Front Bearing Replacement
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 88
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From: Guatemala, Central America
Car: '90 Camaro RS T-Top
Engine: 5.0 TBI
Transmission: TH700R4
Front Bearing Replacement
Hey guys; I'm about to replace this weekend the front bearings on my '90RS (standard front discs).
Does anyone know the bearing and retainer numbers, so I can just go buy them instead of having to tear the car apart to get the samples to the parts store? Is the change a standard procedure, or is there something special I should know about for this car?
thanks for the help...
Thunderboy
Does anyone know the bearing and retainer numbers, so I can just go buy them instead of having to tear the car apart to get the samples to the parts store? Is the change a standard procedure, or is there something special I should know about for this car?
thanks for the help...
Thunderboy
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
The bearings are a real standard numer, something like a "Set 2" and a "Set 6" for inner and outer; plus a seal for each.
Very easy to change. Just knock the old races out of the hub, knock the new races in, drop the inner cone into the back of the hub and install the seal, and slap them on.
Make sure you get plenty of grease into the bearings; and I mean fill up the inside of the bearing, not just on the surface. You don't need any other grease inside there besides what's inside the bearing.
Tighten the nut up to about 10 ft-lbs while spinning the rotor; then back the nut off a half turn or so, and tighten it to 10 ft-lbs again while spinning the rotor; then continue to tighten until the castle nut lines up with the cotter pin holes. You should end up with about 12-15 ft-lbs on the nut.
Very easy to change. Just knock the old races out of the hub, knock the new races in, drop the inner cone into the back of the hub and install the seal, and slap them on.
Make sure you get plenty of grease into the bearings; and I mean fill up the inside of the bearing, not just on the surface. You don't need any other grease inside there besides what's inside the bearing.
Tighten the nut up to about 10 ft-lbs while spinning the rotor; then back the nut off a half turn or so, and tighten it to 10 ft-lbs again while spinning the rotor; then continue to tighten until the castle nut lines up with the cotter pin holes. You should end up with about 12-15 ft-lbs on the nut.
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