Whats the main difference/perfromacne difference between them?

Im interested in gettign a set for the 90 to replace the intrax/koni combo in thier.

 

i don't know that there is a "performance diffrence"

IIRC the weld in kits allow you to adjust from under the hood , where as the bolt ins you have to adjust from under the car. the weld in kits i beleive are alot more work to install (duh, that is why they are called weld-ins )

since i have experiance with neither of them, i may be way off, hopefully someone who has used one or the other kits will speak up.

 

The Ground Control kit I have just mounts in place of the stock springs. You adjust the ride height in front by poking a long 1/2"-drive extension through the opening in the lower control arm and turning the "screw" that's attached to the upper hat. I wrote more about it in a similarly titled thread today.

I don't know how weld-in kits work.

 

got pics? was it worth it?

 

I have the non-weld in weight jack system and I'm pretty happy with them. As for the advatages?....the only thing I could think of is that its completly connected to your k member. So I could think that alittle of the play would be gone. Thats about the only difference I could think of O_o

 

Installing the weld in kit requires you remove the k-member. So the install is alot harder than the non weld in. Only advantages have been said already, a little less play (I'm guessing) and adjustability from under the hood instead of under the wheelwell. I will be doing the weld in setup because I got a deal on them and I'll be swapping the motor out anyway, so it wont be too hard to remove the k-member as well. If I wasnt swapping the motor I would have probably gone with the non weld in.

 

No pics, but I posted more info about it here. If you can change your springs, you can install the Ground Control kit.

The advantages for me since I autocross is that I can get different springs if I want to change the rates (with Pro-Kits or whatever lowering springs, you're stuck with whatever rates they come in), and I can get the car corner weighted for better weight balance.

 

So negative effects from keeping the spring under constant pressure after its been adjusted lower?

Whats the ranges you can adjust it?

 

Doesn't seem to be. The rears clunk more, but it's nothing significant. The springs don't appear to become unseated or rattle around when jacking the car up.

I'm not sure ... I only lowered mine about an inch or so, but it looks like you can go anywhere from a stock/4X4 look to tucking the wheels into the fenders (not sure why you'd want to do THAT though ).

 

If you have adjust from underneathe and have to jack up to do it, tuckign the rims might be kinda hard to do and still get it off the jack, hell i cant get ajackunder without planks with my 2inch drop. Ill get these then in a cpl weeks and seehow i liek em.


Any suggestion on a spring rate for frotn and rear for all best handling as a generl,not taolired to a specifc course with koni reds or yellows?

 

I think it's easier to jack the front of the car up to adjust the ride height. The rear you definately have to jack it up to undo the bottom nut on the shocks. With a 1" or so drop, I can get a jack underneath the "pumpkin" on the rear axle and on the front driver's-side of the car, but I can't clear the dual cats on the passenger side without a few 2X4 scraps.


I went with 650 front and 150 rear ... maybe you can run a bit higher in the front, but since most autox lots I run on are bumpy or slippery asphalt, I don't want to go too stiff with spring rates.

My car is a WS6 and doing a search figured the stock spring rates were 540 front and 200 rear (if anybody has definite #s from a '90 WS6, I'd love to hear them). I also have re-valved Bilsteins from Strano's and a 36mm hollow front sway bar and 19mm rear bar. Konis should be OK with those rates since they aren't far from stock.

 

Who is making the weld in jacks? I haven't been around the board in a while. Last time I was here we were receiving our aluminum strut tower plates from Karl, and I was having no luck getting any info out of Roadtech on their K-members.

Are they making a run of K members with tubular control arms? he was talking about some sort of jacking system within the control arm, which I would prefer not to do up front. Any idea if the weld in jacks are compatible with the Roadtech design?

Thanks

 

The height adjuster / weight jack kits are from Ground Control. The bolt-in kit goes between the spring and the seat on the K-member, according to the descriptions i've been given. The weld-in kit essentially replaces the spring perches on the K-member, for under-hood acess.

The bolt-ins should work with any k-member, while modification and welding (duh!) will be neccesary for the weld-ins.

 

Thanks