Fixing failed steering gear any suggestions?
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From: Mechanicsburg, PA
Car: '89 Formula 350
Engine: 5.7L L98 TPI
Transmission: 700-R4 Automatic
Axle/Gears: 7.5 disc posi 3.23
Fixing failed steering gear any suggestions?
My steering box has started to leak at the seals, so I need to rebuild it. It is the 2.25 quick ratio box (I think). On another note it has partially broken the frame before and the front end tweeks when I turn it full lock. Now should I spend the money on finding a rack and pinion, or rebuild what I got? Also does anyone sell a replacement for the performance box that isn't too expensive?
Does anyone have a seal kit number for this box?:lala:
Does anyone have a seal kit number for this box?:lala:
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Joined: Jul 1999
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From: Adrian, Mi, USA
Car: 1988 Pontiac Firebird Formula
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
While rebuilding your current steering box may be cheaper, (or, at first glance, seem so....) I have had some problems in the past with simply replacing seals and such in older steering boxes. They still seem to leak for me. (perhaps I am just not holding my face right?)
As for changing over to rack and pinion, I don't know a thing about it, so, I can't really make any recommendation here.
Replacement steering boxes are available, (and come with a warranty.....) at "reasonable" prices from various sources, Summit springs immediately to mind..... As for the frame cracking, welding it up and adding some reinforcement would be a good plan.
Have fun, no matter what you decide.
As for changing over to rack and pinion, I don't know a thing about it, so, I can't really make any recommendation here.
Replacement steering boxes are available, (and come with a warranty.....) at "reasonable" prices from various sources, Summit springs immediately to mind..... As for the frame cracking, welding it up and adding some reinforcement would be a good plan.
Have fun, no matter what you decide.
if your box has worn bushings, repolacing the seals won't help. They will just leak again. i would look for a good rebuilt box but i would stay away from parts store boxes. i made that mistake trying to save money and the first box i got was so overboosted that the car was dangerous. i didn't realize it but the second box i got was also overboosted, it was so much better than the first that i didn't notice until i drove my brotrhers original one.
before you get the new box, you must repair the cracked frame, i learned this the hard way too. The cracking will advance very rapidly if you don't resulting in a much more expensive and time consuming fix. Thsi is a very dangerous condition.
before you get the new box, you must repair the cracked frame, i learned this the hard way too. The cracking will advance very rapidly if you don't resulting in a much more expensive and time consuming fix. Thsi is a very dangerous condition.
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From: Cleveland, OH
Car: '87 Camaro LT
Engine: 355 L98
Transmission: T56
putting a wonderbar on will help prevent cracking in the future. it's basically a steel rod that bolts in the same place the front sway bar does. you could get a box from a bone yard but you risk getting another bad one i suppose, unless it's been tested. i got a quick ratio box from a '91 Z parts car i had. by the way a 'Z' stamped on the box does NOT designate a quick ratio box, my stock one had this stamp and it took 2.5 turns lock to lock
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 816
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From: Mechanicsburg, PA
Car: '89 Formula 350
Engine: 5.7L L98 TPI
Transmission: 700-R4 Automatic
Axle/Gears: 7.5 disc posi 3.23
How do you know the difference between the standard box and the quick ratio one. I poured some LUCAS power steering leak stopper in and it seemed to stop it. Is there a total rebuild kit for these boxes?
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