed LCA's. That is what SLP uses. I had no problems removing my old stock LCA's. I DID have some problems installing the new ones. But it was nothing that some all-thread washers and nuts couldn't solve for me.
You can press out your old bushings yourself with a bench vise, cold chisel and hammer. Just use the cold chisel to collapse the core and push it out with a 1/2" drive socket against the core and a piece of tubing on the other. I used a piece of exhaust tubing I had on hand. If you have access to a hydraulic press it will simplify the job. Just make sure to support the opposite end of the LCA when you drive out the bushing. I unknowingly collapsed the LCA slightly and had to use the all-thread to spread it open again.
Lon
Find out if the solid aluminum ones you were considering using have any kind of guarantee. Global West claims an average life of 120K miles. I'd consider this on a par with the stock or poly bushing lifespan. Also I really like that they are greasable. They have a grease fitting, so you can inject grease into it at every oil change time.
There is nothing wrong with boxed LCA's. That is what SLP uses. I had no problems removing my old stock LCA's. I DID have some problems installing the new ones. But it was nothing that some all-thread washers and nuts couldn't solve for me.
You can press out your old bushings yourself with a bench vise, cold chisel and hammer. Just use the cold chisel to collapse the core and push it out with a 1/2" drive socket against the core and a piece of tubing on the other. I used a piece of exhaust tubing I had on hand. If you have access to a hydraulic press it will simplify the job. Just make sure to support the opposite end of the LCA when you drive out the bushing. I unknowingly collapsed the LCA slightly and had to use the all-thread to spread it open again.
Lon
Thread Starter
Supreme Member

Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 5,144
Likes: 2
From: CC, TX
Car: 1999 Yamaha Banshee
Engine: 379cc twin cyl 2-stroke stroker
Transmission: 6 spd manual
Axle/Gears: 14/41 tooth
with a lifespan of 60k miles i would be very happy. the car is not driven 20k a year or anything. i am going to call them tommorrow about a warrenty or a life span estimation. the thing with the all thread is what i was i was thinking too
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