I just got done with my front end. I replaced the front LCA bushings, balljoints, tie rods, drag link, idler arm, and sway bar end links. I used poly urethane where I could. I even added dust boots to where the drag link connects to the idler and pitman arm. The difference is amazing, bumps in the road no longer upset the steering, and it is way more responsive. There is still a little play though.
I am going to make the steering gear box adjustment next to see if it will tighten up any more. Any suggestions from anyone? My next project in the spring will be struts, shocks and springs. Also poly urethane for the rear.

 

Spings and shocks/struts are a good next move.

also, tires are a very important part of handling, make sure you have good rubber under that thing.

 

ive replaced all the bushings and tirerods and whatnot with one of those front end rebuild kits from PST and it was very good for the price and i also had new front springs put in the front and the car is actually level. but i need new front struts so im goin with the KYB GR2 struts and that should finish off the front end for now. but after all that it was very very more responcive then before and i dont hear everything rattlein in the front end

 

My Iroc still wanders a bit more than I'd like it to after doing a complete overhaul much like you did. I will be looking into the steering box adjustment and also replacing the "rag joint" in the steering column linkage to the box. I hear this part can make a difference if it's worn out.

Ed

 

congrats on the steering and front suspension overhaul!

 

It tok the better part of a wekend to do it. And I had the LCA bushings done by a shop to save time. As far as tires, I have BFGoodrich 235/60-14's under the car all around.
Does anyone know how hard the rag joint is to replace? This will also be replaced with the struts and springs.

 

AFAIK, it's only 4 bolts to remove and reinstall the new one. I haven't got to it yet.

Ed

 

Do you have a part number for the rag-joint?

 

I can't find a part number for it, even with a parts manual here. I'll keep looking.

Ed

 

Look for the lower or intermediate steering shaft. The rag joint is part of that assembly. ~ $145 the last I checked (this was at a dealer).

I've also checked the Help rack rebuild kits. The one I tried didn't have the proper bolts. Ended up making some parts to get it to work.

That particular steering shaft assembly is used on a lot of different vehicles. May be able to find a good one at a recycle yard.

RBob.

 

Thank you Sir! I thought it may be a part of that whole assy. I think I'll just look for that Help rack item.

Ed

 

I have noticed that with all the new pieces in and put back together, the car sits about 1 inch higher than before. I know that the springs didn't seat right when I got them back in, but I will be replacing them in another 4-6 months, so I am not worried anout it.
What does worry me is that I did the work by the book(a Haynes and a Chilton) and both told me to tighten down the LCA bolts before having weight on the suspension.
Should I loosen these bolts with the car on the ground then retighten them? If so, would it be a good idea to find an empty parking lot, loosen the bolts, drive the car forward and back about 30-50 feet and "work" the suspension so that the bushings will unbind?
Thanks to all for the advice.

 

Definitely tighten everything back up with the car on the ground, or at least with the springs loaded. Otherwise the bushings will be in a bind.

Also, you need to make sure the springs are seated correctly in the spring pocket in the A-arm. Click the link in my sig for more info and pics of how to do it.

HTH...Ed

 

yea u want to leave those bolts loose so when u get it on the ground u can retighten them. thats what we did with my car at work, after everything was done we put it on the alignment rack and tightened everything and did the alinment

 

Got any pictures?
I have all those parts ready to go on, but have recently done the back (easy) end first.

 

No pics. I don't have a digital camera. But I would suggest that you pull the tie rod assemblies off as a set, left and right. That way you can get the toe in as close to what it was as possible. I did this and when we put my car on the rack for the alignment, the toe in was spot on. As a matter of fact, the alignment was so close to spec we elected not to do an alignment until after i get the struts and springs put in.

 

Anyone else consider making a new steering shaft using these



And this ?

 

Those look awesome! I would love to replace my ragjoint with a metal non-wear piece like that. Maybe spohn should conisder that as a future project