Suspension upgrade final stage. Anyone with Mufflex and Spohn T/A?
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Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 1,154
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From: Stillwater, OK
Car: 1991 Formula
Engine: 355 DFI Superram w/ R-Trim
Transmission: Probuilt 700r4
Suspension upgrade final stage. Anyone with Mufflex and Spohn T/A?
Well I finally got around to installing the last few components of a pretty tough driveline. I threw up a pro-built.net 700r4 street/strip with an ACT ~3500 stall and a deep pan. Yesterday was a spohn crossmember with driveshaft loop and chrome moly torque arm. The last things I added for the summer were a spohn drive shaft and telstars with ET streets and a few underhood parts polished by our own Michael Overstreet. I ran into big problems with the Mufflex 4" Ypipe...it just wont work. It's going to be near impossible for any ypipe to fit I think. Can someone show me some pictures if you are running a custom ypipe and a 4" catback? Notes on the install... I had problems fitting the torque arm over the rear end. A quick hint for a fix is to put one tab under the front axle of your jack and pump up the jack to bend them apart. Use a towel to protect your pretty powder coating. You'll need to remove the small bracket in the middle of the trans tunnel that helped hold the fuel lines (just one bolt). The torque arm will interfere with this bracket in it's range of motion. On the 15" telstars, very minimal grinding was necessary on the calipers for the 89-92 brakes. Counterweights on the inside of the rim will not interfere. The telstar rim combo is 71lbs lighter than my Ronals with Khumo 712s!!!! Thanks for any hint you can offer on the ypipe!
Last edited by JMatlock88; Aug 3, 2003 at 09:53 AM.
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From: Maryland
Car: 2005 Subaru STI
Engine: 153ci of Turbo Power!
Transmission: 6-Speed
JMat:
I have no advice. Just wanted to say that I will be watching this thread very closely since I "want" to do what you are attempting to do. The problem is that Steve's crossmember hangs so low that the Mufflex-Y has absolutely no chance of working. I'm curious how you are going to solve this problem. I think that no matter what - you are going to ditch the Mufflex Y and figure out some type of custom setup. I just can't imagine what type of custom setup would give you good gound clearance (except for the one where you notch the front subframes).
Good Luck!
Tim
I have no advice. Just wanted to say that I will be watching this thread very closely since I "want" to do what you are attempting to do. The problem is that Steve's crossmember hangs so low that the Mufflex-Y has absolutely no chance of working. I'm curious how you are going to solve this problem. I think that no matter what - you are going to ditch the Mufflex Y and figure out some type of custom setup. I just can't imagine what type of custom setup would give you good gound clearance (except for the one where you notch the front subframes).
Good Luck!
Tim
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From: San Diego, CA
Car: 87 Buick GN
Engine: 3.8L (231 cid) V6
Transmission: 200-4R
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt G80/ 3.42
I have the Spohn setup also and want to do the same thing too with the long tubes and y pipe. I have thought about using oval transitions and piping from Spintech to go under the Spohn crossmember, but I don't know how well that will work. Just curious where on the crossmember is the Y pipe hitting?
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 798
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From: Powder Springs, Georgia, USA
Car: 1992 Black Z28 Hardtop
Axle/Gears: 2002 10 bolt w/3:23
JMatlock88, I recently installed a Spohn T/A with dual loops, when I installed the 3.5" driveshaft I realized how tight things were getting, the factory D/S practically fell out, had to curse the new D/S in. Then I installed a Mufflex 3.5" catback with SLP 1 3/4 headers so I didn't have the Y pipe issues but DAMN is everything tight. It still scrapes some speedbreakers.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 1,154
Likes: 2
From: Stillwater, OK
Car: 1991 Formula
Engine: 355 DFI Superram w/ R-Trim
Transmission: Probuilt 700r4
Here is the modified spohn crossmember. As seen at 2, the spacer has been removed. At 3, the original mount has been removed and a new piece of the same rectangle 0.125" bar has been added. At 1, the cantliever supports were cut at 45 degree angles. The crossection is needed most at the midpoint and the origin of this cantilever. The new loop is stronger than before because the arm has been shortened, however, some weight has been added. The tubing was faced and ground smooth just like it was originally. This new design will allow the mufflex Y to lay near the horizontal plane and therefore increase ground clearance by at least 1-2 inches. I'll post the exhaust routing as it is completed.
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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,009
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From: Pitman, NJ
Car: '89 IROC-Z
Engine: Canfield 195 headed 358ci
Transmission: TH350, Art Carr 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 3.92 Dana 44
I got this off here somewhere ...I believe its DARCOM's he had a custom y-pipe made.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 1,154
Likes: 2
From: Stillwater, OK
Car: 1991 Formula
Engine: 355 DFI Superram w/ R-Trim
Transmission: Probuilt 700r4
Yep, it's darcom...that is what I have been modeling with my setup. Several of those pics are hanging on the garage wall
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