Help with rear roll cage bars (vert)
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Joined: May 2002
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From: Texas
Car: 1991 Z28 Convertible
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 with Eaton posi
Help with rear roll cage bars (vert)
I'm going to be installing the Spohn 8 point roll cage soon. Everthing will fit fine, says Spohn, except the two rear bars that "T" off the main hoop because I own a convertible.
I am wondering then where the best place is to weld these bars if they can not clear the backseats (due to tonneau cover).
I was thinking of putting a 45 degree turn in each bar and welding them to some point behind the sail panels.
Anyone got any suggestions. Lets brainstorm here.
I am wondering then where the best place is to weld these bars if they can not clear the backseats (due to tonneau cover).
I was thinking of putting a 45 degree turn in each bar and welding them to some point behind the sail panels.
Anyone got any suggestions. Lets brainstorm here.
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Chicago, IL
Car: 2007 Volvo S60R, 2005 Audi A4
Engine: 300HP 2.5L I5, 200HP 2.0L I4
Transmission: TF-80SC, Getrag 6 speed
Axle/Gears: 3.33:1, 3.54:1
I have a 91 T/A convertible and am looking into a roll bar. I have seen a couple convertibles with the rear bars bent in such a way that they begin just as the coupe bars but are bent down to go between the back seat top and tonneau cover. I plan to try this and will err on the seat side as it can 'give' some, whereas the tonneau can't. I also saw another car with bars that went similarly to how you described but didn't have a bend in them but were re-notched at the top hoop mount point to go straight to the sail panel. Hope this helps.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member

Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,333
Likes: 1
From: Texas
Car: 1991 Z28 Convertible
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 with Eaton posi
Yeah...cool...I had thought about having the bars go through the sail panels too. But I think I have an easier way. I have 4th gen leather seats and now (as opposed to the cloth back seat) there is maybe a 1 in space between the top of the seat and the tonneau cover, and the material at the top of the seat is soft and can be depressed maybe another half inch. SO, I'll have 2 bars come off the main hope and run straight back to squeeze between the bottom of the tonneau cover and the seat top. I thought about just bending them at the end and coming straight down OR (for maximum clearance) getting two "L" shaped pieces of metal, then welding each one closest to the shock mount at either side so that the top of each "L" extends about an inch above the top of the back seat. Then the 2 bars from the main hoop can be welded to those flat peices. No tonneau cover cutting neccessary.
Here is a crappy picture::
Here is a crappy picture::
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