Sub Frame Connectors
Sub Frame Connectors
Just wondering if there is a difference in ride quality/performace/strength between weld in SFCs and bolt in ones. Oh and will both last forever? I know I can't weld in the weld in ones cause I don't have a welder and lift, plus I don't know how to weld. So would a better route for me be bolt in? At least I won't have to take the car to a shop and pay an installation fee. Am I able to install the bolt in kind at home? Brand suggestions? Thanks. -89IRO
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
I wouldn't just leave them bolted in alone. They will loosen up with time. With the version I sell you have the option of bolting them in. When it is convenient you can drive to a shop to have them welded in place. This will save you on the installation cost, since you've done most of the work already by pre-installing them.
Thanks,
Lon Salgren
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Thanks,
Lon Salgren
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lonsal, I was wondering if the sub frame connectors that you offer would work with the BMR torque arm. I have purchase the BMR Track pack torque arm and it say it can not be used with diamond style sub frame connectors. I am waiting to get a set of sub frame connector installed before I install the torque arm. I really like the style of connector you offer but don't know what a diamond style connector is. Thank for any help.
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
I see no reason why it wouldn't.
Lon Salgren
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Lon Salgren
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So would any bolt-kit be able to get welded later on? So I can save money by doing th bolt in myself, then after just take it somewhere to have them weld it? Where would I take it to get welded? -89IRO
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Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Take a look at the picture of them. After you've bolted them on take them to a shop with a drive-on style lift. Most muffler shops will have both this style of lift and the welding equipment that should be used. They can also make any minor adjustments that may be required to the exhaust system on the passenger side. You can also download the installation instructions for these from my site to familiarize yourself before purchasing.
Lon Salgren
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Lon Salgren
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Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 244
Likes: 0
From: Seattle, Wa
Car: 89 Iroc-Z
Engine: 305
Transmission: T-5
yea, i got the jegster bolt-ons. i did all the initial work my-self then brought the car to a muffer shop like stated above. the car is tighter, there is a noticeable stiffer ride but not unbearable. definately have them welded as soon as you can for added durability.
Sllt- Did you get the Jegster "bolt in frame ties"? These are the same thing as "sub-frame connectors" right? They look pretty nice. Did you install them yourself then had them welded tight? Was there any drilling required or was it a direct bolt in? It clears exhaust O.K.? (I have the 3", 1 Cat. design of exhaust on my IROC so I hope it will clear it.) Oh, and I'm not real clear on where these sub-frame connectors get mounted to, can you tell me? Thanks. -89IRO
Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 244
Likes: 0
From: Seattle, Wa
Car: 89 Iroc-Z
Engine: 305
Transmission: T-5
sure, yes i got the bolt-in jegster from jegs..of course. they are the same thing as subframe connectors. i installed them my-self in my tiny garage. you have to drill a few holes to bolt them on. you will need to lift up the carpet in the front foot wells. this is where the front part of the connector attach. there are four bolts holes for each side. i could only drill 3 on the passengerside due to the exhaust. i need a pry bar to pull the exhaust down about 1/2 inch to slide the sfc in over it. the rear bolts to the subframe where the front of the rear lca's are bolted on. one hole on the connectors uses the same bolt and hole as the lca and one needs to be drilled just in front of that hole. they clear the 3 inch exhaust fine on my car. i have the dynomax cat and cat back exhaust. i wasn't worried about missing one of the front bolt holes since i was getting them welded on too. i left the interior taken apart so i could hold up the carpet when the front was welded. the exhaust shop did the work while i held up the carpet inside. bring a water squirt bottle just incase of a fire. i had a small one due to small parts of insulation stuck to the floor. the shop will need to grind of the coating to weld so make sure to paint the bare spots when done.
Wow, that sounds a lot more complicated than I thought. How much did the muffler shop charge you? Taking the interior apart would have been one of the last things on my mind. I just thought if would have been a simple bolt up on each end then you are done. Is the installation procedure like you talked about the same with all the other brands or is this just the way you do it with the Jegster? Oh well, thanks for the help. Now I know what it involves when I am ready to do it. -89IRO
Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 244
Likes: 0
From: Seattle, Wa
Car: 89 Iroc-Z
Engine: 305
Transmission: T-5
well the shop did it for free. (friends) i bought them lunch. it really wasn't that hard. just lift the carpet in the foot wells. just take off the door sill trim and the kick panel and pull the carpet and insulation up toward the center console. i'm not sure about other brands. it depends on where they attach to. good luck.
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